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A couple of S1000RR heads operating at 14,000 rpm.
https://youtu.be/c8hqoE1_7bA
https://youtu.be/vcyT18qk8ls
https://youtu.be/c8hqoE1_7bA
https://youtu.be/vcyT18qk8ls
Engine oil
- Thread starter HPlogger
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Help Support S1000RR FORUM:
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After this, i?ll stop before I bore you. Running in..... The S1000RR is the first and only engine I know of that they put fully synthetic in from new. I?m amazed at that. It normally wouldn?t allow an engine to bed in. They say that the few minutes they put all the bikes on the dyno to check everything is ok, that?s enough to bed it in. Personally bollocks to that.
This is my personal experience from 40 years that it?s all about heat cyles. I learnt this from Tony Scott who used to do my race engines. (back in the day before dynos) Running a bike in from new always warm the bike up to operating temp ie thermostat opens on a paddock stand with the bike in gear so you get all the engine fully warm, then run it in on countrylanes so you vary the load. These roads force you to roll on/off the throttle. The worst thing you cn do is sit on a motorway at a constant load. Slowly build the load ie revs/throttle openings over 600 miles. Very light to start then build up. more load, more heat, more component expansion. For Tony?s Race engines I changed oil and filter every 200 miles. My bikes have always produced big figures and been reliable. The salesman, thrash it from new is a load of bull.... they?re not paying the bills. IMHO
This is my personal experience from 40 years that it?s all about heat cyles. I learnt this from Tony Scott who used to do my race engines. (back in the day before dynos) Running a bike in from new always warm the bike up to operating temp ie thermostat opens on a paddock stand with the bike in gear so you get all the engine fully warm, then run it in on countrylanes so you vary the load. These roads force you to roll on/off the throttle. The worst thing you cn do is sit on a motorway at a constant load. Slowly build the load ie revs/throttle openings over 600 miles. Very light to start then build up. more load, more heat, more component expansion. For Tony?s Race engines I changed oil and filter every 200 miles. My bikes have always produced big figures and been reliable. The salesman, thrash it from new is a load of bull.... they?re not paying the bills. IMHO
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I?m a mix between a visual person hence the drawing and a trainer and I love how things work or don?t work.....
So 5W40 would be almost a flat line. So if you live in a cold climate ie Canada, Scandiwegian countries etc. It?s important as more often than not it?s a cold start and you want the oil to flow quickly. For the average UK Summer rider than SORN?s his bikes over winter a 10W40 is perfect.
So 5W40 would be almost a flat line. So if you live in a cold climate ie Canada, Scandiwegian countries etc. It?s important as more often than not it?s a cold start and you want the oil to flow quickly. For the average UK Summer rider than SORN?s his bikes over winter a 10W40 is perfect.
Those head/valve vids are funny. Camera frame rate has no chance.
Thanks for the oil notes. I've wondered about using 15w40 on a europe trip. But that cold start protection always worries me...10w40 is probably fine though
Any risk to seals/rings/breathers?
- Alex
Thanks for the oil notes. I've wondered about using 15w40 on a europe trip. But that cold start protection always worries me...10w40 is probably fine though
Any risk to seals/rings/breathers?
- Alex
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Alex, I?d run 10W40. No problems with engine internals as long as it doesn?t have molybdenum in it as an additive. J
So after 350 miles or so and the tune up (I am well happy with), I changed oil and filter back to OEM.
The oil still had a tint of green to it.
I'm not liking the look of the debris worn on the plug magnet
Is this still normal wear after 300-400 miles?
Appreciate feedback
The oil still had a tint of green to it.
I'm not liking the look of the debris worn on the plug magnet
Is this still normal wear after 300-400 miles?
Appreciate feedback
She sounds sweet though
[video]blob:https://www.facebook.com/af47c3d7-03e2-466f-9429-d7ae1d80f527[/video]
Good oil level
[video]blob:https://www.facebook.com/af47c3d7-03e2-466f-9429-d7ae1d80f527[/video]
Good oil level
I get about the same after 1 trackday
Ouch I feel lucky owning this rocket.
Was that a race bike you found the tooth from and I presume an earlier model?
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scooby
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after a little digging,found that the engines clutch exploded at the NW200,was all fixed and ran again also at the TT without issue,but it obviously had done some damage to a gear/tooth,and in time failed+sheered,stripping the engine we could see some damage internally where bits had been flying around inside,nothing major,just score marks.i was lucky enough,through a friend to get a complete replacement gearbox from Nova at a very reasonable price.always helps when you either know,or can trace the history of a bike
