rear seat cowl 2015 lock

[illetas]

Hi all , I've got a 2015 with a seat cowl and i have bought a rear seat off flea bay to sit my tail pack on and Thought that I could take the lock from my cowl and put it in the seat as I will only use the seat on long trips , but I've just had a quick look and the locks seem to fit differently can anyone shed some light on it or am I just being dim cheers

 

[Stephen]

The lock barrel is the same but the lock itself is different unfortunately. I did the same thing and ended up buying a lock for the seat ?46 quid! But your local dealer may code the new barrel to match if you ask nicely

 

[illetas]

Thanks Stephen, we both made that boo boo then! nice to see another black 2015 owner . cheers

 

[alex]

Can you clarify this Stephen.

Are the Cowl locks from a 2012 to a 2015 compatible? Ie if I wanted to fit a 2015 one on a 2012 would the original lock transfer over?

 

[Stephen]

Can you clarify this Stephen. Are the Cowl locks from a 2012 to a 2015 compatible? Ie if I wanted to fit a 2015 one on a 2012 would the original lock transfer over?

I don't have my cowl to hand to check however on the '15 cowl the lock isn't a replaceable part, the barrel can be changed but if the lock breaks it's a new cowl.

So if you buy a genuine 2015 cowl it should come with the lock and therefore will fit your bike? The barrel will just swap over I think


EDIT: It appears i am completely wrong there. just looked on the parts fiche, there is a 'mounting kit stool cover'

part number:

77318520252

This fits all models

 

[alex]

Interesting... I have a fake with no lock coming...we'll see what happens...

 

[TheFlymo]

Did exactly the same- bought a seat assuming I could use the lock assembly from the cowl. :culpability:

Had to buy another seat with all the correct gubbins. Got one with a barrel though so I can swap seat/cowl quickly. No need to get BMW to recode the barrel though, it's easy- check Youtube, or here:

http://www.mototrip-tours.com/blog/workshop/rekeying-bmw-case-locks/

I ended up having one less tumbler as the donor barrel didn't have the exact selection to match my key, but for a cowl I'm not too bothered. Thieves just ripped the whole thing off when they nicked the bike anyway!

 

[MacRR]

Hmm, I unscrewed the lock assembly from the cowl on my bike and simply swapped it in to the S1000R pillion seat I had from my previous bike, 2 minute job. I can see there might be an issue using a pattern cowl that has nowhere to screw the lock assembly into but it shouldn't be a problem if you're interchanging genuine BMW seats and cowls?

 

[TheFlymo]

Hmm, I unscrewed the lock assembly from the cowl on my bike and simply swapped it in to the S1000R pillion seat I had from my previous bike, 2 minute job. I can see there might be an issue using a pattern cowl that has nowhere to screw the lock assembly into but it shouldn't be a problem if you're interchanging genuine BMW seats and cowls?

Yeah the barrel is easily swappable. As per the OP, by "lock assembly" I mean the rest of the gubbins that fits onto the seat with three screws. A lot of seats on eBay come without that stuff.

 

[Benny130]

Sorry resurrect. Has anyone recoded a seat lock. The instructions above are good but don't seem to work for me. I've got the barrel out of the seat but can't get any of the tumblers out of the lock to recode. Anyone have any idea?

 

[alex]

Each pin in the bag has a number.
1/2/3
Put 1 in every slot top and bottom. You'll need to hold them in place.
Stick the key in and see which hold flush with barrel when you let go. Once you know the ones which go flush, take out the ones that don't or mark on the barrel where to stick them later.
Repeat the process with 2/3 pins.
Eventually you should be able to stick the pins in and have the key hold them all flush (except the one which locks the barrel into the seat.
Leave the key in and insert the lot into the seat.
Make sure the locking pin seats.

You're done.

Imo you don't need more than 6 correct pins for a decent seat lock.


- Sent from Mobile

 

[Benny130]

Thanks Alex. I get that bit but I can't get the tumblers out of the current lock. Do I need to get an additional lock barrel and then code it to my key? I.e. Is the current lock not able to be recoded?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[alex]

Some locks are not re-codable.
If they don't fall out you have one of them.


- Sent from Mobile

 

[Benny130]

Bugger. Thanks!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Flyingscotsman]

You can recode the newer locks. You need to remove the metal 'cap' on end of cylinder nearest to where you insert the key. It is 'crimped'' in place. You can remove prising crimps with a small screwdriver & removing cap with pliers or a mole grip. When you remove the cap there is a pin underneath. If you remove the pin then the tumblers can be removed. You need to recrimp on refitting.

 

[alex]

Or pay 17? for a codeable lock with plenty of spare pins/springs.
Breaking open one of the clamped versions is a false economy as you need to three types of pin.


- Sent from Mobile

 

[Flyingscotsman]

Alex, you are correct that new tumblers are required. I think the recodeable barrel is about ?45 &comes with a surplus of spare tumblers. I bought one for my Hepco & Becker sports rack. I then used the spare tumblers to recode the seat cowl lock as above.

 

[ryden2110]

I paid ?16.25 for my lock cylinder and tumbler kit from Bahnstormer maidenhead.

Part no. C51.25.7.698.204 if anyone needs it.

 

[Flyingscotsman]

I stand corrected about the cost of cylinder chaps!

 

[Kennybush]

Does anybody know the part numbers and price for the metal bridge that holds the lock in place, and the metal blade/plastic clip that goes on the end of the barrel?