S1000rr not going into neutral when hot!

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R6I6Z6A

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Hi Guys, really need some help I got a "old" 2010 s1000rr and for some reason it cant find neutral when hot? when its cold its fine pops into neutral but after my commute in to work around 11 miles it jumps form 1st to 2nd and its a real ball ach to find Neutral, I changed the cable and lube it up before installing and that's in fine, so no stretch or problems there, I hope my box is not on its way out, its done 15k and I brought it at 9k from BMW Pidcock, I think it might need a gear box oil change? I might be wrong? if so has anyone got an idea or diagrams how to do this?

Thanks in advance..


p.s. just when the weather is holding up too erhhh !
 
Sounds normal to me. Try finding N before coming to a halt that usually helps.
 
its normal!?!? I had a yammi before this and never had a problem finding N, do the new bikes do this too? your right in one aspect it does get into N easier if I'm rolling a little?

anyone out there have a explanation for this? its a old bike and I'm sure if this is common people must have discussed/explained it before?
 
You shouldn't have problems finding neutral to the extent you mention, I sure you've checked but your chain isn't well out of adjustment is it? I haven't got a gen1 but someone will be along who has experienced the problem no doubt
 
thanks guys, sometimes I feel like I'm going to snap something if I pull up any harder form 1st.. if there are any ideas out there would be appreciated, I hope its a small minor adjustment rather then a big problem...

I see a guy in Gants Hill (Ilford) every day on a 2016 that sounds like a fighter jet and I really don't want to chop mine in but for that sound alone I might be tempted!! lol
 
One of the main reasons for having difficulty selecting neutral is clutch drag, make sure that you have your clutch lever adjusted correctly. There should be a small amount of free play in the lever to make sure that the clutch is fully engaged but not that much play that the clutch can't disengage.

If that doesn't help then your clutch plates may be past their best and need changing.

Dirty/contaminated oil won't help either.

Also just rocking the bike backwards and forwards while trying to select neutral at the same time sometimes helps and as others have said select neutral as you are rolling to a stop.
 
thanks guys, sometimes I feel like I'm going to snap something if I pull up any harder form 1st.. if there are any ideas out there would be appreciated, I hope its a small minor adjustment rather then a big problem...

I see a guy in Gants Hill (Ilford) every day on a 2016 that sounds like a fighter jet and I really don't want to chop mine in but for that sound alone I might be tempted!! lol

Whatever you do don't take a gen3 out for a test ride!!
 
One of the main reasons for having difficulty selecting neutral is clutch drag, make sure that you have your clutch lever adjusted correctly. There should be a small amount of free play in the lever to make sure that the clutch is fully engaged but not that much play that the clutch can't disengage.

If that doesn't help then your clutch plates may be past their best and need changing.

Dirty/contaminated oil won't help either.

Also just rocking the bike backwards and forwards while trying to select neutral at the same time sometimes helps and as others have said select neutral as you are rolling to a stop.

This ^^

And also check the actuator arm and mechanism for wear- If the actuator isn't converting the cable movement into clutch disengagement fully, you'll also tend to get drag.

If clutch isn't fully disengaging, you may also get grindy/notchy shifts on the move.
 
can you change just the gear box oil on the 2010 or does it run off engine oil? if so how?

how do I check the actuator arm?

p.s. I think adjusting the cable to the recommended nebyma stated would help too.

does clutch plates cost a lot to change?
 
i had this happen a few weeks ago. all i did was adjust the clutch lever with the handle bar adjuster. make sure you only adjust when its cold as there loads of difference between cold and warm free play. i went for about 1.5mm of free play when cold and its worked for me so far.
 
yep, adjust the clutch, you don't need much if any free play, might be worth checking chain as well
 
So this morning I adjusted my clutch lever a little (one full rotation out) and gave my chain a good lub and it seems to slip in to N a lot better even when warm (mind out the gutter boys), I need to keep an eye on it but at least its a quick fix and not a massive BMW bill.

thanks for all your input... I am still thinking about chopping it for a 2016 hmmmmmm!!
 
So this morning I adjusted my clutch lever a little (one full rotation out) and gave my chain a good lub and it seems to slip in to N a lot better even when warm (mind out the gutter boys), I need to keep an eye on it but at least its a quick fix and not a massive BMW bill.

thanks for all your input... I am still thinking about chopping it for a 2016 hmmmmmm!!

Chop it in for a HP4 YOU wont regret that !!!
 

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