Heating a brick built single garage

S1000RR  FORUM

Help Support S1000RR FORUM:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

alex

Forum Moderator
Staff member
Admin
Moderator
Joined
Apr 29, 2014
Messages
12,675
Reaction score
168
Location
London and Norfolk
If I want to heat my garage when I am in there, would I be better off with an Infrared unit or a panel heater?
I don't want to use anything that blows hot air (I do enough of that) or burns anything other than electricity and I'm not going to hook it up to the wet central heating.
 
Last edited:
I use a 2kw fan heater, thermostatically controlled and heats my garage up in seconds cheap to buy ?15.00.. Why do you not want to use something like that, probably cheapest and easiest solution.

Sent from my SM-G998B using Tapatalk
 
The problem with infra red heaters is that they heat surfaces, which can cause an issue if you have items about that are pressurised.

I used to use an oil-filled electric heater, but a fan one like stu suggests isnt a bad option. Stick a smart plug on the end of it and get the room warmed up in advance!
 
In mine it would end up pushing dust around everywhere... OK maybe it's not a bad option for a fan....
Thanks for the thoughts in IR.
 
I use the cheapest type 2kw electric heaters. And wire a room stat inline.

Now the new garage has 2 1000mm double rads on thermostats linked to house downstairs heating. That's a game changer
 
Ha if I was staying in this house for the long term I'd deffo consider going there (central heating hook up), but this is definitely and interim property
 
issue with IR is that they are directional focussed, so if you directly in front of then bobs ya uncle, outside of the direction not so good in my experience. also i got rid of mine due to the inconsistency of the IR on your body long term.
Mut
 
Give the place a good clean out and get some nice Grey floor paint down Alex.. helps tremendously when your brushing up..easy to spot dirt and dropped washers/nuts etc

Sent from my SM-G998B using Tapatalk
 
I got my spark to wire three up..I didn't want any shadows when I had a bike up on the ramp..I wanted one directly above and two side by side..typically they only had two of one style and one of the other.. I can't recall the output but it will be similar to those.. 7200 is in my head but I'd need to go look.. the no shadows thing works a treat...
afd722560c0b6a065bd93631b23d6b4e.jpg
cf2283b1c1cd2fa048216e8e79e2d04e.jpg
fd24af37ff8a2d2eff2efbf470334182.jpg


Sent from my SM-G998B using Tapatalk
 
Yeah same trying to eliminate shadows and have it bright enough for detailing.



Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 
Go for three for all the additional cost and buy a ramp..best money you'll spend on piece of garage equipment..

Sent from my SM-G998B using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Might be worth insulating the roof space.

I've got a single skin brick garage and they do lose a lot of heat (get damp too). The floor I have sealed and then covered in an Epoxy paint. But the best thing i have done it stick a ceiling in using cheap/thin/light hardboard and insulated the back of the boards using foil bubble insulation. (Similar to what they use in vans) Warmer in the winter, cooler in the summer and less moisture and dust too. (But i installed to airbricks too help air circulation)
 
Might be worth insulating the roof space.

I've got a single skin brick garage and they do lose a lot of heat (get damp too). The floor I have sealed and then covered in an Epoxy paint. But the best thing i have done it stick a ceiling in using cheap/thin/light hardboard and insulated the back of the boards using foil bubble insulation. (Similar to what they use in vans) Warmer in the winter, cooler in the summer and less moisture and dust too. (But i installed to airbricks too help air circulation)

Yep if your loosing the heat up you might as well not bother
 
To insulate your roof you could try :-
https://www.screwfix.com/p/ybs-superquilt-multi-layer-reflective-foil-insulation-10-x-1-5m/68120

it has similar U-Values to 75mm of PIR insulation board ie Kingspan etc, extensions only require 150mm so you be nearly achieving half of that. Just be aware that it needs an air gap to work and also it acts a vapour barrier so you would need to allow cross airflow at the perimeters or the roof, otherwise the roof could rot from the inside out. But it?s really good stuff and I would imagine far superior product to the cheaper stuff as this is Local Building Authority approved.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top