Kill Switch

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stuartb

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Arghhhh.. my kill switch is on the road out.. the rocker mechanism is really iffy. I can get the bike started, but the switch is not rocking freely in the housing !.. I get this a lot in my rentals with frequently used light switches and 1 and 2 gang sockets.

Any user serviceable parts in there ?.. before I start pulling it apart.. my fear is I can't get her started in the middle of nowhere.. I've just cancelled my extended cover due to lack of any real use or claims... paid 3 years at 40 quid pm plus..


S

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Is the Gen 2 not known for dodgy switch gear and BMW replace them out of warranty?
 
I use Wurth Ultra 2040 which I find is the best I've come across for switchgear, funnily enough I had run out and two cans arrived today in my order. It's formulated particularly for lubricating parts and dispersing moisture.

I'd like to think it's a lube problem, but it doesn't feel like it... anyhow I've sprayed inside the housing, maybe tomorrow will be a good day [emoji3]


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I struggled on OEM to find a part number and price, can anyone help.. need to prepare for the worst.

Cheers.

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the swich gear comes apart quite easily, the bits you move are just plastic rockers, the main work is done by microswitches on a printed circuit board, there is a guy on here that fixes the circuit boards, (did my LH one). but if it's a feel thing, probably worth taking apart and cleaning up.
lh swicth from bmw is about ?200, there are plenty of online parts fiches about to get part number if you need it.
 
If you?re wanting to use the bike until it?s sorted can you not just use the ignition to switch the bike on and off and leave the kill switch in run?


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It's the start and kill switch.. so works both ways...

I was thinking if I pull it apart it might collapse entirely ... which is what happens.

Might leave it till after tomorrow's run out...

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It's the start and kill switch.. so works both ways...

I was thinking if I pull it apart it might collapse entirely ... which is what happens.

Might leave it till after tomorrow's run out...

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I thought the starter button was separate mate


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There is an old thread on here somewhere where I posted the old and revised part numbers for the gen 2 switchgear. Dealer should know what your part number is and if it was the fixed version.

Dealers always replaced both sides, dont know if they will want to do the same again. If it is on its way out I would get it sorted so you don?t end up stranded.
 
if it's the plastic bit - should work by just pushing the micro switch if your stuck
 
There is an old thread on here somewhere where I posted the old and revised part numbers for the gen 2 switchgear. Dealer should know what your part number is and if it was the fixed version.

Dealers always replaced both sides, dont know if they will want to do the same again. If it is on its way out I would get it sorted so you don?t end up stranded.
Agree... 170 quid for a replacement.. your right about superseded numbers that's where the confusion comes in on real OEM... I'll strip it after tomorrow's Highland and possibly Islands Run....

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Trawled and can't find that post Andy, hmmmm I wonder if this would fit, covers Gen 2s (2014)..
1cf343c51da68db9dd2499934eb54d76.jpg
6ea065d0e24753813f03eb2bcaf4594e.jpg


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Got that switch today, anyone know what size Torx key I'm looking for, my T10 is too big
61da474cfc15d8ac37cfb2bdfeb13ad5.jpg
b9488335d6d00eeed2790a1780570b6c.jpg


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It's T9 which will help the next person..

KFM were looking for ?170 plus Shipping which to be completely frank is simply atrocious.

I forgot I had this Faithfull Tools mix of Plain, Phillip's and Torx drivers, luckily there was a T9 in there, Faithfull Tools are not cheap but the quality is excellent.
13c5a0d5d1a9cad5ea632a58246a6628.jpg


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watch out when you reassemble, I seem to remember it's easy to get in the wrong hole! (it might be the bolt through the bars that holds twist grip on I'm thinking about).
 

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