Chain and spockets

[alex]

I'm going to change the chain and sprockets...cause I want to. But I want to ascertain a few 'facts'. I'm not set on any course so happy to hear real experience.
(I have a 2012, 525 chain 118 link, 17T/45T F/R Sprockets)

1.) 520 chains reduce rotating mass, but the downsides of them are ______________________ {please fill in the blank}
1.1) If you've used/use a 520 could you please comment on how you've found using one?
2.) If I reduce to a 16T/44T I'll reduce the gearing. I assume I'll have to reduce the number of links too? Anyone know how many?
3.) Are SuperSprox good? Or should I just stick to good entirely steel units. (I do not want Ali)
4.) Which brand do you trust most. Subjective but always good to hear.

 

[fast_ryan]

Gearing

Steel OEM sprockets and chains will weigh significantly more than aftermarket sprockets as they are designed for longevity. By converting to a 520 pitch chain and sprockets you will marginally reduce unsprung weight; but just don't expect to achieve the same high mileage that you would do from an OEM or 525 pitch set. For track use this is not an issue but if your predominantly road riding then this may be a deciding factor. I generally switch to a 520 pitch as there is often a far greater choice and availability of sprocket sizes particularly when using aftermarket wheels.

As a rule just remember the following when making any changes to gear ratios:

• Gearing a bike up to produce higher top speed with less acceleration is done using a larger front sprocket or a smaller rear sprocket.
• Gearing a bike down giving it more acceleration with lower top speed is done using a smaller front sprocket or a larger rear sprocket.

Generally speaking changing one tooth on the front sprocket has a significantly larger effect on the gearing than changing one tooth on the rear sprocket. To make only a small change in gearing it is therefore necessary to change the rear sprocket size by one tooth, as changing the front sprocket makes a far larger difference in gearing.

You may not always have to reduce the number of links when altering gear ratios but bear in mind a reduction in chain length may positively, or negatively, alter wheelbase. As for which sprocket brand to recommend I personally always use Renthal as I've used them for racing, trackdays and road riding for years without issue. That said you can't really go wrong with any of the products from the top chain and sprocket manufacturers.

 

[mibridger]

Re: Gearing

Agree with all of the above.

I went with a AFAM 520 conversion, 16 front -1 and 44 rear also -1, I also have a 46 rear but I find this too much, even for short circuits, and on the road it is a pain.

I went with AFAM as their products last very well, steel front anodised alloy rear.

I did not reduce the chain length, it's 120 links on the 2015 as the wheelbase is longer than previous models, obviously with the 46 sprocket, the wheelbase is shorter and I found the bike wanted to wheelie more.

 

[alex]

Thanks so far. I used http://www.gearingcommander.com/ to see what I would be *interested* in using if I didn't stay with the stock ratios. I am a bit crap at keeping the engine fizzing on track but also I road ride so don't want a lunatic machine... I feel that 16/44 would be my only compromise away from stock.

 

[fast_ryan]

Gearing

Once you have decided on what chain pitch you want sprockets are quite reasonably priced. They are easy to fit should you choose to revert back to the OEM gear ratio. For an idea on potential costs have a look at the B&C Express website.

 

[alex]

True enough.