Love the vid, makes me really want to get back there. Its a track I like but have never managed to really master. Out of interest; springs make a really big difference here and especially if you are not going in hard enough like you mention. If the spring is too stiff and you are not going in very hard the bike will not turn fast enough. Its especially noticeable on the fast left handers turns four and eight because you end up taking ages for the bike to line up for the exit and it really hits your laptimes hard. I had it happening to me earlier in the year when we went because I was new to the BMW and not confirdent enough for the springs recommended by the fast Superstock guys. I went down from a 10.5 to a 10 which I would have actually gone with myself anyhow to start with and it knocked a shed load of time off,
I can't wait to have a go at the track now I'm more confident.
Yes. In fact I am looking up the tools needed to affect 2 changes. Changing springs and change the air gap. (K911's of course would make this easier
)
Setup: Ohlins NIX30 with 10+10.5Nm (10.25Nm springs)
Air Gap: Unknown
Preload: 11 turns
Comp: 10 from max
Reb: 12 from max
My weight is 95kg in kit (at least).
So, It needs to be more compliant in the turns, its too stiff imo. Using too much compression and rebound imo.
But, under braking I smash the forks flat with anything less (it's a reason I don't really attack the braking zones).
Balancing the requirements is always the game.
I was thinking it has to be stiffer springs and reducing the preload/compression requirements but that would seem to exacerbate the issue mid turn.
Now I'm looking at the airgap.
Air gap / oil height, for those that want to know, the gap from the top of the damping oil to the top of the forks, typically a 100mm travel fork will have a 120mm, or thereabouts gap. As the fork compresses the air is forced into a smaller space. During the last 10mm or so of fork travel the air pressure adds enough additional force to the spring rate allow the rider to run a softer spring or damping set-up without bottoming the fork under severe braking or cornering loads.
So what I am thinking is that a 10-20mm reduction in the existing air gap, may better support the breaking and allow the compression/preload stiffness / extension to come down and therefore make the turns easier.
It's what I am going to talk to Perry about anyway...