chain and swingarm

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Agree about the chain,changed mine after 600 miles. As for removing the plastics,must say it's a doddle compared to 13 plate blade I traded in. Time will tell but after riding Hondas for 9 years I'm very impressed with this bike so far.


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OEM Chain

The OEM chain isn't very good but it's no worse than a cheap aftermarket chain. You are far better off replacing it with a quality item from the likes of D.I.D, Renthal or Tsubaki.
 
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Mine was rusty again today so out with the kit...top of the line machine and poor quality chain, doesn't add up

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Grrr 20 grand bike and a cheap shite chain guard too...forgot all about that till I saw it on my TV.. I get it if your making 50,000 units or whatever, but on a short run machine !
 
I would not use the degreaser on any chain, the best way i found is removing the chain off the bike, dip it white spirit, brush it thoroughly, dry it using compressed air, then apply the spray and finally assemble back, saves damaging the swingarm and getting the grease on the tyre. Also wipe clean the sprockets and front cover, its where all the nasty stuff usually ends.
Guess its my ocd nature that i go through this process lol
 
I would not use the degreaser on any chain, the best way i found is removing the chain off the bike, dip it white spirit, brush it thoroughly, dry it using compressed air, then apply the spray and finally assemble back, saves damaging the swingarm and getting the grease on the tyre. Also wipe clean the sprockets and front cover, its where all the nasty stuff usually ends.
Guess its my ocd nature that i go through this process lol


white spirit will defo rot the seals and wash the grease out of the links. defo overly excessive and damaging too.imo. if your ocd how would you get grease on the tyre too?...im a little ocd and grease dosnt get near the tyre. wd40 on a cloth to wipe of old lube and a dry lube to relube. put a rag under the center of the chain balancing on the bellypan and spray the chain from above. also if your ocd then why would you want to use/risk using a split like..
 
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I use a minimum amount of degreaser.. I dip the brush head in a small pale of it and just run the bike in second gear and apply the U shaped bit to the rear sprocket...it's just enough to get shit out between the links....dry it with same method using a cloth....3 n 1 oil it it dry wipe again and finally Wurth dry lube it... 5 minute job.

Where do you get compressed air from if you don't have a compressor...lol... and i wouldn't use white spirit either...that degreaser is water solueable.


Stu
 
got a 150 lts compressor, ac/dc tig welder, 50cm lathe and milling machine plus more
 
Maybe I'm just doing it really badly but my regime takes about 1 minute and I have the same chain and sprockets from new with 13,000 miles so far and little rust on the plates:

Upon returning from a ride I put the rear on the paddock stand and select neutral.

I get some workshop paper towelling and lay it on top of the rear section of the Carbon belly pan to catch excess fluids, making sure it does not catch the rear tyre.

I then spin the wheel gently whilst spraying wurth brake and chain cleaner into the chain, inside to out, directed towards where the paper towel is.

Might give the chain a wipe although generally the force of the spray does the job.

Wait 30 seconds (shaking the wurth dry lube can), then apply dry lube exactly the same way, reversing the chain direction once to ensure a good coating.

Done. :)
 
In summer i just stick on stand and spray with wd40 , clean off with rag and done. In winter i do the same as above but coat in wurth dry.

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Maybe I'm just doing it really badly but my regime takes about 1 minute and I have the same chain and sprockets from new with 13,000 miles so far and little rust on the plates:

Upon returning from a ride I put the rear on the paddock stand and select neutral.

I get some workshop paper towelling and lay it on top of the rear section of the Carbon belly pan to catch excess fluids, making sure it does not catch the rear tyre.

I then spin the wheel gently whilst spraying wurth brake and chain cleaner into the chain, inside to out, directed towards where the paper towel is.

Might give the chain a wipe although generally the force of the spray does the job.

Wait 30 seconds (shaking the wurth dry lube can), then apply dry lube exactly the same way, reversing the chain direction once to ensure a good coating.

Done. :)


this, but i use wd40 and cloth. :) 2 minits tops.
 
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Mine was rusty again today so out with the kit...top of the line machine and poor quality chain, doesn't add up

Sent from Galaxy S7

totally agree stu, standard chains a POS , I ran it through the winter, no matter what I did bloody thing looked like it sank with the titanic , some of the links went that stiff I couldn't beat them straight with a hammer! replaced with a non OME part courtesy of Stephen on here and it's been spot on , hardly need to adjust it tbh , some really good points above re cleaning and lubing, can't recommend the wurth chain cleaner and lube enough.
 

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