ride height, swingarm pivot adjustments?

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No, it's complicated.

For starters you need this

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Last edited:
Manual explains how to change this.
There are pre set measurements so you could just change rear ride height up or down and see by yourself how more or less pointy the bike becomes.

But you could also influence that a lot with preload and compression settings provided bike is new and you can go harder in a big range but that would be for a more racy or sport setting conversely against comfort.

About pivot too, there are 2 pre set measurements to play with.


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ampj8 said:
Manual explains how to change this.
There are pre set measurements so you could just change rear ride height up or down and see by yourself how more or less pointy the bike becomes.

But you could also influence that a lot with preload and compression settings provided bike is new and you can go harder in a big range but that would be for a more racy or sport setting conversely against comfort.

About pivot too, there are 2 pre set measurements to play with.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

hello, thank you. im only after lowering the seat on my missis bike. not really after altering anything else really. i know i can lower a mm with the ride height adjuster and will cut out seat but just wondered if anyone had tried lowering with the swing arm too. ive asked Cotswold bmw to look into it before she picks the new bike up.

cheers
 
r25sti said:
hello, thank you. im only after lowering the seat on my missis bike. not really after altering anything else really. i know i can lower a mm with the ride height adjuster and will cut out seat but just wondered if anyone had tried lowering with the swing arm too. ive asked Cotswold bmw to look into it before she picks the new bike up.

cheers
Click to expand...

1 mm she would notice so I would do that regardless. Pivot won?t do much.
Else well you will have to consider changing the linkage or spring.


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How tall is she? I've used Daytona boots in the past as they give a 6cm uplift when struggling with bike height. They're not cheap but are great quality, waterproof (even after crashing :) ) and pretty comfortable. Might save messing with geometry/comfort?
 
When i got my 2024 m1000rr, i felt to much antisquat, the rear felt jacked up compared to my 2021 K67 m sport in which i had 20k miles on. I wanted the M1000rr to feel more like my k 67. The eccentric came -1 from the factory, swingarm pivot at 5 dots. I adjust ONLY the eccentric so the rear would feel a lower to -3, rear was to low, adjust to -2, and rear felt perfect. Now it just the front seems a bit raised, thinking about lowering the yokes. not sure yet, only have 1500 miles on it.
 
r25sti said:
what about just the seat height adjuster.
Click to expand...
Just lower or raise your eccentric strut. Dont worry or do anything to swingarm pivot at this point.....when i bought my '24 m1000rr, the rear felt way to jacked up....i ONLY adjusted the rear eccentric strut link and its almost perfect now. Its all in your manual.
 
bmwian said:
24 m1000rr
Click to expand...
Oh wow very good to know. Did you think the front was a little to high from what you were comfortable with? Im going from a '21 K67 M, (20k miles) to this new m1k and im trying to get the front and rear more like my K67. On m1k the rear felt way to jacked up at first. I did remove the OEM seat cuz i hated it, and switched to stock K67 m seat, way better. Rear still felt jacked up so lowered the eccentric strut to -2 from -1. -1 was from factory. Now the rear feels good, but the front i think is just a tad jacked up for my liking. Ive never raised or lowered a yoke before, never had to. Basically relieve the front end so theres no weight, and then just loosed bottom triple, then top triple slowly until the yoke lowers to my liking? I assume both sides will move at the same exact time when loosened with each other, thus not creating any unbalanced offset from one fork to the other? Anything i have to be very careful of? hazards?
 
I have a 2024 BMW M1000rr and i also have a 2012 BMW S1000rr with 40k miles that i have tracked quite a lot!

Both bikes did not have a 'great handling feel' stock and both benefitted from dropping the front triple tree 5mm, it improved 'turn in'.

The M1000rr is waaay too hard for my 155 lbs weight and i had to lower both front / rear suspension settings to their lowest levels ..... at 4.5k miles it is finally getting more compliant and i am at #3 compression on front and rear, with cold tire pressure at 37 psi f/r and she handles well, up to 59 degrees of lean so far!

