Rear shock

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sockets

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Has anyone removed/replaced a rear shock on 2012 model?
I have a TTX36 BM930 to replace my OE shock.
Trying to save a bit of cash fitting it myself before I take it in to be set up.
Anyone had their OE springs replaced with 30mm?
Cheers
 
Yes it takes about an hour and a half to do. You need a pair of axel stands on the foot pegs (once you've turned them over, so they are upside down). You will also have to move the seat sub frame, take the tank off, remove the bolts to the frame/bottom sub frame and hinge the whole sub frame upwards when you finally remove the shock. Otherwise, a simple job.

I changed my shock for a Nitron a couple of weeks ago, plus I have some 30mm Ohlins Cartridges to go in the forks sometime after Christmas.
 
Out of interest for self reference arg, which Nitron did you fit and why? the 1-way or 3-way ?

The 1 way is an inferior shock to the standard and the 3 way doesn't offer anything over the standard other than the name and the wonderful turquoise colour.
 
The standard shock has far too much compression damping, so the 1 way is actually better. Plus the nitron can be rebuilt . I brought the 3 way though.
 
Even on minimum setting the standard had to much compression damping for you?

I've had to do work to the forks because they suck as standard (springs, valves and heavy weight oil) but I'm pleasantly surprised by the rear shock even with my 21+ stone it's spot on.
 
i way around 17st and had to uprate the springs front and rear, i went up 1 spring rate in the front and up 2 on the rear the differance is like night day although i still find the rear very unforgiving but much better than it was
 
Chorsley I went to 10.5 K-tech springs in front with valves and 10w Motul oil (to improve damping) but with the standard rear spring (which is apparently 8.5) takes me perfectly. 30ml sag with 8ml free sag and enough travel left in spring to handle 90% of bumps in roads.
 
pretty sure 2011 v's 2012 the sussies are different.

I also ran a 10.5 rear spring....was lovely.
had to loose some weight for other reasons in the end
 
pretty sure 2011 v's 2012 the sussies are different.

I also ran a 10.5 rear spring....was lovely.
had to loose some weight for other reasons in the end

There were rumors on american sites when the S1000 came out the rear spring rate was stiff to combat extreme squatting under acceleration. Perhaps changed in 2012+ models
 
Thanks Arg - will give it a go after Christmas.
I have a 1jac dual lift which should work well as it lifts front and rear at the same time.
Where did you get your cartridges from - I can only afford springs now I reckon after my rear shock outlay!
Cheers.
 
Thanks Arg - will give it a go after Christmas.
I have a 1jac dual lift which should work well as it lifts front and rear at the same time.
Where did you get your cartridges from - I can only afford springs now I reckon after my rear shock outlay!
Cheers.

I picked them up cheapish second hand from the usa, via evilbay including springs.
 
If the rear wheel is out you do not need to remove the subframe or tank.The shock will come out but you need to turn it as you do-possibly pay to put a few layers of tape on the swingarm just in case.
 
If the rear wheel is out you do not need to remove the subframe or tank.The shock will come out but you need to turn it as you do-possibly pay to put a few layers of tape on the swingarm just in case.

Is that with an aftermarket full exhaust, because with the standard exhaust the swingarm hardly drops down at all?
 
Is that with an aftermarket full exhaust, because with the standard exhaust the swingarm hardly drops down at all?

Good question,that's with full exhaust,however I can't believe the standard exhaust would stop the shock coming out.The main problem is access to the lower bolt. Remove the top bolt,ease the shock up as high as it will go which should just give clearance to undo the lower bolt.When re-fitting I fit the bolt from the other side.
 
Hi Baz,
Did my ohlins y'day and it was easy with a quality torx set, sockets and combi spanners.
I left myself both options as I have a full akro system fitted which I had taken off to clean anyway (end can only) as connecting pipe was tight and didn't seem like it wanted to come off without alot of effing about!
Through the top was easy and there is enough slack on the fuel pipe to be able to rest the tank on top of the bike having undone the necessary fixings.
If anyone needs a detailed step by step guide (right down to the last cable tie) I will be happy to oblige!
Don't think it's possible to remove it through the bottom if cat is still fitted but who wants one of them anyway - LOL!
Thanks to Baz for initial advice
 

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