Re: Torque Wrench
Hi thanks for the tip, I didn't know this. What is the reasoning behind zeroing afterwards.
Hi thanks for the tip, I didn't know this. What is the reasoning behind zeroing afterwards.
Hi thanks for the tip, I didn't know this. What is the reasoning behind zeroing afterwards.
I've been doing mine wrong then, I always unwind mine to the >I< setting which I think is below zero.
Its easy Loupe. I'd show you but its a bit of a trek to get to you!!Never used one in my puff so that's really helpful. Thanks!
As said before, it's only really to change my wheels but there's a few things that need to be the correct torque according to the handbook.
I thought wheel change was straight forward but I've to watch wheel sensors and only take out wheel bolts from one side etc. I'm nervous now lol
Its easy Loupe. I'd show you but its a bit of a trek to get to you!!
If you want the best then go for Snap on. I bought a Lidl special to deal with the larger Torques (anything over 60nm) and a halfords professional for everything else. The BMW wheels are easy to deal with as they have captive spacers (so the wheel is easy to locate). Just take your time with it. Hot tip for the front is like in the manual, wiggle the callipers gently from side to side to open the pads slightly. Also a good idea to put anything you take off in a container, I use old chinese takeaway pots, ideal for bolts and stuff.
For the rear if you put boards under the wheel so they are just under the tyre it helps line up when putting the wheel back, and saves having to try to support the weight of it as well.
I have the torque settings for both wheels for my 2 bikes on the wall of the garage so I don't then have to mess around finding the page in the manual.
Its easy Loupe. I'd show you but its a bit of a trek to get to you!!
If you want the best then go for Snap on. I bought a Lidl special to deal with the larger Torques (anything over 60nm) and a halfords professional for everything else. The BMW wheels are easy to deal with as they have captive spacers (so the wheel is easy to locate). Just take your time with it. Hot tip for the front is like in the manual, wiggle the callipers gently from side to side to open the pads slightly. Also a good idea to put anything you take off in a container, I use old chinese takeaway pots, ideal for bolts and stuff.
For the rear if you put boards under the wheel so they are just under the tyre it helps line up when putting the wheel back, and saves having to try to support the weight of it as well.
I have the torque settings for both wheels for my 2 bikes on the wall of the garage so I don't then have to mess around finding the page in the manual.
Thanks Stuart, I appreciate the pics and info on the wrenches.Sorry Loupe 3/8th drive is a Normex 5 to 25 nm bigger one is Silverline.. 1/2 drive 28 to 210 nm... The smaller one i paid 30 bangers for larger one bout same..its all youll need man
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stu's phone
Thanks Stuart, I appreciate the pics and info on the wrenches.
As you say, I'm not looking to be a MOTO GP mechanic, just something to use that's half decent.
ma wee granny & papa called it a poke, never new what they meant till they explained haha brings back memoriesSo im lubing and adjusting my chain yesterday.... gets my 1/2 inch drive torque wrench out of the box... i keep it wrapped in the polythene bag it came with..... ******* crash... it slipped rite out of the poly bag and hit the deck... I was raging.... I call this the slippy poke syndrome... for the non scots on here a poke is slang for a bag of some sorts...Just thought id quickly point that out in case you thought I was talking about something else... gigiteeeestu's phone
ma wee granny & papa called it a poke, never new what they meant till they explained haha brings back memories
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