tricky1964
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Front wheel spin
- Thread starter GavD101
- Start date
Help Support S1000RR FORUM:
Had this with my gen1&3. Cleaned spotless and would barely get a full rotation, off track spun freely. Only way I could sort it was with new pistons and seals, even then it wouldn't take long to revert back.
tricky1964
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Mind you, they went back easy enough when I had a head shake !
Oh joys! Well if that is the case then it has a few months left on warranty so I'd try and claim it if i can haha.
In regards to levers/MC they are all OE. But i am thinking of changing the MC to a Galespeed or Brembo.
I also just undone the callipers, put the brakes on to centre them correctly. Didn't make a difference unfortunately. I am now leaning towards there are issues with the pistons.
r25sti
Well-known member
is your wheel in the right way round, easy to reverse but normally only like spinning the right way round. in my experience. should be direction arrow on spoke
Yeah that is correct, double checked. The next thing i am going to do is check the axle torque to make sure it hasn't been cranked up too much. However i cannot see that being an issue as it was ok prior to lockdown it was when it was sat at the dealer for 6 weeks it seems to be where the problems started.
IMORTAL_Indian
Well-known member
ABS Sensor is not touching the ring is it... (1st hand experience)...
saying that, I changed calipers (nearly new)
GEN 3 torques
Front Pinch bolts (19Nm)
Front calipers (38Nm)
Front Axle Nut (50Nm)
I had a spongy 1st handful, ended up doing a ABS Pump flush. Brakes sorted now, however, still not a great free spin when on the 1jac. maybe 1.5 rotations as pads are making contact.
saying that, I changed calipers (nearly new)
GEN 3 torques
Front Pinch bolts (19Nm)
Front calipers (38Nm)
Front Axle Nut (50Nm)
I had a spongy 1st handful, ended up doing a ABS Pump flush. Brakes sorted now, however, still not a great free spin when on the 1jac. maybe 1.5 rotations as pads are making contact.
Last edited:
1-1.5 rotations is normal.
r25sti
Well-known member
also do you use under fork stand as when the wheel is removed it can cause miss alignment, the trick is to never undo the l/s fork pinch bolts. if you have then it may need re-alining
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tricky1964
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Too true only remove axle from r/side has quoted in the service book manual [emoji122]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My stands are the under fork type. I have one for the headstock as well but that has a half built old GSXR 600 on it at the moment. Pinch bolts have only been undone on the R/S. I read taking out the L/S bolts is a messy slope of alignment you do not want to go down.
Gixermogs
Well-known member
Agreed
Thanks for all the advice. I?ve got it booked in with Bahnstormer. But it?s cutting it fine with my TD at Donny on the Saturday (27th). So I think I?ll be reading all through this thread again and go through various things to see if I can make them slightly better.
Question. There?s no air in the callipers or MC but if there was air in the ABS system could that cause issues?
Question. There?s no air in the callipers or MC but if there was air in the ABS system could that cause issues?
Can't really compare if your calipers are non standard.
- Alex
- Alex
Update on "Brake Gate". Good news we have some free spin back. Fairly easy push will give me 1 and a half rotations. (I was getting a quarter before, even when hot) I had a couple of options to try before i pulled the callipers off again and "popped" the pistons out to give them a thorough clean.
First check the axle torque, yeah that was way more than 50nm! I struggled to undo the thing even with a nice long bar. (Last time it was off was when the new tyres were fitted) Before i torqued it up to spec, i left the R/S bolts lose and axle and gave the front end a good old bounce to make sure everything settles into position. Torqued the axle and bolts to the exact specs and the wheel spun a lot freer but still needed some effort, got about half a turn.
Next was bleeding the ABS pump, i don't have a GS911. But i read on here from another user (Thank you for the tip btw) that if you stick the bike into Rain mode it activates the ABS with less effort than the other rider modes. I went out for half an hour or so hitting the front and rear brake make sure the ABS kicks in. Strangely the ABS light never flashed once, i dont know if it is meant to? Either way i could hear the pump and feel it engage.
I stuck the bike back on the stands and bled the MC again. Probably used two full reservoirs of fluid. A bit of air came out..a few large bubbles, not a loads but enough i think to cause problems. By the time I had finished the brakes had cooled down. Gave the front wheel a spin and got 1 and half rotations with not much effort. I think i will class that as a win.
The lever feel is still a bit spongy but i just think that is the trait of the RR and also me wanting a nice solid feel which i won't get from the stock MC. But the main thing is the front is dragging which is why i had such a bad issue with brake fade.
Anyway, thanks for all the helpful tips on this thread we managed to sort the issue.
First check the axle torque, yeah that was way more than 50nm! I struggled to undo the thing even with a nice long bar. (Last time it was off was when the new tyres were fitted) Before i torqued it up to spec, i left the R/S bolts lose and axle and gave the front end a good old bounce to make sure everything settles into position. Torqued the axle and bolts to the exact specs and the wheel spun a lot freer but still needed some effort, got about half a turn.
Next was bleeding the ABS pump, i don't have a GS911. But i read on here from another user (Thank you for the tip btw) that if you stick the bike into Rain mode it activates the ABS with less effort than the other rider modes. I went out for half an hour or so hitting the front and rear brake make sure the ABS kicks in. Strangely the ABS light never flashed once, i dont know if it is meant to? Either way i could hear the pump and feel it engage.
I stuck the bike back on the stands and bled the MC again. Probably used two full reservoirs of fluid. A bit of air came out..a few large bubbles, not a loads but enough i think to cause problems. By the time I had finished the brakes had cooled down. Gave the front wheel a spin and got 1 and half rotations with not much effort. I think i will class that as a win.
The lever feel is still a bit spongy but i just think that is the trait of the RR and also me wanting a nice solid feel which i won't get from the stock MC. But the main thing is the front is dragging which is why i had such a bad issue with brake fade.
Anyway, thanks for all the helpful tips on this thread we managed to sort the issue.
