How intrusive is anti-wheely in Race Mode?

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mk1

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I got a scare making a pass on a group of cars when anti-wheely in Sport Mode cut the power to drop the front and almost stopped me safely completing the overtake, even though I was no-where near flipping the thing or spinning the rear. It was uphill so maybe that's why it freaked out early. So I switched to User Mode and changed things to stop it happening again. Will Race Mode really allow the front to come up and stay there like it says in the manual? 2015 bike.
 
The race mode anti wheelie setting works well, goes up a bit but nothing untoward and definitely less likely to cut power over bumps or undulations.
 
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Slick anti wheelie is the only one to avoid, as it?s literally ?off? for something like 4 seconds so you could easily flip it
 
Most welcome! Personally, I would whole heartedly recommend playing around with the settings in User mode. To access it, select it from the right hand switch gear and then you can access the user mode configuration options using the left hand switch gear in settings.

It?s basically a customisable mode, so say you like the throttle response in the default ?race? mode, but the traction control in slick etc., you can pick and choose the elements you like from each of the default riding modes.
I ended up just leaving the bike in User mode and never changing, as you can adjust the traction control through 14 levels level depending on weather conditions anyway, without having to change mode.

From memory, I liked:
DDC - Sport (UK roads ?)
Engine - Race (as still retains the engine breaking)
ABS - Race (still retains anti-endo and rear activity)
DTC - Slick (less intrusive when leant over, makes a big difference)
 
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Nice one thanks for that Oli I?ll best that in mind I only changed over on Sunday so I?ve not had much chance to get used to it yet but it definitely felt better in race. When you say dtc is less intrusive in slick mode when leant over is that for the track or the road? Can?t say I?ve noticed anything when I?ve had it leant over but having electronics is new to me
 
Part of the traction control strategy involves restricting the amount of throttle opening the bike allows at a given lean angle. The way to the think of it, is say your traction control is in sport mode, you?re leant over and you roll the throttle fully open. The bike will not fully open the throttle butterflies, because you?re at lean. If you then repeat this in race mode, the throttle butterflies will open a bit more at the same lean angle. In slick mode (or slick traction control setting in user mode), this feature is reduced considerably.

Don?t worry about the term ?slick?, the standard ECU is very much catered for road bikes, so even if you run very minimal traction control, you?ve still got a decent amount of safety net in the back ground (on a dry day ?).

On a dry day, on road, with decent sport touring or general sport tyres, I used to enjoy Slick DTC -4 the most, as I found it gave a good feeling of connection between your throttle input and the rear wheel so to speak. @preynol1 and I did a test on a bit of road I know well ages ago and compared the difference between Race and Slick DTC in terms of driving out of corners, was apparently quite a difference
 
Oh and in User mode, all do the DTC modes are 14 way adjustable, from +7 to -7 (no idea why they chose that!)
 
The throttle response is just great in race mode. I tend to lean on the excellent electronics on the gen3, I?m not brave or skilled enough to be in total control ??. With wheelie control though, things do get a lot livelier when opening the throttle steadily instead of going WOT immediately. Presumably the TC say no and limits the power? I do love a good wheelie, just wish I could control the buggers?
 

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