slick

[masho46]

Guys anyone ride there RR in slick on the roads,if so does that mean the suspension is harder as the bike assumes it's on track.I want to knock the traction control back a bit so I can hoist a couple of wheelies,which mean's slick mode if I'm reading the book right.

 

[GixxerChuck]

I ride in user mode. Still gives you full control of TC -7 to +7 same as slick mode. Suspension can be sorted for each mode separately for rear compression and rebound damping and front compression damping (rebound not available on front). You can then also set ABS, DDC and engine mode

 

[masho46]

I ride in user mode. Still gives you full control of TC -7 to +7 same as slick mode. Suspension can be sorted for each mode separately for rear compression and rebound damping and front compression damping (rebound not available on front). You can then also set ABS, DDC and engine mode

Thanks for the reply mate need to speak to someone well versed with suspension it's not my strong point fiddling around with it.

 

[mibridger]

I run user mode on the road.

I tend to use the race throttle setting as I like having the engine braking on the road.

For suspension, I use sport as I find the race and slick setting too hard for the road.

The great thing about user mode is you can choose any combination you like.

fyi the front dmp setting does change compression and rebound damping together, unless you fit the 2D sensor, then you can set comp and reb separately.

 

[Billo01]

I ran slick mode for first time last Sunday, there's a route on the way home I take to finish the ride off that has rise in the road and is certain to get the front wheel off the road and the rear if I accelerate hard enough. I managed to get the front up this time and felt the back go light but didn't leave the road, I didn't get any TC intervention according to the display. Should I have got any TC in slick mode?

I've not read the book in detail, in slick mode what does the big fat zero for DTC indicate in the centre of the display?

 

[oldwobbler]

mibridger - that was my understanding of the front damping too.

 

[fast_ryan]

Riding Modes

I generally just use Rain and Sport modes on the road and save Slick and User modes for trackdays.

DDC is an exceptionally good system but one that requires a bit of time to understand its nuances. As standard the front forks have the compression and rebound stages combined to give you a simplified menu option of damping. The DDC system is still altering these stages but just doing it in a different way to traditional suspension which in most cases separates them. The result is a series of damping options with values ranging from +7 to -7 which you need to experiment with in each riding mode. I personally opted for the 2D sensor as my bike spends the majority of its time on track so I wanted to the additional level of adjustability. If I was predominantly riding on the road with only the occasional trackday I would have more than likely remained with the standard system. The beauty of the DDC system is its simplicity and the speed in which it allows you to make adjustments provided that you have a basic grasp of the concepts of rebound, compression and preload. The best advice is to adjust one aspect at a time and record what works for you and what doesn't. Suspension setup is all about understanding what the bike is preventing you from doing and making changes accordingly.

With DDC equipped models you can only adjust two variables on the front suspension; damping via the setup menu and preload via the adjuster at the top of the right fork leg. The DDC system has been designed in such a way that rebound and compression is combined and adjusted in electronic increments. These increments, or values, are then depicted on the dash as +7 to -7. When you therefore increase or decrease damping this is translated into a harder or softer feeling in the front forks. Traditional suspension in the form of a cartridge kit, like those available from ?hlins or K-Tech, separates the rebound and compression stages of the suspension. This is generally reflected by having adjusters on the top of the forks with rebound on the left and compression on the right. Therefore you can adjust the two stages independently from one another in addition to fork preload. On standard equipment suspension the adjusters are located differently; with compression normally located at the bottom of the fork leg and rebound at the top in addition to preload.

With traditional suspension you have the ability to adjust all three variables depending on how the bike is reacting beneath you and identifying what it is preventing you from doing. With DDC you can still do this but the only mechanical adjustment at the front you can make is to preload. BMW uses a very clever algorithm which combines rebound and compression so when you alter the damping levels via the dash you are in fact altering both stages; just not independently of one another. The rear suspension is slightly different as it is equipped with a potentiometer which allow for adjustment of rebound and compression electronically by measuring suspension travel. By fitting a 2D front fork travel sensor it then allows the same adjustment as the rear and effectively replicates what you can do with traditional suspension. Instead of adjusting and counting the 'clicks' in and out you are selecting electronic increments.

The key to adjusting DDC is to accurately set up front and rear preload by using the mechanical adjusters. In doing so the DDC system can then calculate accurately how the suspension is reacting giving you the rider the ability to adjust it to suit your needs. Once preload is set up you then need to experiment through a process of trial and error in order to find what setting works best for you. You need to do this in each of the riding modes as the electronic parameters for each are significantly different.

