Gen 3 2017 Engine Oil

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spraggy

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After some advice....
What's the best (or recommended) non stealership engine oil for my 2017 Gen 3 S1000RR?
I use TripleXQ 5-40 in my car (X5 4.4), but it says it has "Calcium long chain alkarylsulphonate" so not sure if this will bugger the clutch!

I'm coming up to 2000 miles and want to change every 2000 (I do the car every 3000!)

As you can tell, I'm new on the RR (many bikes before) just wanna get some advice

also - best place / type for filter

you guys have been doing this for ages so any help appreciated

Thanks guys

Spraggy
 
Ester based synthetics are the best. They have higher shearing resistance.


- Sent from Mobile
 
I bought a genuine filter, crush washer and 4L of oil from BMW for about ?74 a week or so ago to give mine an interim service. Couldn't really buy from anywhere else cheaper and thought it might be best with sticking to what they recommend. My local dealer was doing 15% off the oil but seemed like a standard thing.

Any reason to not go for dealer oil?
 
Thanks JoepEPS
If the dealer offers a good price, then I'll go for that.......
As per normal with dealers, the same thing is always cheaper somewhere else for the same thing.
Lots of different / complicated explanations in the manuals confuses things, so unsure of what I need

Just wanna know if "off the shelf" oil is the same / better / worse etc.
If I can use the same oil 5/40 in 2 cars and the bike, then I'm a happy bunny :) (I get the car oil in 20l drum! so the same would be good)

Someone must be out there doing regular oil changes with nine BMW oil and happy :)

p.s. 20 Litre oil - Euro car parts - wait for the discount (every 3-4 weeks) and a bargain!!! - 75% off last order)

Spraggy
 
300v 10-40 and genuine filter for me.
Hi Alps
Sorry - is that for a Gen 3?
Manual specs are 5W-40..... I guess you are running something different!
Why the difference - do you know something we don't know about?
You're using a thicker oil at colder temp. please update as to why you differ from the recommended specs.
It'll take longer to get to the correct viscosity
Anyway....
 
Sorry - hit post before I finished.....
So Please guys give me your advice and why you'r outside the the BMW box or stick with BMW oil
specific brands / specs please

Spraggy
 
Engine Oil

I change my oil every 3 or 4 trackdays. I always use an OEM oil filter and Motul 300V 5W-40.
 
Thanks JoepEPS

If I can use the same oil 5/40 in 2 cars and the bike, then I'm a happy bunny :) (I get the car oil in 20l drum! so the same would be good)



p.s. 20 Litre oil - Euro car parts - wait for the discount (every 3-4 weeks) and a bargain!!! - 75% off last order)

Spraggy

Don't use car oil in bikes, as bike oil is designed for wet clutches. Any quality bike oil of correct spec should be OK. Castrol Power 1 is what most dealers use. I use Motul 300V when I change mine.
 
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Don't use car oil in bikes, as bike oil is designed for wet clutches. Any quality bike oil of correct spec should be OK. Castrol Power 1 is what most dealers use. I use Motul 300V when I change mine.

Points for that man, correctly highlighting the issue.
 
Though you used this now Flyingscotsman, last trackday photo your bike was definitely airborne, lol.

7bb534e1dfe9edf8247b05948b7fbdf0.png


JimmyMac



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Hi Alps
Sorry - is that for a Gen 3?
Manual specs are 5W-40..... I guess you are running something different!
Why the difference - do you know something we don't know about?
You're using a thicker oil at colder temp. please update as to why you differ from the recommended specs.
It'll take longer to get to the correct viscosity
Anyway....

Its a race bike. Is what was recommended by people who I trust and know what they are talking about.
 
Why change the oil way before the service interval? With a dedicated track/race bike I suppose I can see the point but for a road bike with a few TDs thrown in every year I only ever stick to the service intervals and have never had any engine issues... My '16 plate has just ticked over 5k miles and is bang on schedule for the annual/6k service in September.
 
Hi Alps
Sorry - is that for a Gen 3?
Manual specs are 5W-40..... I guess you are running something different!
Why the difference - do you know something we don't know about?
You're using a thicker oil at colder temp. please update as to why you differ from the recommended specs.
It'll take longer to get to the correct viscosity
Anyway....

5w40 vs 10w40.

What you have here is a difference when the engine oil is COLD. So the initial lubrication on start up is the 'cost' of going to 10w40. With an engine which is either only used for long trips or high intensity sessions the cold start protection is of lesser importance and so racers tend to go with a slightly less viscous oil for their, working temp, protection improvements.

5w -> 10w isn't the biggest change in the world. 20w would be more likely to cause issues of getting the oil around the engine.
 
Why change the oil way before the service interval? With a dedicated track/race bike I suppose I can see the point but for a road bike with a few TDs thrown in every year I only ever stick to the service intervals and have never had any engine issues... My '16 plate has just ticked over 5k miles and is bang on schedule for the annual/6k service in September.

Hi
Because this is what happened to my car engine after following the service intervals recommended (and yes correctly done, correct parts etc)
since cleaning and servicing ahead of schedule, last check was all clean (BTW X5 4.4 107,000 miles owned from new and still cleaned and loved after 14 years)
I know this will cause all sorts of responses comments good and bad, bad servicing, too long between oil changes (hence the reason for more frequent changes) etc etc, but just letting you know why

And great answer on 5 Vs 10 - well explained, thanks

Spraggy


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