OEM led indicators

[Bry641]

Ok so I've fitted the OEM led indicators all round (front and rear). I used the plug and play harness and cut off the tail bulb and spliced in my R&G tail number plate light. Everything works fine but the indicators flash too quick and have "! Lamp" on dash. I know it's been asked here before but is there an easy fix or is it a BMW ecu reset job. What does it require that BMW do. If my bike was in for a service do they plug into ecu as standard. How much does it cost to reset. Is there anybody in N IRELAND that services BMW apart from charles hurst.

 

[Pipehose]

yes lower ballinderry outside lisburn services bmws
mototech
16E Lower Ballinderry Rd
07713 147527

 

[Bry641]

Cheers pipehose. Don't suppose you know of anyone round the North Coast

 

[pof]

You can remove "lamp" yourself

 

[Bry641]

I've done that mate. It's really the fast flash rate that's annoying me. I know it going to require an update but what gets updated.

 

[pof]

Surley its just a resistor or relay that needs to go in

 

[fast_ryan]

OEM LED Indicators

It will more than likely be a software update for the ECU to tell the bike it is now fitted with LED indicators. The bike will require a visit to a BMW Motorrad dealership as it will need to be plugged into their diagnostic system for the update. If you have access to a Factory Service Manual it will tell you exactly what is required.

 

[Pipehose]

not sure about bmws but normally a resistor sort the fast flashing

 

[pof]

It was on my yams pipehouse

 

[Bry641]

The OEM led indicators have already got the resistors built in. Looks like a software update it is. I believe it's just a 15 min job.

 

[soofsayer]

not sure about bmws but normally a resistor sort the fast flashing

correct, however....

With these bikes the canbus system manages all electrics around the bike. It makes decisions on what to send where and when. If the ecu thinks it has standard indicators on whatever resistance etc then that's what voltage will be sent to them. If the indicators run a different voltage/resistance (I'm obviously not an electrician) then it can cause these kinds of issues. So telling the ecu what it has connected to it resolves many things. The canbus system, frankly, is a pain in the arse and can often be the culprit for electrical accessories not working correctly. The only way to avoid the canbus (if you wanted to fit something it didn't like sending power to) would be to wire direct from the battery with an inline fuse.

I hope that all makes sense .