Winter lay up
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Ive always fired it up to temperature occasionally
You can cause more damage than good with firing up and not properly running.
When the exhaust cools in a damp/humid environment you literally suck water into it and the engine. This can accelerate corrosion.
Personally I'd run the tank to nearly empty. Make sure it was very hot and bothered on its last run out, really hot oil will burn off any condensate in the block before storage. Stick it up on front/rear paddock stands (wheels off ideally, stored off the ground). Take out the battery. Spray liberally with ACF-50. Stick a cover on it...and walk away.
If you have to store and can't, like Pof, carry on riding!
When the exhaust cools in a damp/humid environment you literally suck water into it and the engine. This can accelerate corrosion.
Personally I'd run the tank to nearly empty. Make sure it was very hot and bothered on its last run out, really hot oil will burn off any condensate in the block before storage. Stick it up on front/rear paddock stands (wheels off ideally, stored off the ground). Take out the battery. Spray liberally with ACF-50. Stick a cover on it...and walk away.
If you have to store and can't, like Pof, carry on riding!
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DaveS1000RR
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Mines stored now in one of these: www.vac-bag.co.uk
The tank is filled to the brim and battery is on an optimate 3. I cleaned her to as new condition and she will come out looking as new when she's ready. I won't be turning her on till she's back on the road, and then she will get a full service.
The tank is filled to the brim and battery is on an optimate 3. I cleaned her to as new condition and she will come out looking as new when she's ready. I won't be turning her on till she's back on the road, and then she will get a full service.
Same here, done this for years and never had any issues
I used to fire up my K6 1000 every month during winter and run it up to temp, not convinced it did it much good. Hot bike in a cold garage it was often wet with condensation . I just fancy turning my BMW over to move the oil round the engine without putting fuel into the bores. So far this year the bike hasn't had any condensation on it.
Same here mine is in a vac bag gave it a good clean covered her with acf-50 run tank low of fuel and ran fuel stabilizer through the injectors removed battery and walked away.
Mine has the optimate on to look after the battery and I run the engine for just 20 seconds or so every 3 weeks. Just enough time to get oil up into the head and around the camshafts and cylinder bores but not long enough to partially warm the engine and cause condensation and therefore acid corrosion. I also plug the exhaust can with a rag after the engine start. I'm less worried about the fuel in the tank so don't drain it and more concerned about the moisture causing internal corrosion.
On a Lycoming aircraft engine I care for, I do the same run procedure plus I have fitted an air dryer system to circulate dry air though the breather and out of the dipstick tube, again with the exhausts stacks plugged airtight. You can knock up this system for a few quid.
On a Lycoming aircraft engine I care for, I do the same run procedure plus I have fitted an air dryer system to circulate dry air though the breather and out of the dipstick tube, again with the exhausts stacks plugged airtight. You can knock up this system for a few quid.
Bore washing ?
JimmyMac
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Am I wrong in thinking the bmw has an ally tank.?
There seems to be polar advice on this thread regarding fuel in the tank when storing the bike, some state to leave it nearly empty and others to fill it right up. What is the logic behind both ideas?
TBH I'd said remove cause I would want to fill up with fresh once it's pulled out of hibernation.
The tank is not magnetic, thus it's non-ferrous, corrosion is improbable. But that doesn't mean everything in the tank is the same.
The tank is not magnetic, thus it's non-ferrous, corrosion is improbable. But that doesn't mean everything in the tank is the same.
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DaveS1000RR
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I brim it on the basis that it won't rust if there is fuel in it. No air equals no water to rust with. We have fuel in our tabks all the time and they don't rust!
Empty 'ish - Condensation (from the air) in the tank would sink to the bottom of the fuel and rust the bottom of the tank (only if air was also present to allow oxidisation). If the tank is aluminium then it is not relevant.
Fill it up - stops the above happening, but then you can end up with 'old' fuel if left for a long period of time (fuel goes off eventually).
All depends on the cleanliness of the inside of the tank, the seal of the cap, the fuel, the conditions the bike is stored. I store my HP4 in a dry garage over winter with sufficient insulation and heating to avoid freezing temperatures and have never had any issues leaving the tank near empty for a few months over winter. I would usually start it up every month and let it run for 5 minutes up to temp for a while. I have also never experienced 'old' fuel from it sitting in the tank for a while, so tbh, either way will be fine IMO.
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