tituslivius
Member
Does anyone have a motolug? How do you strap your bike on it? I'm asking this because the motolug has no way to strap your bike to the motolug as described in the user manual.
Motolug collapsable trailer: How to strap your s1000rr on it
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fast_ryan
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Motolug SE Trailer
I have a Motolug SE trailer for times when I'm not using a van for trackdays. I strap the bike to it as depicted in the website linked below and I have never had any issues.
http://www.morebikes.co.uk/collapsible-motolug-trailer-review/
I have a Motolug SE trailer for times when I'm not using a van for trackdays. I strap the bike to it as depicted in the website linked below and I have never had any issues.
http://www.morebikes.co.uk/collapsible-motolug-trailer-review/
Thats really cool.
tituslivius
Member
tnx all. Good to hear that you've all got good experiences with the motolug.
Are the tyre downs as stable as fixing the bike to the handlebar?
Are the tyre downs as stable as fixing the bike to the handlebar?
Ma Salope
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I've tried both and the tyre downs are far superior in that they lock the wheels and the suspension is not compressed at any time, thus not allowing your ratchets(the straps that they are attached to) to loosen when under motion, which can happen. Hope that helps.
tituslivius
Member
It's difficult to see on the picture but doesn't it interfere with the exaust? Or in the front with someting?
I am looking at buying the Motolug SE after a knackering day in the heat last week at the BMW club day at Snetterton. 33 degrees in leathers and I had to miss the last session as I was dead on my feet and still had a 150 mile ride home. I can't use a van for two reasons, firstly no where to store it, secondly and most importantly I have a weak right ankle from a parachuting accident and would not be confident pushing the bike into a van.
Are there any more updates from members who are using the Motolug? How are you securing the bike to it. What's peoples views on tyre downs as Ma Salope highly recommends v Ryan's method of tying down from the handlebars. I understand Ryan is massively experienced in this area so I am minded to go with the handlebar set up and securing the rear using the subframe under the seat. Any recommendations on the best handlebar brand set up. I am probably over thinking this but I am worried about the loading and unloading, even though I have read its very easy and also the bike coming loose in transit due to poor tie down methods. Any thoughts are most welcome.
Are there any more updates from members who are using the Motolug? How are you securing the bike to it. What's peoples views on tyre downs as Ma Salope highly recommends v Ryan's method of tying down from the handlebars. I understand Ryan is massively experienced in this area so I am minded to go with the handlebar set up and securing the rear using the subframe under the seat. Any recommendations on the best handlebar brand set up. I am probably over thinking this but I am worried about the loading and unloading, even though I have read its very easy and also the bike coming loose in transit due to poor tie down methods. Any thoughts are most welcome.
MEEEEE!!!!
It's really simple, stable and secure. Will cover off your points in the next post.
- Alex
It's really simple, stable and secure. Will cover off your points in the next post.
- Alex
Wanted to get to a laptop. Instead of using the phone...
So I got mine off of a forum member at the end of last year, for the same reasons - I am stuck for a place to stick a van and wanted to trackday without having to do the ride there and back (plus you can take a chair and allsorts!)
Firstly, I bought this towbar: https://www.pfjones.co.uk/bmw-3-series-saloon-e90-2005-2012-westfalia-detachable-towbar.html
And the associated wiring kit for my 3-series. I mention it as this has been a great purchase. Fitting was the same cost again, on my drive...I'd had a look at doing it myself but decided that the dedicated electrics were too much for me to guess at. Plus the bar weighed a tonne and I didn't have access to a garage. The removable swan neck towbar ball means this is hidden at all other times (I stow it in the boot). The Motolug SE comes with a 7pin electrical adapter, I purposely bought a 13pin harness so I could do anything else. There are small fist sized adapters to downgrade 13 to 7pins.
The trailer, I can fit it in a BMW 3 Series Saloon E90. But the main section was happier fitting on the back seat. This isn't a capacious car. This is important to consider because I wouldn't tow it empty if I could avoid it.
They are well constructed and when I'm towing it I can hardly tell it's there, if I shut the windows and turn the music up
having no suspension it does tend to let you know of every minute detail in the road...you are limited to 60mph on Dual's and M-Ways. And you're also not supposed to be in lane 3. But I'll be honest with lane discipline being so poor in this country I've given up obeying the latter....and err have never obey'd the former, I just tone down my normal driving.
Loading the MotoLug - attach to the car, pull two pins in the neck of trailer and it will angle up and drop the rear. Have at least 2inches from the ground to the bottom of the trailer lip. The bike weight will push that right down and you need some distance left to be able to drop the trailer into driving position later. Get a small wooden block if you like, to ramp over...
Drive the bike on in first, the front wheel chock takes a real shove to get over. But once in, I just release the clutch and stall it, in gear. Assuming you've got it in more or less upright then it will stay there, you can take your hands off it, I doubt you could pull it over...but don't try it.
Once on, I lower the trailer back down and fit the main neck pin to make the trailer structurally secure.
With the bike and trailer flat I fit 2 straps. 2m heavy duty jobbers (must be ratchet). The Motolug SE has strapping points on the wheels and the front chock. The theory is you're pulling the bike into the front chock and securing it laterally. So find a point on the bike that is behind the trailer wheels and ideally on both sides of the bike. So you strap down and out. I started off using a tie down plate on the nearside (pillion peg) and around the sub frame exhaust hanger on the offside. That worked well but I wasn't happy with the exhaust hanger potentially being stressed. I've now moved my strapping point to the lower legs of the Gen3 chassis. There's a hole around the rearset mounting point. I now use that. Strapping down so the suspension compresses at the back an inch or two (push down on the tail as you ratchet the straps). Make sure the bike is upright or close to, when done, and you're ready to go. I've had the thing jump on a speed bump I'd not seen till late and the bike and trailer only ever moved as one.
