190 v 200 rear tyres?

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bluenose

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Gonna be due a new set of tyres soon, only for the road and only bothered about decent grip, i try to ride it fast. i have noticed all the track guys using slicks tend to go for the 200 section rear tyre, is this a better choice than the 190? if so why?

i have read a little that you have to be careful swapping tyre sizes on the bmw because it monitors tyre/wheel sizes for traction control, my bike is run in slick mode so not bothered about the traction control to be honest but i don't want warning lights popping up, is there any issues changing over to the 200 rear tyre, i am assuming the total circumference of the 200 tyre must be slightly bigger?

ta
Lee
 
The 200 section tyre has a larger side grip contact area and a shallower rolling radius (depending on the tyre) 2 seasons ago I raced all year with a 190 then last season I swapped to a 200 and the difference I felt was ............... Zero


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lol :)

if there is no difference and no harm i may do it just coz it looks phat!!
 
Just stick with a 190 I would say like. Also tyre type go for a metzeler racetek k3, that's the tyre I use and it's great, keeps her glued (well, the rear wheel atleast lol) only thing is in the wet bang her on rain mode and just be careful as the tyre is at its best in dry conditions
 
Technically if your bike came from the factory with a 190 rear the TC is set up with that parameter. BMW would say you should have the TC recalibrated by them if you fit a different size (I.e. A 200).

However, no one bothers and nobody I know of has ever experienced any issues running a 200 instead of a 190 or vice versa, and certainly no warning lights or error messages.
 
I also suppose on that note should keep the tyres sizes standard, for insurance reasons too? Forged rim a 200 and std is a 190?
 
Yes that's right :). Good excuse for some HP rims?

awesome! Yeah was looking in to this. I believe the HP rims use a different Cush drive too? What's required, rims / different front discs / spacers / sprocket carrier / and jobs a good un? Or?
 
Cheers for comments, I am gonna try and get a set of tyres tomorrow and was going to go for the 200 section if no one has experienced issues, on a serious note if the track guys think you get better edge grip on the 200 tyre this is a good reason just in case we end up doing a track day> will going to Metz K3 as recommended.

Out of interest.. I have michelins Pilots on the bike now which were on the bike when I bought it, I have taken my time to get to know the bike but went for a proper blast last time out and was really pushing hard. The rear tyre has worn strangely? you can actually see the rear section where I am guessing it is a different compound and now there is an actual step from the middle area to where I think the ouster softer compound starts, the tyre looks like a tyre after its had a burn out if you know what I mean, there is a band of rubber in the middle and a clear line where the ouster compounds are, i am fairly shocked at the way the ouster compound has worn more than the harder compound and there is now a "step" with you can actually feel with your finger where the softer compound has worn more? On the area where the softer compound is between the tyre grooves the rubber blocks areas have also worn in a weird way. I am convinced these tyres are not up to the job for the BMW at all, looking forward to fresh K3s :)
 
Just remembered a write up on here about the M7RR and I may go for these, cheapest ones I have found on eBay are from "thevisorshopauction" at ?236 for the 120/70/zr17 & 200/55/zr17, anyone know of cheaper?
 
Re: Tyres

For tyres I generally use Oponeo and I'm yet to find anywhere cheaper.

www.oponeo.co.uk

Because they import from Eastern Europe and supply tyres towards the end of their life.

Personally I'm going to try to stick to using companies which use UK stock going forwards. Like from FWR.


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I always use watling tyres. Set of rosso corsas was around 230 fitted to loose wheels
 
After no time at all the Beemer will shred a tyre like that haha. Pretty normal in my eyes depending how you ride it. The k3's should last 1500/2000 miles of your thrashing, if not more. You sacrifice durability a bit seeing as the grip is very high when tyres are hot. Should get two rears to one front. What kinda wheels you running, forged or standard cast?
 
With regards to the original question,here is part of bmw's original statement:

"there arevarious alternatives available in terms of wheels/tyres(cast/forged,190/200).
For the control systems(ABS,DTC etc) to operate satisfactorily,it is essential that the correct tyre size has been encoded on the vehicle".

"This is because incorrect encoding results in detrimental effects in the operation of the traction control system:
Incorrect encoding in the case of the 190 tyre leads to detrimental effects in comfort in terms of the traction control system(pumping)
Incorrect encoding in the case of the 200 tyre leads to losses in forward momentum for the traction control system".

Whist I have never noticed any detrimental effects using a 190 tyre,the traction control definitely holds the bike back if a 200 tyre is used whilst the ecu is set for a 190(although,to be fair this is only likely to be noticed on track).

IMO,peace of mind,via a quick visit to the dealer,for a reset is the best option.

Regarding Oponeo,yes their tyres are sometimes the previous years but I would assume they are stored better than the ones overwintered on our bikes!
 
Oponeo

All the Metzeler race tyres I received earlier this month from Oponeo were date stamped mid-2016 on the sidewall.
 
Is there a very noticeable difference between 190 and a 200 rear? Or is it just a feel good factor knowing there will be more contact between surface and tyre
 
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Tyre Size

You unlikely to notice any discernible difference between rear tyre sizes unless your on track and your suspension is well set up.
 

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