Just tried a search but..

S1000RR  FORUM

Help Support S1000RR FORUM:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

pof

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 28, 2015
Messages
1,301
Reaction score
0
Just on my commute home and bike died, shut off, no dash , sweet fa. Pulled over and turned the key back off and back on again and all good. Never happened before and all good on the 30 miles back home.
Hopfully it wont happen again but if it does i take it i start at the battery and work my way along?

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
Don't the battery terminal come loose?

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Ive not looked yet but it turned straight back on once i pulled in

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
The dash was dead before key off/on?
If so it sounds like the ignition unit issue of the RHS switch gear.
 
Dash was off when i looked down alex. No lights no nothing mate. I turned ignition back to "off" and the back to "on" and it went through the start up pricedure like normal and fired up with the first push of the button

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
Could be loom wires rubbing, could be switchgear as Alex suggests. Hard to diagnose but yes, start at the battery and work back, hopefully it's just a loose wire.
 
Cheers guys. Im not overly concerned unless it happens again

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
Now im concerned. Fired it up this morning, let go of throttle and died (no lights on dash either). Turn off and back on again and it did it again. Turned off and back on again twice more and nothing !!. Took key out and put back in and it cycled through ok and fired up. Journey to work was then un eventful

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
Needs to go on diags mate. Could even be the key barrel module/thingy, they have been known to cause issues reading the key and/or circuitry issues. Rare but not unheard of.
 
I was going to try my spare key soof when i get home as well mate

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
May sound daft but clean the key and any residue from the barrel with wd40. Just to make sure thats all ok.

The test for the ignition barrel involves removing the flat cover, unplugging the 3pin lead and bridging wire across pins 1&3. The dash will stay on for all the time the bridge is on. If the bike never cuts out with the bridge in you have your suspect.


- Sent from Mobile
 
Cheers alex. Had issues again firing it up to get home but the ride was "uneventful". Just tried it again 5 times once home and started everytime. I will clean the key but will try my spare tomorrow morning. If that doesnt work i will take your advice regarding barrell

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
Well ive cleaned the key up (quite mankey) and re lubed the barrell. Ive started it 12 times in a row and it fired up everytime. The key does have some heavy marks on it from the barrell . I really hope this was an easy fix
e2307d8035ede180197ec9ff08501030.jpg


Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
From what you've said it sounds like the ignition switch is at fault, not the barrel but the electrical contacts beneath, the electrics can be replaced on pre 2015 models, unfortunately 2015 onwards the ignition barrel and switch unit are built in(more expensive..)

If your dash is going out then it's not the switchgear at fault.

It's worth noting if you follow Alex's method remember to leave the key in the ignition barrel when you bridge the wires, otherwise the bike will immobilise (because it can't sense the chip in the key)
 
Thanks stephen, i will keep that in mind

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
Might sound like a daft suggestion but have you thought of replacing the battery? If more than a year old then that's what I'd do. Bought a 2013 bike earlier in year & it died in my first ride after collecting it. Replaced battery with new Yuasa & been fine since.

Lead acid batteries really don't last long if they are allowed to become discharged. Unless you are a daily commuter, the bike battery will die. I replace mine every 1 to 1.5 yrs.
 
Last edited:
Might sound like a daft suggestion but have you thought of replacing the battery? If more than a year old then that's what I'd do. Bought a 2013 bike earlier in year & it died in my first ride after collecting it. Replaced battery with new Yuasa & been fine since.

Lead acid batteries really don't last long if they are allowed to become discharged. Unless you are a daily commuter, the bike battery will die. I replace mine every 1 to 1.5 yrs.
It is my daily commute tbf. But you may have a point.
Latest update is it started first time this morning but went to asda before work. Came out of asda and again it messed me around. 3 x fires the dies and clocks off then doesnt turn on at all then fires up fine. Coming home it was good. I took the cover off the back of the ignition and found 2 connectors, 1 had 4 wires which looked dry and clean and there was another with 2 wires , again nice and clean. Again when at home (and after a 20 mile journey) it fired up EVERYTIME so there was no point bridging any wires as i cant fix wasnt isnt broke . Which brings me back to what you are saying flyingscottsman that maybe after a good ride the battery is holding a good enough charge to cause no issues.
I hate electrics[emoji34] [emoji34] [emoji34] .

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
Yes, I would replace the battery. On my bike, was fine from the dealer -who I'm guessing had charged it up. Left it for 2 weeks, went for my first ride, struggled to start but did, then 1mile from home died at the lights with dead clocks and wouldn't start. Fortunately had BMW rescue who jump started it. Then went to Halfrods for an expensive battery, but all good since then.
 
Just got a guy on fb with very similar issues, hes thinking its rh switch gear

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top