Rear brake seized

[Mcleod72]

Finally managed to get out on my 16 plate that I picked up last week, (family Holiday) Was MOT?ed just a few days ago and after about 20 miles the rear brake seized. After it cooled down it released itself but after a few more miles the same thing happened.

eventually bled the brakes so that I could home, is the common fault or was it caused by worn pads or under used rear brake.

That said, amazing performance and the full akro pops and bangs which is great.

 

[alex]

When you say seized, you mean you couldn't push the bike?

Have to ask because people have trailed the rear brake before without realising it...foot on the lever, because they hadn't adjusted the position. Being a new to you bike I just wanted to check.

Assuming its not an operator issue then, sounds like the caliper needs a damn good clean. Rear pads out pump the piston out and clean with soapy water + brake cleaner.

- Alex

 

[pof]

Had the same happen to me last year. Just backed the nuts off on the brake pedal and all good. I did need a new set of pads as those warped with the heat

Sent from my H8416 using Tapatalk

 

[r25sti]

i had it few years ago after i adjusted the rear lever slightly too much. tiny adjustment and it was fine after that. i do think there very sensitive on adjustment tough.

 

[Mcleod72]

Hi Alex, yep slowed down for some in lights in llangollen and they seized on. Had to wait till they cooled down to roll her to the edge of the road.

After the disc cooled down for me to touch I undid the bleed nipple and released all the pressure, pads look knackered but I at least got home

 

[mike g]

yep if you adjust the slack like you would any other bike it will bind on after a couple of miles you need lots of travel before it works otherwise it does this - crap brake as well!

 

[mike g]

mine did it again last week, and i seem to have cured it now, the caliper slide pin (top one) had corroded, without taking it apart it seemed ok in that hand / finger pressure was all that was needed to move the caliper / pads. I thought it was ok , but it wasn't. wheel needs to come out to get the caliper off the bracket, but a bit of wire wool and brake cleaner sorted it. fresh red silicon grease and poped it all back together. changed pads for an old set (not burned out) fluid level seems to have gone up a bit.
anyway lever adjustment seems much clearer now, got about 10-15mm before rod contacts, then maybe an inch of actual travel, seems best it's been since I got the bike 6 years ago.
just waiting to bed the pads in. maybe pop some new fluid in and loose a bit of slack too.

 

[Flyingscotsman]

mine did it again last week, and i seem to have cured it now, the caliper slide pin (top one) had corroded, without taking it apart it seemed ok in that hand / finger pressure was all that was needed to move the caliper / pads. I thought it was ok , but it wasn't. wheel needs to come out to get the caliper off the bracket, but a bit of wire wool and brake cleaner sorted it. fresh red silicon grease and poped it all back together. changed pads for an old set (not burned out) fluid level seems to have gone up a bit.
anyway lever adjustment seems much clearer now, got about 10-15mm before rod contacts, then maybe an inch of actual travel, seems best it's been since I got the bike 6 years ago.
just waiting to bed the pads in. maybe pop some new fluid in and loose a bit of slack too.

I had the same issue with my Gen 2. The slide pin had stuck causing binding. Cleaned up with some wet and dry and brake cleaner to fix it. Seems like lubricating it should be a regular maintenence task.