Rusty Sump cover & faulty switches

[rusty]

Yup, I'm on my third one and there is no fault with them...apparently.

 

[mart]

has nobody tried fitting an Anode of any sort to see if that remedies it..?

 

[larrybyrne]

One week before my 6,000 mile service my set/trip & indicator switch failed. Cannon at Braintree acknowledged that it was a problem they were aware of. They replaced the switches on both sides free of charge. They said that since BMW had started using these switches in 2010 they have been a problem. It makes you wonder why they are still using them on 2013 bikes!

 

[Explorer]

Let's hope they stop using them on 2014 ones.

 

[RossHarper]

Let's hope they stop using them on 2014 ones.

The 2014's do have a new design with this fault apparently fixed. mine is being changed soon to these switches as left side is faulty again. bike was out of warranty in sept but parts are free just have to pay 1hr labour

 

[mart]

well i had to give the Q-Bond a go....works for me...

 

[Godzilla]

What's Q-bond?

 

[mart]

its bloody amazing stuff...used it b4 on plastic fairings so i thought i'd give it a go being as it sez it sticks anything..

theres 2 parts to it..1 is like a graphite filling and the others the glue, simply tip the powder where you want it then apply the glue to soak through...it is advised to do it in small patches to allow the glue to soak through properly..

i think i did about 5 layers to build it up to where i wanted it.... watch your fingers cos 2 mins after you apply the glue you can sand it "I ended up using a small detail file cos it was that tuff to sand"...

 

[rusty]

Oooo does it smell nice, be interested to see how well it holds up as may need something like this when BMW won't replace mine any more.

 

[mart]

still got the head spinners from the stink of it lol.... yep i'll keep you updated on how it wears... I think if I could of had mine fixed under warranty I would of taken it off and done the same b4 the mold sets in.....

 

[Explorer]

You would think with a full belly pan on and the sump covered in ACF50 or something similar, that would stop any corrosion. Is it the winter salt doing this or does it happen in summer to ?

 

[fatbob]

What's Q-bond?

It's superglue and some filings......works well on ABS plastic repairs as well

 

[chorsley]

Lefthand switch failure for me today no indicator trip, booked in for Wednesday both sides being replaced under warranty.

 

[rusty]

You would think with a full belly pan on and the sump covered in ACF50 or something similar, that would stop any corrosion. Is it the winter salt doing this or does it happen in summer to ?

All year round.

 

[Shug]

You would think with a full belly pan on and the sump covered in ACF50 or something similar, that would stop any corrosion. Is it the winter salt doing this or does it happen in summer to ?

Having had a good poke about with the lower fairings etc now, I think it's a design issue as much as a materials one. The fairing itself seems to sook up water - there are fins designed to scoop air into where the sump/exhaust is - water off the front wheel will be guided up into the bellypan and not away, round the sides. There's also a head shield that bolts round the sump, protecting the oil from the exhaust heat - it sits really close to the base of the sump, especially around the sump plug, where they seem to go. This combo seems to have water collecting in the heat shield, which can contact at the base of the sump - so if you ride at all in the wet, it could potentially sit with water between the two metals (assume the heatshield is ally) for ages. Might just be the water next to the sump, or could even be a reaction being set up through the water with the dissimilar metals.

It does seem to be a design made for dry climates, not ours...

 

[Pod]

I'm on my second rr now. First one (2011) had the sump replaced after 6 months & 1200 miles. I had it in total for 2 yrs and had 3 sets of LH switchgear, and 2 right.
The last set they put on were an updated part no from the 2012 bikes which seemed a BIT better. It was on 11k when I got rid.

2013 bike is on 1k, and touch wood, is ok so far.

 

[jovie]

I've had my bike for over 4 years and 12000 miles now.
AFAIK the sump has never been replaced, but I am on my third set of switches now.
This doesn't bother me at all, because if there is a problem and it is acknowledged then all is well.
I would not agree to paying for the replacement switches as it is a known fault and should really be a recall, in fact it might be a discretionary recall at the moment because when mine was last replaced in May, when I spoke to the dealer about it when it went in, he just said 'oh yeah we will replace that, they are now using a new design which shouldn't fail.'
If my sump cover should fail now I don't see how I could have much recourse to comlain given the age and mileage.

 

[RossHarper]

Everyone needs to do what BMW have done to the 14 model to help reduce the sump problem. Remove the heat shield, it collects water and quickens the corrosion. If you have a full exhaust system you probably removed your anyway, but BM are doing it on the 14 model even with the CAT.

Sump will still corrode but BMW think it will last longer without the shield on. Mine had shield removed at 1000 miles and my sump lasted bang on 10k.

 

[Trumpetman21]

Just a note to add that the LH switchgear has failed...again....lost the right indicator and high beam on Thursday morning riding to work.

Phoned Williams Bikes and the earliest it can be looked at is mid August, but at least it's being replaced FOC. It's due a service shortly after that (4 year being a 10-plate) so I'll get that done at the same time. Service cost is ?192 if anyone's interested.

 

[Trumpetman21]

Heap of **** wouldn't start when I left work today, seems that the RH switchgear is now defective.

Arsebiscuits.

Probably bikeless now until the 16th August....