Quickshift issue?

[Big_jim]

Does it happen to anybody else?
I occasionally find neutral when going up the gears, not just from 1-2 but it can be in higher gears.

Wakes you up a bit at 10k revs! It hasn't caused me any harm but I just wondered if it was me not giving it a positive enough shift or if I had something out?

I asked at Bmw when it was in for a service but he wasn't sure.

 

[Niven770]

If you are getting it between 4th & 5th it can indicate wear on the star & the shift rod fork thing. This is a known problem with bikes on the track and race teams change these parts out most weekends.

It feels like it's not going into 4th gear properly or it feels like its jumping out of 4th gear.

Regards
Davy

 

[chorsley]

you have to be quite positive with the gear shift mines been like it from new, i have imroved it with my rearsets and HM shiffter

 

[Niven770]

you have to be quite positive with the gear shift mines been like it from new, i have imroved it with my rearsets and HM shiffter

I agree with this, you need to be firm. If you baby it this is when the problem can appear. For this reason alone I moved to race shift.

Davy

 

[Big_jim]

I'll check what gear im in next time I notice it. Im sure I was going into 6th before.

Cheers

 

[yam-andy]

as said you need to be firm with it, check chain tension too, I had a couple of false neutrals back in October at cadwell, however I tensioned chain a bit more then went to portimao and it was fault less for the 3 days on track!
Niven is it a big job to check or change the star / shift fork?? just thinking ahead about so preventative maint, heard 1 or 2 stories about box self destruction, but never heard anybody report it on here for a good while!

 

[Niven770]

You do not need to do it unless you are sure you are having problems 4th to 5th gear and you are sure you are not babying it. I found at certain places on track it was happening but not at others. This was due to me not being firm enough at certain places, basically flat out in 4th full throttle cranked over and a change into 5th required...I was bricking it and hence was too gentle on the change (and the main reason for moving to race shift, which is the way it should be).

As soon as you are sure you are getting this problem you should change the parts. 4th to 5th must be the longest shift for the selector drum or the gubbings inside the box as this is where it manifests the problem.

Job is simple enough:-
Remove arm on rod at gear shift side
Remove clutch cover (BMW will say you need new bolts as they are stretch bolts)
Remove clutch and basket (tool required) - you may need to turn engine as a big end bearing may be in the way preventing basket removal
Remove bolt and pull out rod
Remove bolt remove star
Replace star
Replace rod.......etc
No need to drain oil.

 

[yam-andy]

cheers for that mate so good info there, was alright last outing, think when I had it I had just bought new boots so was probably just down to getting a feel for and breaking them in! but booked categena for feb so looking to change to race shift for then hopefully save me scraping boots too as won't be hooking under to change up!!

 

[Big_jim]

What does race shift do differently?

 

[Niven770]

Gear change pattern goes from 1 down 5 up to 1 up 5 down.

It's easier to push your foot down than pull it up therefore you get a more positive pressure on the stick when you need it...i.e. changing up gears, not where you do not need it so much....changing down.

There is also the advantage of being able to change up when cranked over to the left as you do not need to get your foot under the lever to do so.

Regards
Davy

 

[Big_jim]

Oww I like the sound of that.
On track on my old gsxr I noticed at mallory I wanted to change from 2-3 going left onto the straight.

How much does it cost?

 

[Niven770]

Well you need rearsets that do race shift, thats's about it. Questions to ask is - do they work with original Quick Shifter - if the answer is yes, that's all you need, if not buy different ones or you will need to get an aftermarket QS, I would suggest HM for that.

There are a few sets on Ebay as I write - have a look - also ask how new they are, you do not want worn, loose ones (unlikely) or you will give yourself more gear shift issues.
I would also recommend you by decent ones, I would guard against Chinese (awaits barrage of hate mail) stuff as in my experience it is of poor quality, will not last and doesn't do the job properly. I have experience of this with chain tensioners from China.
Giamoto / Austin Racing ones (same) are pretty decent - they do a race shift but not advertised so you need to ask.

Regards
Davy

 

[Big_jim]

Thanks for the info mate. Will have a look.

 

[bananaman]

I found that changing up in race shift is far better, BUT, changing down is far worse. It takes much more effort to lift the foot changing down than push it changing up. You will find that a bit hairy when you leave it late changing down without lifting the revs up mid change, this is when false neutrals occur and trust me, you don't want that piling into a turn lol

 

[bananaman]

Yam Andy, just back from Cartagena, if you havn't done it before, recommend 3rd gear all around (except straight) plenty while you learn the circuit.

 

[Midrange]

I found that changing up in race shift is far better, BUT, changing down is far worse. It takes much more effort to lift the foot changing down than push it changing up. You will find that a bit hairy when you leave it late changing down without lifting the revs up mid change, this is when false neutrals occur and trust me, you don't want that piling into a turn lol

This is the reason I returned to road shift after trying race shift on 2 different track bikes.
The 'down' action is the easy part, but I found exactly the same as you, that the up shift had me putting far too much thought and effort into trying to get sorted for the next corner, and some times not getting it right.
I'd love to be able to get it right as it does make more sense, especially with a quickshifter.

 

[bananaman]

This is the reason I returned to road shift after trying race shift on 2 different track bikes.
The 'down' action is the easy part, but I found exactly the same as you, that the up shift had me putting far too much thought and effort into trying to get sorted for the next corner, and some times not getting it right.
I'd love to be able to get it right as it does make more sense, especially with a quickshifter.

Never get it with the s1000rr, unless of course they have improved the box 100% on the new one. Beats me with all this technology bmw produce this substandard item? Honda, Suzuki have been doing it for years. Hey, what do I know, still a great bike.

 

[exalt]

gearbox lets the bike down, even with HM shifter.

 

[bananaman]

gearbox lets the bike down, even with HM shifter.

:Banane35:

 

[Marcus81]

I had the same problem and always run race pattern shift.

Fixed it as per what Niven said although my star was not worn I had already bought it so fitted it anyway, when I removed the old shift rod/claw the sprung loaded part of the mechanism was very notchy/sticky, I suspect this is what was causing it, as for a tool to remove the clutch basket I used a battery power impact gun but only do that if you're familiar enough with them not to do any damage.