Struggling to start when hot

[sagalout]

Used the S1000RR (2011) for the commute this morning and pulled in for fuel. Went to get back on the bike and it wouldn't start. It basically only had enough battery to turn the crank the engine once, then it died. I left it 20 mins to cool down and then it was fine again.

I'd noticed a few weeks ago a similar thing, where I stalled it and it only just had enough power to start it again.

Is this likely to be just a new battery, or is it something more serious? I can't understand why the bike cooling down would 'recharge' the battery, but I do remember having this with a ZX12R and replacing the battery fixed it!

 

[powders]

Could be your battery or likewise it could be your starter motor
Same kind of thing happened to me on my 11 earlier this year
I got a new battery thinking it was it
Just so you know if it is your starter you can't rebuild it bmw don't sell the brushes or armiture so I ended up buying used on ebay for 80

 

[powders]

Could be your battery or likewise it could be your starter motor
Same kind of thing happened to me on my 11 earlier this year
I got a new battery thinking it was it
Just so you know if it is your starter you can't rebuild it bmw don't sell the brushes or armiture so I ended up buying used on ebay for 80

 

[sagalout]

Thanks. Is there anyway to test the battery? It's basically ?100ish for each, so I'd prefer to fix what's broken. I presume you changed your battery and then it did it again so you replaced the starter motor?

 

[Stephen]

With those simptoms it's much more likely to be starter than batt. As you said why would cooling down effect the battery.

 

[Stephen]

Use a optimiser or similar as it tells u ur battery health. First sign of an issue arising would show on the meter before u unplug it everyday.
Wouldn?t be without one !

I don't like optimates, I find that the battery's become dependent on them if they're left on all the time the bikes not in use.

It's just my opinion of course, but whenever we take a bike in part ex and the owner says the battery's always on optimate, 5 days later it's flat haha

 

[Stephen]

I?ve run optimates on all three bikes since they were new . I go france 2-3 times a year and never had problem , I guess I?ve been fortunate . I wouldn?t know if the zx10 would go dead as not took it out in 4 months. And thectrack bike goes in van to circuit then back and plugged in again .

What do U recommend Stephen ??
I like opyimste coz the meter is spot on

With the alarm on the 2014 model I always had flat battery hence first getting optimate then never had prob again . And that battery four years old

Nothing wrong with them, but not everyday, although if you've never had trouble then why change. I just think of it like most battery's, on (nearly ) constant charge can't be good for it? Idk, that's just my experience with them

 

[Zxcv12]

My 2016 is OE alarmed, it's almost always on. It has 11k miles and is often left for a while unused, up to a month. Never had a problem with it. As far as I know, batteries are a bit like muscles, in that they need to be used and work through a good range of charging states (I could be getting confused with lithium batteries though). I also have an optimate, but I won't bother using that until the first signs of trouble and sluggish starting. It'd keep me going for a bit is all...
I don't commute or do many short hops though so it always has a chance to recharge once started.

 

[Perbunan]

Left my bike in garage whilst on hol with alarm on and came home to find battery completely dead after 16 days without using it, so put it on trickle charge and was ok 2 days later, but after going to work it was flat again after 1 day. Battery is 6 yrs now so I've took the opportunity to go down the Lithium road :fat: and will remember to turn alarm off next time I go away.
Regarding hot start issues this was a well known phenomenon on K1300's and was the result of poor wiring design but didn't affect all bikes but if it did a free harness upgrade was available at dealers. So don't know if this is same issue?

 

[Flyingscotsman]

I would replace battery in the first instance: you can get a replacement from Tanya for about 45 quid https://www.tayna.co.uk/YTZ10S-Enduroline-Advanced-Motorcycle-Battery-P9119.html

 

[bananaman]

Worth a check on terminals 1st ? Similar happened to me with loose terminal.

 

[Flyingscotsman]

Worth a check on terminals 1st ? Similar happened to me with loose terminal.

Oh yes, worth trying the zero cost option first

 

[cobo]

Had the same issue on my old old bike (ZXR250) and it was the battery no question (after much troubleshooting).
If you have a multimeter you can check the voltage when cold, when starting and when running.
I found on mine back then, when it wouldn't start hot the voltage had dipped quite a bit and really slow to climb back up to ~12.4v...healthy battery should bounce straight back to that sort of number.

 

[Flyingscotsman]

If it's a 2011 bike with original battery I would replace it after ruling out loose connections.
Lead acid batteries really don't have reliable life after 2-3 years. Especially true if a bike is left idle over winter.
I budget on replacing my bike battery every couple of years.

 

[Perbunan]

If it's a 2011 bike with original battery I would replace it after ruling out loose connections.
Lead acid batteries really don't have reliable life after 2-3 years. Especially true if a bike is left idle over winter.
I budget on replacing my bike battery every couple of years.

fitted my new Lithium yesterday and found old battery to be original - 2010 !