Never use the handle bars, they are fragile, and there's no need.
Ammusingly the hardest part is getting it out of the chock later. A hot tyre bonds to it quite well, I've had to start taking a breaker bar simply to lever the front out of the chock a bit and break that bond. It does mean I am frequently asking for help ejecting the bike form the trailer but it's better that than yank on the bars to pull it out. (Not forgetting it was in gear when you parked it).
I'll get some pics.
So I got mine off of a forum member at the end of last year, for the same reasons - I am stuck for a place to stick a van and wanted to trackday without having to do the ride there and back (plus you can take a chair and allsorts!)
Firstly, I bought this towbar: https://www.pfjones.co.uk/bmw-3-series-saloon-e90-2005-2012-westfalia-detachable-towbar.html
And the associated wiring kit for my 3-series. I mention it as this has been a great purchase. Fitting was the same cost again, on my drive...I'd had a look at doing it myself but decided that the dedicated electrics were too much for me to guess at. Plus the bar weighed a tonne and I didn't have access to a garage. The removable swan neck towbar ball means this is hidden at all other times (I stow it in the boot). The Motolug SE comes with a 7pin electrical adapter, I purposely bought a 13pin harness so I could do anything else. There are small fist sized adapters to downgrade 13 to 7pins.
The trailer, I can fit it in a BMW 3 Series Saloon E90. But the main section was happier fitting on the back seat. This isn't a capacious car. This is important to consider because I wouldn't tow it empty if I could avoid it.
They are well constructed and when I'm towing it I can hardly tell it's there, if I shut the windows and turn the music up
having no suspension it does tend to let you know of every minute detail in the road...you are limited to 60mph on Dual's and M-Ways. And you're also not supposed to be in lane 3. But I'll be honest with lane discipline being so poor in this country I've given up obeying the latter....and err have never obey'd the former, I just tone down my normal driving.Loading the MotoLug - attach to the car, pull two pins in the neck of trailer and it will angle up and drop the rear. Have at least 2inches from the ground to the bottom of the trailer lip. The bike weight will push that right down and you need some distance left to be able to drop the trailer into driving position later. Get a small wooden block if you like, to ramp over...
Drive the bike on in first, the front wheel chock takes a real shove to get over. But once in, I just release the clutch and stall it, in gear. Assuming you've got it in more or less upright then it will stay there, you can take your hands off it, I doubt you could pull it over...but don't try it.
Once on, I lower the trailer back down and fit the main neck pin to make the trailer structurally secure.
With the bike and trailer flat I fit 2 straps. 2m heavy duty jobbers (must be ratchet). The Motolug SE has strapping points on the wheels and the front chock. The theory is you're pulling the bike into the front chock and securing it laterally. So find a point on the bike that is behind the trailer wheels and ideally on both sides of the bike. So you strap down and out. I started off using a tie down plate on the nearside (pillion peg) and around the sub frame exhaust hanger on the offside. That worked well but I wasn't happy with the exhaust hanger potentially being stressed. I've now moved my strapping point to the lower legs of the Gen3 chassis. There's a hole around the rearset mounting point. I now use that. Strapping down so the suspension compresses at the back an inch or two (push down on the tail as you ratchet the straps). Make sure the bike is upright or close to, when done, and you're ready to go. I've had the thing jump on a speed bump I'd not seen till late and the bike and trailer only ever moved as one.
Never use the handle bars, they are fragile, and there's no need.
Ammusingly the hardest part is getting it out of the chock later. A hot tyre bonds to it quite well, I've had to start taking a breaker bar simply to lever the front out of the chock a bit and break that bond. It does mean I am frequently asking for help ejecting the bike form the trailer but it's better that than yank on the bars to pull it out. (Not forgetting it was in gear when you parked it).
I'll get some pics.
Old mounting just to keep you occupied
- Alex
- Alex
Brilliant write up Alex, really appreciate that. I look forward to seeing the photos of where you secure the bike now you have refined the technique. Did you not feel the need to secure the bike at the front using two additional straps. I presume you are happy that the bike is being pulled forward into the front chock.
What wheels size are using , 8 or 10 as that might explain why the trailer does not fully hit the ground. There is a YouTube video from the US of a guy using 10 inch wheels who has the same issue and it’s because his tow bar is not higher than 16.5 inches from the ground.
What wheels size are using , 8 or 10 as that might explain why the trailer does not fully hit the ground. There is a YouTube video from the US of a guy using 10 inch wheels who has the same issue and it’s because his tow bar is not higher than 16.5 inches from the ground.
Ahh no, I meant the gap is intentional.
When you want to release the pins to lower the front, you need some rear clearance to lift the front, release, drop. No clearance = no pin movement.
I have the 8".
If I was buying new I'd have got the SE+ and 10" rims.
- Alex
When you want to release the pins to lower the front, you need some rear clearance to lift the front, release, drop. No clearance = no pin movement.
I have the 8".
If I was buying new I'd have got the SE+ and 10" rims.
- Alex
Finally
- Alex
- Alex
