Oh for goodness sake - why ABS?

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DangerousDave

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So I'm desperately trying to bleed the new lines in with out much luck. Turns out that with the abs system you need to complete a "gs-911" test using a diagnostic tool, which opens and closes the servo switches while you do it.

It's not really an issue when just changing the fluid as you are not introducing air into the system but that's not what I've done.

Trailer to ten dealer then?
 
just an idea cant ya start the bike and put it in a mode that turns abs off then bleed it ??

i dunno just an idea
 
Hmm, right now I'll try anything. I also thought about turning the ignition on/off sporadically to get the valves to flutter with the system check.

I'll give it another go this evening and if I still get no luck I'll call the dealers in the morning.
 
Any luck with this ? I just changed my rear res. ever since Iv had a spongy front and rear leaver. It's doing my head in....
 
So I've bled the hell out of it, using both a midi vac and traditional in/out methods, turning the ignition on and off during the process to activate the servo and passing a whole second bottle through the system with the ignition permanently on. There are now no bubbles what so ever, however (here we go) I'm not convinced the leaver is as firm as I was before the swap out.

Ahhhhhhh.
 
If there was a fault with the ABS pump etc, would a fault code be thrown up on the dash ?

You must be able to bleed the brakes etc with out using the GS-911 Diognositc tool...
 
Should be able to as i changed the fluid on mine at a trackday between sessions last week with no troubles.
 
another idea mmmm

put some grease on the bleed nipple threads to stop air being drawn in through them, also as your sucking through one of the calipers attach another full bottle of fluid with a hose to one of the other nipples either on other caliper or master cylinder nipple will help draw fluid through
 
I replaced the lines on mine(and swapped them back when I sold it) with no problems at all.

Presumably you bled the master cylinder too.

And cable-tied the lever on overnight?
 
It does not say anything in the service manual about any diag tools. but mentions the 2 bleed points.

Whats the cable tie do Baz?
 
Aye, the order of bleed was m/c > left calliper > right calliper > m/c. I've also tied the leaver down so I'll check next time I go out.

It shouldn't be an issue as unlike other bm's the abs on the s1k are not power assisted. As for the diog tool, I just found reference to that in the bleed process following an Internet search.

The idea of tying the leaver down is it is supposed to allow any bubbles to rise up back into the fluid bottle. Any things worth a try.
 
So I've spoken to BMW this morning and it turns out that there is nothing special about bleeding the brakes on the S1k. Bonus. Just follow the sequence m/c to left calliper to right calliper

Sorted
 
Pretty much what it says in the Service Manual..............
 
I replaced the front hose back to the ABS unit & bled it as normal with a mitivac unit without any problems. Brake lever feels fine.
 
As soon as you activate a master cylinder the feed hole from the reservoir is shut so cable tying the lever on wont have any effect.

Did you get the lines in the same position as stock, any upwards bends that were not there before would make it difficult.

The tip on greasing the bleed nipples is a good one too. Stops the vacuum bleeder pulling air past the threads.

Have you tried pumping the lever with the nipple shut, hold the brake on and release the nipple. Lock it back up and repeat?
 
As soon as you activate a master cylinder the feed hole from the reservoir is shut so cable tying the lever on wont have any effect.

I should have said any air would return to the highest point,this being the master cylinder bleed nipple.A quick bleed at the cylinder should remove any remaining air.
 
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