Suspension Set Up DDC

[CJK]

Apologies as I know this topic has been covered intensively!

Today I finally got around to having a go at setting my DDC suspension on an 2018 model:-

On the rear I set it at 10 mm and the menu says in between 8-12 mm so am I correct at thinking this is about right, I had full kit on and bike was 3/4 full of fuel ish?

On the front I could only get 10mm and the spring was wound out as far as it would go however the manual states in between 10-15 mm so am I right in assuming that my body weight is just in the threshold on the front springs? I weigh 85kg without kit on and ride solely on the road which can be quite spirited at times.

Now my next question is what settings should you set the DDC computer at as a baseline, now I know this is subjective as everyone has individual riding styles etc etc but just an idea of where to start would be greatly appreciated as I have not got a clue and lets be honest the manual does not give you any ideas like it does for the none DDC models.

Many thanks in advance.

 

[alex]

Apologies as I know this topic has been covered intensively!

Today I finally got around to having a go at setting my DDC suspension on an 2018 model:-

On the rear I set it at 10 mm and the menu says in between 8-12 mm so am I correct at thinking this is about right, I had full kit on and bike was 3/4 full of fuel ish?

On the front I could only get 10mm and the spring was wound out as far as it would go however the manual states in between 10-15 mm so am I right in assuming that my body weight is just in the threshold on the front springs? I weigh 85kg without kit on and ride solely on the road which can be quite spirited at times.

Now my next question is what settings should you set the DDC computer at as a baseline, now I know this is subjective as everyone has individual riding styles etc etc but just an idea of where to start would be greatly appreciated as I have not got a clue and lets be honest the manual does not give you any ideas like it does for the none DDC models.

Many thanks in advance.

There's 8mm preload in the system at the top...at 85kg you probably don't need any, I'd wind it out..or have 1 turn at most. If you change preload you must do a DDC CALIB.

0/0 for Sport is not the same as 0/0 for RACE or SLICK.

I am the same weight ish...after 6 day starve...ahem...I ride the roads in USER mode. Sport DDC. With -2 front, Rear Comp +1 Rear Reb +3

 

[JamieMac]

Hi, remember to set sag with the ignition on. The valving is locked other wise.

Rain and Sport are connected. Race separate and so is Slick. i.e if you change settings in Rain, they affect Sport also.

Each separate mode, has a different reaction on the same setting i.e 0Front 0C,0R on rear will feel different in Slick, Race and combined Rain & Sport. They have what's called a different 'knee' i.e. how aggressively the damping comes in or not.

As you say it's down to rider preference, tyres etc. Zero all round is a good starting point. Cold day commutes, I run Sport. Spring warm days, Race. Track Slick. You can mix and match on your '18 in user mode and still retain cornering ABS (ABS Pro). Retrofitted '15-16's, ABS pro only works in Rain, Sport, Race. Not user.

 

[CJK]

Thanks guys for the info I will try the settings that you have both recommended and see how I get one. I have got the user mode parimaters set up so I can still have the ABS pro available as I think for road riding it’s a real good safety net and even more so this time of year when the roads are still far from ideal! When I set the suspension up I had the ignition turned on and plugged into my trickle charger so it would not flatten the battery so all is good there, I also recalibrate after I adjusted both the front and rear suspension.

Hopefully we will get some nice weather soon so I can experiment with it.

My friend has just got a Panigale and they don’t seem to have any manual adjustments that he was aware of, however he could be wrong as like I said he has just got it but if he is right what’s the difference between BMW and the ?hlins?

Many Thanks for the advice

 

[Monners]

It definitely has manual adjustments on the 1299S, you access it via the usual menu. The base model and R have traditional manual suspension. The 1199S has electronic manual adjusters, as opposed to active suspension like on the BMW and 1299S.

 

[CJK]

He has a 1199R, I thought he must be wrong on a bike like that, not to sure what the difference is between them as the ?hlins doesn’t have a adjuster on the top of the forks just a cable?

 

[Oli]

He has a 1199R, I thought he must be wrong on a bike like that, not to sure what the difference is between them as the ?hlins doesn?t have a adjuster on the top of the forks just a cable?

As Monners says the R models have conventional Ohlins suspension, on account of the weight saving and being preferential on a track bike.

