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Over tightened the pinch bolts on my right hand fork leg at the weekend and cracked the leg around the axle hole. Does anybody have a fork leg or the bottom section, internals not important as have ohlins cartridge kits Marcus 07793627376

I have a 2011 that has been in various states of tune, it was a road bike but i've just converted it to track. Initially i had an austin racing system and a rapidbike race, probably the best piggy back ecu you can get as it does 8 injectors, ignition timing, quickshifter and engine braking...

Yes i do

Mine have done the same

Was that saturday? I was ok on zx6r but two lads in the garage were black flagged, one on a panigale and one a 675, i've found msv to be strict in the past but not the others so much

Have you done anything to the bike, i had an exhaust and rapidbike module fitted and it was set up to run so rich i would come home stinking of petrol as well as the bike. If not i would have a look under the tank and inside the air box, the fuel lines run to the injectors inside the airbox so...

R and g yes but if I put it back I'll be keeping the brake parts as they're standard fitment for bikes and not worth selling

I'm thinking about parting with my beloved, only because i cant help but ride it like a c**t every time i get on it! I stopped riding it August last year and have only ridden it 3 times this year but it appears i haven't forgotten how to ride it. The question is do i put the bike back to...

I have them with standard bearings on my 2011, fantastic wheels, the weight saving in in the rim so the centrifugal force is a lot lower so the bike turns so easily, unless you're racing in gp's I suspect ceramic bearings are a con for road use, I doubt they'd anything to the wheel resale value...

I had the same problem and always run race pattern shift. Fixed it as per what Niven said although my star was not worn I had already bought it so fitted it anyway, when I removed the old shift rod/claw the sprung loaded part of the mechanism was very notchy/sticky, I suspect this is what was...

Glad I got in when I did

I just got mine too, only fronts as I have a hotbodies rear tail with integrated LED's, the website says the next ordering period starts 17th Jan? Who's says they are no longer being made?

I use ACF50 without any problems

I use the attack performance too and you can use the standard qs if you want as they reverse the shift direction before the qs rod if you get what I mean

One of my feed hoses to the cooler was very damp around the swage so I replaced it before it got any worse

They do have a fair amount of travel in them before anything happens but excess free play and sponginess could indicate air in the system, as for the brake locking on when a brake master cylinder is in the off position (brake not applied) there is free path for the fluid between the reservoir...

Speak to Harris performance or Demon Tweeks on phone, the kit is unique to the S1000RR, lots of us have them

I get 1800 to a rear and two rears to a front using Dunlop Sportsmarts

Not that clear to see but wire it as follows Brown on the plug is earth, wire all three black wires to it green is number plate light, wire it to the red out of the number plate led wire the resistors inline on the positive to the two indicators, one per side, blue/black wire is the right...

Cut the plug off the existing indicators and number plate light and joined them with some heat shrink butt connectors so i can still remove it by unplugging the connector and did not cut the main harness. Yes you do need resistors, got some off ebay for about ?3, i had to adjust mine with a...