Front wheel spin

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GavD101

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I have had a search and couldn't find the answer I need so hoping the experts can help.

How freely should the front wheel spin? In my case it doesn't spin freely at all. The brakes are dragging on the discs which I am pretty sure was causing the massive amounts of fade at my last TD.

I have already pulled the callipers out, pumped the pistons out and cleaned them thoroughly. They move/push back with ease. I have also done a thorough bleed of the brakes which has helped give a better feel on the lever. (Still far too spongy for my liking)


Discs do not seem warped and with callipers off the wheel spins freely.

Any advice or tips? I am hoping BMW will have a look at but my local dealer is pretty busy and might not get it in before Donny at the end of the month. But if they can't then i will try need solve the issue.

Only obvious things i have noticed is a lot of corrosion on the brake line end where they bolt into the calliper (and when i bled it i noticed small rust deposits in the fluid).

Cheers

Gav
 
I have had a search and couldn't find the answer I need so hoping the experts can help.

How freely should the front wheel spin? In my case it doesn't spin freely at all. The brakes are dragging on the discs which I am pretty sure was causing the massive amounts of fade at my last TD.

I have already pulled the callipers out, pumped the pistons out and cleaned them thoroughly. They move/push back with ease. I have also done a thorough bleed of the brakes which has helped give a better feel on the lever. (Still far too spongy for my liking)


Discs do not seem warped and with callipers off the wheel spins freely.

Any advice or tips? I am hoping BMW will have a look at but my local dealer is pretty busy and might not get it in before Donny at the end of the month. But if they can't then i will try need solve the issue.

Only obvious things i have noticed is a lot of corrosion on the brake line end where they bolt into the calliper (and when i bled it i noticed small rust deposits in the fluid).

Cheers

Gav

Hi is the wheel cocked slightly ?


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When cold, 1 full rotation when spinning hard.
It rotates easier when the wheel is warm.

S1000rr know for brakes drag
 
Last edited:
I did undo the right pinch bolts and axle, gave it a good bounce a few times make sure it was aligned. (Technique i used to do on my MX bikes)

Pads are less than 400 miles on them.

And a hard shove on the wheel, it will only spin less than a quarter of a turn.
 
If everything?s perfect it should spin freely. Not push bike wheel freely but certainly 10+ revolutions. It?s likely to be corrosion behind the piston seals. There are a number of things that combined could cause the problem. When looking at the discs edge on, are the callipers square and centred with the disc. I.e is the disc centred in the throat of the Caliper. The wheel or Caliper could be misaligned.
 
I did undo the right pinch bolts and axle, gave it a good bounce a few times make sure it was aligned. (Technique i used to do on my MX bikes)

Pads are less than 400 miles on them.

And a hard shove on the wheel, it will only spin less than a quarter of a turn.

I will try mine this morning to see how mine spins without even touching the front brake lever since last ride yo check how mine spins buddy [emoji109]


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My wheel will spin with just a light brushing of the pads making contact, they do restrict the spinning of the wheel compared to calipers removed though, how hot does the disc get after a short ride?
 
And a hard shove on the wheel, it will only spin less than a quarter of a turn.

That doesn?t sound right.

You mention spongy feel, I dont suppose you have inadvertently adjusted the brake lever travel to compensate and now the pads are engaging all the time?
 
I will try mine this morning to see how mine spins without even touching the front brake lever since last ride yo check how mine spins buddy [emoji109]


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Undo calliper bolts then apply front brake lever hold lever in then tighten the calliper bolts with hold front brake lever in . In doing this should align the calipers


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If everything?s perfect it should spin freely. Not push bike wheel freely but certainly 10+ revolutions. It?s likely to be corrosion behind the piston seals. There are a number of things that combined could cause the problem. When looking at the discs edge on, are the callipers square and centred with the disc. I.e is the disc centred in the throat of the Caliper. The wheel or Caliper could be misaligned.

I will double check but i am pretty sure they were central. Interesting what you said about the corrosion, could explain the particles of rust in the fluid.

And hearing everyone else's wheels spinning freely, i would confirm mine has an issue haha.
 
I will double check but i am pretty sure they were central. Interesting what you said about the corrosion, could explain the particles of rust in the fluid.

And hearing everyone else's wheels spinning freely, i would confirm mine has an issue haha.

Slight misunderstanding. The corrosion I?m speaking about is oxidisation you get from salt water getting behind the seals onto the non anodised bore of the clipper. See pic. This pushes the seal out and stops the pistons rocking back away from the back of the pad. Rust in the fluid is rare nowadays as the complete braking system is alloy to PTFE brake line centres. Not sure where that could be coming from. As long as it doesn?t reappear I wouldn?t worry.
 

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Undo calliper bolts then apply front brake lever hold lever in then tighten the calliper bolts with hold front brake lever in . In doing this should align the calipers


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Ah good shout! I will give that a go. What about the axle, should that be torqued to a specific setting?

Slight misunderstanding. The corrosion I?m speaking about is oxidisation you get from salt water getting behind the seals onto the non anodised bore of the clipper. See pic. This pushes the seal out and stops the pistons rocking back away from the back of the pad. Rust in the fluid is rare nowadays as the complete braking system is alloy to PTFE brake line centres. Not sure where that could be coming from. As long as it doesn?t reappear I wouldn?t worry.

Got you. That would make sense and i thought the same about rust in brake lines. The bike is only a couple of years old and only been used in the dry (Mostly). It is also under warranty still so if i cannot get it sorted i will have BMW take a proper look. I think they are getting bored of it as it's been back a few times now with warranty issues.
 
I had the same issue when I used goldfren s33 pads. My wheel would barely spin, I removed the anti squeal backing plate and that seemed to sort it.
 
Ah good shout! I will give that a go. What about the axle, should that be torqued to a specific setting?



Got you. That would make sense and i thought the same about rust in brake lines. The bike is only a couple of years old and only been used in the dry (Mostly). It is also under warranty still so if i cannot get it sorted i will have BMW take a proper look. I think they are getting bored of it as it's been back a few times now with warranty issues.

Torque setting is in the back of your service book .front axle is 100nm I believe but somebody will confirm that on here [emoji106]


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Torque setting is in the back of your service book .front axle is 100nm I believe but somebody will confirm that on here [emoji106]


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Sorry mate front axle torque setting is 50nm my friend and rear axle is 100nm[emoji109]


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Sorry mate front axle torque setting is 50nm my friend and rear axle is 100nm[emoji109]


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These settings are for the generation 2 from 2012-14


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Does the bike have an aftermarket brake lever?
Some levers use a different pushrod to OE.If OE pushrod is used with some aftermarket levers,it can cause the brakes to bind.
Try removing the pinch bolt from the lever to see if the wheel spins freely.
 

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