The Ohlins semi-active system is totally different to BMW?s DDC.
The former is ?event based?, meaning that stepper motors are used to apply discrete settings based on different riding scenarios e.g. accelerating, braking, cornering (?events?).
DDC, on the other hand, is true semi-active suspension. Solenoid valves are used to make adjustments constantly on the fly, based on suspension movement (using the potentiometer on the rear shock), throttle input, lean angle, riding mode etc. This means that the suspension constantly adapts as you ride, making adjustments every 100 ms or so.

Both the Ohlins and DDC systems have manual preload adjustment, but the damping is electronically controlled.

The Ohlins system allows you to disable the dynamic mode and use the stepper motors as electrical spanner?s so to speak, that allow you to input your own desired damping settings, as you would on conventional suspension

 

[CJK]

How does the BM compare to the ?hlins system and which is better suited to road riding?

 

[Oli]

How does the BM compare to the ?hlins system and which is better suited to road riding?

I can?t give a personal account on the Ohlins semi active system as have no experience with it. However, the general consensus has always been that the Ohlins system performs better on track as gives a more conventional feel and the DDC system is better for road as has better bump management.

That being said, all suspension relies on being well setup for it to perform optimally


- Oli

 

[CJK]

That makes sense my bike lives on the road so looks like the DDC is the one. Now the secret is getting it set up properly roll on sunny days lol

 

[alex]

Ideally get it sprung for your weight. You could run 10nm's

MCT would be the place to go

- Alex

 

[CJK]

Unfortunately it?s around 270 mile from where I live so realistically it?s to just to far to travel, otherwise I would have definitely took it there and got it professionally set up, as I think it?s money well spent.

 

[alex]

Unfortunately it?s around 270 mile from where I live so realistically it?s to just to far to travel, otherwise I would have definitely took it there and got it professionally set up, as I think it?s money well spent.

I am sure there is someone more local to you..whats your nearest town?

- Alex

 

[Timbo s2]

I took mine to MCT two weeks ago, then had a trackday on Sunday. Some machining to the pre-load adjusters, new KTech 10nm springs, and decent fluid, together with a set up. Made a massive difference, loads more feel from the front, and I felt adjustments had a more pronounced affect. Just gotta get more track time now to really dial it in...

 

[CJK]

I?m near Durham

 

[alex]

@kylezx7r of KRG Suspension is not a million miles away...he can definitely respring it. Or there's Reactive Suspension near York.

 

[CJK]

@kylezx7r of KRG Suspension is not a million miles away...he can definitely respring it. Or there's Reactive Suspension near York.

KRG is the closest and Reactive is within an acceptable travel distance, thanks Alex. With regards to the front spring due to it being fully wound out does that mean I need a harder or softer spring?

 

[alex]

Softer.
The bike comes with roughly a 9.5 in 1 leg and and 11.5 in the other. The result is the avg of the two.

9.5+11.5 /2 =10.5nm (10.25 to 10.5 has been seen)

10nm would be enough for you assuming you're on the road not the track.

I run 10&10.5 (10.25) on my track bike. I weigh 90kg in sad reality.




- Alex

 

[CJK]

Thanks that has been a great help, the bike is solely for road use. BMW must spring them for the larger European frame I'm sure my previous Japs were set at 76 kg in the manual. I normally run heavier than 85 kg however I've cut my weight right down lately the problem is all my new kit is a bit too big now more pies needed lol!

 

[BrucieB]

I took mine to MCT two weeks ago, then had a trackday on Sunday. Some machining to the pre-load adjusters, new KTech 10nm springs, and decent fluid, together with a set up. Made a massive difference, loads more feel from the front, and I felt adjustments had a more pronounced affect. Just gotta get more track time now to really dial it in...

Tim, how much did that set up cost you?


I'm still deliberating to carry on with the DDC or fit my Bitubo once I get a fork sleeve.
My mechanics swear by the gen 3 DDC but can't set it up. I've been on track a few times recently and can't say I noticed anything good or bad apart from good tyre wear but I'm not pushing it just yet as still getting back up to pace following accident last year and oh yeah cold track temps.
Looked into the front pot but ain't spending nearly ?500 plus set up when I've got Bitubo anyway but would like to get it set up properly and test it more before stripping it off.
I'm 80kg without gear so don't even know if stock spring will suit but I usually use 9.5 spring (that's as far as I go with suspension knowledge lol)
MCT is within distance to me but guessing he's fully booked at this time of year, anyone recommended anyone for set up nearer London?
Cheers

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