Gen 3 Track setup

[davejhartley]

Hi Guys
I have just returned form Portimao on my first real trackday on my newly acquired 2017 Gen3 . I have upgraded from a K8 gsxr 750 which had no electronics whatsoever to this which has lots to learn.
I started in Race mode but found it kept cutting out when on high revs which I now think was traction control. After watching Youtube videos I decided to change to user mode and had all of the settings set to Slick mode apart from the engine which I left in Race mode. I could then change the DTC setting to 0 (-7 to +7). This seemed to work ok as in in didnt cut out or activate anymore but the light was flashing a lot.
I am at mid inters level and wondered if anyone has any advice on what settings they have and why? I also wondered about the % DTC display and what relevance it has? Secondly the m/s display is I believe on ABS but not really sure what it means.
Thanks in advance chaps

 

[alex]

At high RPM, flat out, upright, any cut isn't DTC. It's more likely to be coil/spark degradation or knock control if it was super hot (you ran Super Unleaded yes?)
The DTC is pretty good, however, it's not an audible cut unless you are running a specific aftermarket map. Standard it closes the butterfly's and slows things down.

Without seeing or hearing it's hard to know.

 

[davejhartley]

At high RPM, flat out, upright, any cut isn't DTC. It's more likely to be coil/spark degradation or knock control if it was super hot (you ran Super Unleaded yes?)
The DTC is pretty good, however, it's not an audible cut unless you are running a specific aftermarket map. Standard it closes the butterfly's and slows things down.

Without seeing or hearing it's hard to know.

wow once I googled what knock control was I think you are spot on as I was running 98 on the first day and back to 95 on the rest of the days. But as it stopped after I did my changes I thought it was down to the DTC

 

[shy231_]

Run it on slick.

Start at 0 and back it down as you gain confidence.

That's what I done when I first started on my gen 3.

Got a fair few vids of mine at portimao.

Before my map I had it on -3/4 and I never felt like it wasn't there goving me a helping hand still.

Also if your on a hot track with sticky rubber.

Just switch ABS off

 

[alex]

wow once I googled what knock control was I think you are spot on as I was running 98 on the first day and back to 95 on the rest of the days. But as it stopped after I did my changes I thought it was down to the DTC

High octane fuel helps to manage the ignition flame front. In cooler conditions it can allow the ECU to advance the spark to gain power, in hot conditions it helps delay the onset of knock/detonation. If the knock control is triggered then the ECU will protect the bike and you'll feel the ignition cut.

This is why I only run SUL on track, maximum protection first and maximum power second (it also tends to have the best cleaning additives).

 

[scooby]

gen 3- slick mode (forget about user) -2 on used tyres, -4 on new tyres.

just remove the knock the sensors, or unplug them, i've road 000's of miles on track on teh gen3, never once had issues with knock sensors, no matter the temp.

the flashing t/c light activates on either traction control kiccking in, or anti wheelie, if it's happening coming onto the s/f straight at porto, then good chance it's anti wheelie over the crest.

m/s display is meters/second, as in braking force. (from memory at least)

 

[scooby]

oh and if that is actually your location in your avatar ,i'm 5 minutes down the road in the trough

 

[Gobert]

gen 3- slick mode (forget about user) -2 on used tyres, -4 on new tyres.

User mode was helpful before I went RCK simply to have "Race" engine braking with everything else on "Slick" - I found that "slick" engine braking wasn't enough?

 

[alex]

Engine braking is definitely something that should be high to low, not road to slick.

 

[scooby]

User mode was helpful before I went RCK simply to have "Race" engine braking with everything else on "Slick" - I found that "slick" engine braking wasn't enough?

yea, the rck is good for the anti wheelie settings + tweaking the engine braking. had issues setting the wheel diameter traction settings so ended going back to factory settings

 

[Timbo s2]

User mode was helpful before I went RCK simply to have "Race" engine braking with everything else on "Slick" - I found that "slick" engine braking wasn't enough?

Exactly the same as me. I like as much engine braking as possible.

OP - Don;t use the 95 fuel - mine doesn;t like it either.

 

[davejhartley]

gen 3- slick mode (forget about user) -2 on used tyres, -4 on new tyres.

just remove the knock the sensors, or unplug them, i've road 000's of miles on track on teh gen3, never once had issues with knock sensors, no matter the temp.

the flashing t/c light activates on either traction control kiccking in, or anti wheelie, if it's happening coming onto the s/f straight at porto, then good chance it's anti wheelie over the crest.

m/s display is meters/second, as in braking force. (from memory at l

oh and if that is actually your location in your avatar ,i'm 5 minutes down the road in the trough

Got another question for you.. I am looking at swapping my chain and sprockets would you recommend sticking with standard size or a different combination for the track? Also are there any localish BMW specialists as I have bought my stuff off Dr Bikes in the past?

 

[scooby]

depends on which tracks tbh, but a good all round combo is 16/44. with a track with a decent straight

parts wise, depends what your after, if it's just general stuff, filters, consumables etc then anywhere really.