The Gen4 DDC thread...vol 1

[alex]

He thinks as-is, that the bike is too reactive, and that this would make it more stable and smoother... I thin k that's what he said. Probably taking my other bikes to him soon, I can double check

The lighter carbon wheels make it pretty flighty and easy to flick. I can see calm it and improving drive/wheelie tendancy would be good.

 

[Ukbmw]

Does anyone know the spring rate for the 2023?
Are both sides still different rates like gen 3?

 

[JamieMac]

Something makes me think it's actually 80/20.
RacePro modes are 80% mechanical whilst retaining 20% electronic control.

I remember watching one of the press launch videos and the German Tech said in Pro Modes, the damping is fully manual except when vertical ie +/- 5 Degrees. When I mentioned this in a previous thread I had an number of queries for the video. I couldn't find it at the time and to be honest it's only when you're upright so matters none. J

 

[JamieMac]

One thing to bear in mind is the Gen 4 is the first bike I've come across where the bottom of the visible fork travel isn't the bottom of the travel. It's 13mm higher on mine. I stripped the forks to check if anything was installed wrongly when I serviced them and it's all to spec. It manifested itself as a similar feeling to having warped discs without the pulsing in the front brake lever. It's a pulsing in the front suspension as it hits the bump stopand your tyre becomes your suspension. I initially thought I'd picked up a small stone in one of the holes of the brake disc ie elongated it as the pad swept past. But putting both discs in my lathe and spinning them up with a dial gauge attached, they were all fine. So you need to add more preload than usual. Now K-tech say I have the correct springs for my weight and I like the supple feel I have on my bike, so with my preload on max front and rear I went the reducing air-gap route. After a lot of testing I found adding 20ml per fork leg and the settings (Pro 1) in the picture transformed my front end. (to be honest you only need to do the Damping leg as the air gap is huge on the other). You just need an under yoke front stand, loosen off the top yoke handle mount as you won't be able to undo the fork caps and add 20ml of fork oil..(I took mine off because of other work) and some sort of scissor jack under the front wheel so you raise the fork caps. 30 mins job. Worth a try...