The DDC system needs to be setup in each riding mode. Rain and Sport modes have parameters that overall make the bike feel softer in general whereas Race mode has much more dynamic parameters and generally feels firmer. If you have opted for the Race Package you then have access to Slick and User modes which provide a much harder setup as simply put its designed for racetrack use only with the bike fitted with slick tyres. Within each riding mode you need to adjust the DDC system to suit your needs given the electronic parameters have noticeably changed. Note however that preload, once adjusted, remains extant throughout all modes unless the bike is behaving in such a way on track that it necessitates a change.

 

[soofsayer]

I ran slick mode for first time last Sunday, there's a route on the way home I take to finish the ride off that has rise in the road and is certain to get the front wheel off the road and the rear if I accelerate hard enough. I managed to get the front up this time and felt the back go light but didn't leave the road, I didn't get any TC intervention according to the display. Should I have got any TC in slick mode?

I've not read the book in detail, in slick mode what does the big fat zero for DTC indicate in the centre of the display?

rys1000rr is very complete in his post.

the short answer to your question is zero is the 'middle' setting between max +7 and no -7 dtc intervention. So if you are set to 0, you will get some TC intervention depending on circumstances. Impossible to say if you should have or not in your scenario. If you set the dtc to -7 then you get little intervention. I believe the only way to have no TC is to disable it using the DTC button on startup.

 

[cally1066]

I couldn't get my sag anywhere near what the book recommended by altering the preloaded I even wound the rear spring right it and still came up short with my 16 stone on it so I wound it back and left it

 

[fast_ryan]

Dynamic Traction Control

It's not so much turning traction control down but instead increasing the time for DTC intervention to take place. At +7 DTC will intervene as soon as the software detects that it is required. By selecting -1 to -7 you are effectively increasing the time before DTC intervention occurs. In effect by decreasing DTC you are increasing the amount that the rear wheel will slide; which is particularly useful on track. The factory setting is '0' and there is an option to turn DTC off completely.

 

[Loupe]

@RyS1000rr
Very informative and interesting reading. Thank you.

 

[Cavey]

I run user mode on the road.

I tend to use the race throttle setting as I like having the engine braking on the road.

For suspension, I use sport as I find the race and slick setting too hard for the road.

The great thing about user mode is you can choose any combination you like.

fyi the front dmp setting does change compression and rebound damping together, unless you fit the 2D sensor, then you can set comp and reb separately.

Hang on....so the different modes effect engine braking? I couldn't find anything about this in the manual and engine braking feels the same in all modes to me??! :-/ I'd actually prefer a touch more engine braking generally if it can be altered? Any thoughts on how this is possible? Cheers ;-)

 

[fast_ryan]

Riding Modes

Each riding mode has different engine management (power, throttle, engine braking etc) settings which become progressively more track orientated. Likewise the DDC, DTC and ABS parameters all change to suit track use. Slick mode in particular is designed for trackday and race use with throttle response being very direct and engine braking is significantly reduced to aid corner entry. To manually alter engine braking, and a whole host of other variables, you would need the HP Race Calibration Kit 3 and accompanying ECU enabling code uniquely matched to your bike's serial number. This is a very expensive HP part designed for race use only and completely invalidates your warranty as soon as its installed. That and you need to be highly proficient with BMW/2D data and race diagnostic software to be able to use it properly.

 

[Cavey]

Re: Riding Modes

Each riding mode has different engine management (power, throttle, engine braking etc) settings which become progressively more track orientated. Likewise the DDC, DTC and ABS parameters all change to suit track use. Slick mode in particular is designed for trackday and race use with throttle response being very direct and engine braking is significantly reduced to aid corner entry. To manually alter engine braking, and a whole host of other variables, you would need the HP Race Calibration Kit 3 and accompanying ECU enabling code uniquely matched to your bike's serial number. This is a very expensive HP part designed for race use only and completely invalidates your warranty as soon as its installed. That and you need to be highly proficient with BMW/2D data and race diagnostic software to be able to use it properly.

Cheers for the info Ry ;-) ....i havent actually installed my slick plug yet so i'm only comparing standard 3 modes (2015)...engine braking doesnt feel much different between sport and race tho?? Here's a question: The manual states both Sport & Race offer full engine power/throttle response.....but i'm hearing of people using slick mode for extra engine power?? Are people experiencing a stronger engine when switching from race to slick or is there some sort of illusion going on?? :-0

 

[fast_ryan]

Riding Modes

The only riding mode with reduced power is 'Rain' mode. In 'Sport' and 'Race' modes maximum power is available. The difference between those modes and 'Slick' mode is the throttle response is much more direct and instant when selected; hence the so-called feeling of more power. Simply put throttle response is much more aggressive in 'Slick' mode as it's designed for track use.

 

[hellrider1981]

Re: Riding Modes

I use Slick Mode on the Road and its very nice ��

you can adjust the User mode for your Perfect mixture