GixxerChuck
Forum Vendor
So get to the finish line of the 100k (99500) and believe the starter motor clutch as gone. Can anyone advise on difficulty to replace or repair
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Starter clutch
- Thread starter GixxerChuck
- Start date
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Can't help - but chapeau on your mileage/seat time!
Sorry you have done 99k on a gen 3 RR?
WOW!
WOW!
Suggest you have a look at the K46 Workshop manual for some some of guide to degree of difficulty? I found this on YouTube - turn the sound off as it is just ridiculous music and the writing captions look as though it is SE Asian (apologies if I got it wrong) - if the video is as the title suggests, it gives you a visual indication of where the starter clutch is and what might be involved - in the stator housing on the LHS of the bike.
A funny aside - I changed the stator on my beloved 2005 Triumph Daytona 955i last year - it stays with me as my first bike and I shall be cremated lying across that and my K46. When I went to replace the new stator over the magnetic ring, I swear that there was a shift in the space-time continuum and that a gravitational wave spread out in a ripple from my garage because a massive attractive force between the stator in my hand (probably 2m away at the time - and I'm not exaggerating....) and the place where it was to be returned to, suddenly took over and trapped my fingers holding the stator against the sharp metal edges of the magnetic housing on the bike - I was bloodied and let out a bucket load of curses. Feck my Old Boots it was a very powerful attractive force between stator and its magnetic ring housing. I really winced with the memory when I saw a similar stator set-up on this video
A funny aside - I changed the stator on my beloved 2005 Triumph Daytona 955i last year - it stays with me as my first bike and I shall be cremated lying across that and my K46. When I went to replace the new stator over the magnetic ring, I swear that there was a shift in the space-time continuum and that a gravitational wave spread out in a ripple from my garage because a massive attractive force between the stator in my hand (probably 2m away at the time - and I'm not exaggerating....) and the place where it was to be returned to, suddenly took over and trapped my fingers holding the stator against the sharp metal edges of the magnetic housing on the bike - I was bloodied and let out a bucket load of curses. Feck my Old Boots it was a very powerful attractive force between stator and its magnetic ring housing. I really winced with the memory when I saw a similar stator set-up on this video
I have a K46 Haynes book going spare
GixxerChuck
Forum Vendor
So after trying new bearings ended up with a second hand one from Phil Crowe. Sorted the starting but now have charging issue. Battery loses charge. Swear she is scared of hitting 100k 
Just trying to think this through with you. I'm no expert but have had similar experiences on other bikes.
1. Battery check. Charge the battery overnight. Then measure battery voltage across the terminals with a multimeter with no load , then switch on ignition and measure, then measure whilst you crank engine, then measure whilst running at 2k revs. Post all four results on here afterwards.
2. Stator output check. Put the ground (black coloured) probe of your multimeter, now set to measure resistance, to any ground source (clean metal body work or earthing point). Attach the positive probe to each of the terminals in the stator's electrical connector individually (there are three to check). The reading should show Overloaded or OL. If any of the readings shows any resistance, the stator has failed and must be replaced.
3. Rectifier check - To check the rectifier, connect the meter leads to the bike's battery as it's running. The reading should not be higher than 14.5 volts or lower than 13.5 volts. If the reading is higher, this means the battery is overcharged and you may need to replace the rectifier.
4. If there are connectors between the stator and the regulator, check that the wires to the connectors are soldered and not press fitted, big charging losses with loose wires to the connectors and even a potential fire hazard.
5. Is there any load on the battery when the ignition is switched off at all? Sat Nav, alarm etc?
6. Check that the battery terminals are cleaned on both surfaces and nice and tight - we've all done it.
1. Battery check. Charge the battery overnight. Then measure battery voltage across the terminals with a multimeter with no load , then switch on ignition and measure, then measure whilst you crank engine, then measure whilst running at 2k revs. Post all four results on here afterwards.
2. Stator output check. Put the ground (black coloured) probe of your multimeter, now set to measure resistance, to any ground source (clean metal body work or earthing point). Attach the positive probe to each of the terminals in the stator's electrical connector individually (there are three to check). The reading should show Overloaded or OL. If any of the readings shows any resistance, the stator has failed and must be replaced.
3. Rectifier check - To check the rectifier, connect the meter leads to the bike's battery as it's running. The reading should not be higher than 14.5 volts or lower than 13.5 volts. If the reading is higher, this means the battery is overcharged and you may need to replace the rectifier.
4. If there are connectors between the stator and the regulator, check that the wires to the connectors are soldered and not press fitted, big charging losses with loose wires to the connectors and even a potential fire hazard.
5. Is there any load on the battery when the ignition is switched off at all? Sat Nav, alarm etc?
6. Check that the battery terminals are cleaned on both surfaces and nice and tight - we've all done it.
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I’ve done them on Ducati’s. Not really that difficult. 
GixxerChuck
Forum Vendor
Ended up getting a stator from Phil Crowe as well. No resistance showing when measuring across the stator terminals. Now all back and up and running.