I have new Ohlins f/r to install, as the oem suspension is quite limited!
 
Ya the m1k suspension a way harder then the s1k....im 218 with gear and STILL had to take a lot of rear preload out. The m1k comes with a 100nm rear spring, which is crazzy. the s1k has a 60nm rear spring, so its almost double. BMW made the m1k for mainly track so they were right in thinking that stiffer settings for track, but still 100nm for rear still seems a bit much. I can get to about 56-58 lean angle on my s1k and only 50, comfortably on my m1k. I was thinking about doing Ohlins FGR 250 or 300, but an entire new yoke is required, re location of key and lock, or ignition delete. new calipers, axle, spacers, front fender mounts? its a rabbit hole. the FGRT 232 is plug and play front fork so might just go with that. ALOT cheaper to lol....

Have you flashed your m1k? if so which company?

Was i right in my method of lowering front yoke in last post?
 
Mrider89 said:
Ya the m1k suspension a way harder then the s1k....im 218 with gear and STILL had to take a lot of rear preload out. The m1k comes with a 100nm rear spring, which is crazzy. the s1k has a 60nm rear spring, so its almost double. BMW made the m1k for mainly track so they were right in thinking that stiffer settings for track, but still 100nm for rear still seems a bit much. I can get to about 56-58 lean angle on my s1k and only 50, comfortably on my m1k. I was thinking about doing Ohlins FGR 250 or 300, but an entire new yoke is required, re location of key and lock, or ignition delete. new calipers, axle, spacers, front fender mounts? its a rabbit hole. the FGRT 232 is plug and play front fork so might just go with that. ALOT cheaper to lol....

Have you flashed your m1k? if so which company?

Was i right in my method of lowering front yoke in last post?
Click to expand...
Raise the fork tubes so that 5mm of fork is showing above the triple clamp.

Motor is stock but many in the US seem to go with Bren Tune.

I get all my stuff from Alpha Racing - Ohlins BM569 rear shock - Pressurized front fork cartridges are all you need - FKR122

.. then you need a billet master cylinder, z04 front pads, better Brembo rotors to fix the brakes at high speed and remove fade.

520 chain / sprocket minus one front and minus one rear

New rear sets as the stock pegs have terrible knurling!

... i was stuck at 50 degrees of lean until 3k miles, then she loosened up :)
 
Ok i see.

Yes i have a BT handheld loaded with stage one flash for m1k, but have not flashed it yet for a few reasons.

1. waiting for go pro chin mount for helmet to do before and after video of flash, going to start vlogging.
2.Would like to wait until at least 2500 miles in case any potential serious warranty issues arise.
3. am still scared to death of flashing this thing, not trying to blow a $15k motor, as compared to my K67, $7k motor....

I just installed brembos new Corsa Corta RR 19 master cyl. on my K67. on that bike i had installed brembo gp4-rx calipers but left the OEM 17 Master. and it had NO braking power. This new master is incredible. Same thing as the regular corsa corta, with a billet finish, and different, better lever. FLASHIER! lol....

Im going to install 520 chain.sprockets on my m1k soon.

I actually dropped my m1k while at a gas station like a complete idiot. Thought the side stand was down and it wasn't....

The wing got the most of it, but only on the bottom corner, cant even notice,
peg is bent, minor scuffs on inner edge of fairing. If i didnn't have frame sliders, it would of been way worse. Majority of the fall hit the sliders, and wing. And i knew if i had ever dropped it or crashed that the wing was going to get the worst of it. o well. They dont stay perfect forever....

I did find good replacement pegs for OEM Gilles rearsets....

https://www.motodracing.com/bonamic...J_Jji2g1MNWnGzn8xD41HYrMHELKy2YBoCoSAQAvD_BwE

I found out about these from a youtuber with the new m1k.

They do make a cool adodized blue outer piece for the peg too. You want the non threaded version.
 

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