MikePotteRR
Well-known member
Thanks Ryan. Do you have a link to the service manual at all?
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- Thread starter MikePotteRR
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MikePotteRR
Well-known member
Glad you found an improvement Toan. I'd like to try the dunlops in the future as from what I understand they grip like mad and have pretty good longevity. Win win
MikePotteRR
Well-known member
Perfect. Just to clarify, you mentioned preload issues for the front. For me to hit a traditional sag number I need around 6-8 turns of preload on the front. My zip tie shoes I am using a all but 20mm (I've not softened compression at this point) of travel. To get to BMWS recommended setting of 10-15mm I will be around 1/2 turns of preload.
Did you have a similiar issue with the preload before changing? I am going for to the same springs as yourself so im hoping you are using a more conventional sag number rather than the BMW mesurement of spring deflection?
Did you have a similiar issue with the preload before changing? I am going for to the same springs as yourself so im hoping you are using a more conventional sag number rather than the BMW mesurement of spring deflection?
MikePotteRR
Well-known member
The fork cartridge has arrived. Should be installing it tonight/tomorrow and will be out tomorrow afternoon and Sunday. I'll pop another update on here with the outcome.
MikePotteRR
Well-known member
HI all. So the HP4 cartridge has been installed along with new fork oil. The bike has only done 3750 miles and the fork oil was quite dirty. Setting Sag witj 5 turns of preload set me at 42mm with the bike at 30mm. From a "traditional" point of view, much better numbers.
So I set out for a test run. The bike is much better and you can really feel what the front is doing and how far it is tipping into the corner and how much harder you can push it. As an example, when trail braking I can now feel when the DDC is reacting heading for the Apex. This does feel strange at first but only helps build confidence as it reacts the same time and time again and you know it is helping to keep you upright.
I had been in discussion with Dave Moss who recommended I loosen the rear preload a touch, so I went down to 5 turns. I tried this and the bike was lifting the front hard on the power.
After a run I found I was coming close to bottoming the front (zip tie), after some trail braking test. I increased preload both on the front and rear to 8 turns. The bike instantly felt better on drive with just leaps forward with no headshaking etc. The front did feel a touch "stiff" so I have dropped back to 6 turns. I may need to go back up to 8 at the track to give me extra support when braking from higher speeds.
So my setup so far is;
Rider ~87kg in gear (13.2 Stone excluding gear)
Front - 9.5Nm springs left and right
Preload - 6 turns
Forks height - 3mm Gold showing above triple
Damping (0). I have tested my 2D sensor at -1 Comp and +2 Rebound but this is probably better suited to the track.
Rear
9.5 spring (standard)
Shock Eccentric - Flipped - Bolt at top to reduce rear ride height.
Preload - 8 turns
Compression +1
Rebound +1
I am now much happier with the front end and can point the bike where I like. It takes a little muscle to start a turn but after that it is bob on. I can always get some after market clip ons to give me more leverage. The jury is still out on the rear ride height. I will try the eccentric back at stock (bolt down) as this definitely affects turn in but I think the extra stability on power and how the bike leaves a corner now is worth the trade off. I will be putting the eccentric back to stock as a back to back for comparison.
All in all a happy Mike.
So I set out for a test run. The bike is much better and you can really feel what the front is doing and how far it is tipping into the corner and how much harder you can push it. As an example, when trail braking I can now feel when the DDC is reacting heading for the Apex. This does feel strange at first but only helps build confidence as it reacts the same time and time again and you know it is helping to keep you upright.
I had been in discussion with Dave Moss who recommended I loosen the rear preload a touch, so I went down to 5 turns. I tried this and the bike was lifting the front hard on the power.
After a run I found I was coming close to bottoming the front (zip tie), after some trail braking test. I increased preload both on the front and rear to 8 turns. The bike instantly felt better on drive with just leaps forward with no headshaking etc. The front did feel a touch "stiff" so I have dropped back to 6 turns. I may need to go back up to 8 at the track to give me extra support when braking from higher speeds.
So my setup so far is;
Rider ~87kg in gear (13.2 Stone excluding gear)
Front - 9.5Nm springs left and right
Preload - 6 turns
Forks height - 3mm Gold showing above triple
Damping (0). I have tested my 2D sensor at -1 Comp and +2 Rebound but this is probably better suited to the track.
Rear
9.5 spring (standard)
Shock Eccentric - Flipped - Bolt at top to reduce rear ride height.
Preload - 8 turns
Compression +1
Rebound +1
I am now much happier with the front end and can point the bike where I like. It takes a little muscle to start a turn but after that it is bob on. I can always get some after market clip ons to give me more leverage. The jury is still out on the rear ride height. I will try the eccentric back at stock (bolt down) as this definitely affects turn in but I think the extra stability on power and how the bike leaves a corner now is worth the trade off. I will be putting the eccentric back to stock as a back to back for comparison.
All in all a happy Mike.
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Hi Mike, Good stuff, can we add the rider weight to this list though to complete the picture? (I can edit it an add it in)
MikePotteRR
Well-known member
Hi Alex. I'm 13 stone 2 excluding gear.
Thanks 
. - great record, thanks for putting it together and you're about 3 bags of sugar lighter than me so this should work for me too.
. - great record, thanks for putting it together and you're about 3 bags of sugar lighter than me so this should work for me too.MikePotteRR
Well-known member
Your welcome mate. Hopefully it can help out, although like Ryan says, setup can be quite personal. I tend to prefer carrying a higher corner entry speed but it seems the bike as stock is more point and shoot.
I think you're right, after all stopping and going are it's fort?! I can't use your settings anyway till after it's been to MCT for a fettle...as I have the stock spring rates till then. But this has been a useful thread anyway.
I just spoke to MCT and they have advised I leave the Pre-load wound fully out on the stock setup at Jerez. This means it only has the 8mm of preload that is built in.
MikePotteRR
Well-known member
Dave Moss advised to have the preload all out and to run the damping at -2 to +1 for my weight.
kk - yes that makes sense I've only got half way down the forks so far without playing with the damping levels.
I have the 2D Pot Sensor on the front. -2 on the front will be a good start point.
I have the 2D Pot Sensor on the front. -2 on the front will be a good start point.
MikePotteRR
Well-known member
The great thing with the bike is the brake meter on the dash. If you are using all of the travel and the brake meter is moving much then you have an issue. Conversely, if the meter shows you are properly braking hard (like 8/9 ms2) and you aren't using all your travel then there is room to play with. I do tend to find when braking really hard the forks tend to really stiffen up and only when trail braking do they let you use more of the travel so it can get confusing. The fun is all in the experimentation.
Nibs
Member
Took mine into MCT on Wednesday....... honestly what a transformation. Darren has worked his black magic and made the '16 S1000RR simply amazing. Feel from the front now floods your brain, it's absolutely brilliant now I CANNOT wait to get her on track. Best money I've spent on a bike since the last time I went to MCT, if you want to know how good MCT are..... there fully booked now till July. Enough said!
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Eddie
Well-known member
Nibs, Did Darren do anything with the shock or just the front end? Do you know exactly what he did re spring rate, oil, air gap etc?
I spoke with him the other day but he's a bit far away for me to visit, wish I was closer. If I don't get anything sorted this year I'll send my forks/shock to him over winter.
I spoke with him the other day but he's a bit far away for me to visit, wish I was closer. If I don't get anything sorted this year I'll send my forks/shock to him over winter.
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Eddie
Well-known member
I should add I'm not after his trade secrets, just some confirmation that I'm going down the right road.
Nibs
Member
He set the sag at the rear and that was it besides the settings. At the front it was air gap and springs, oil plus sag and settings obviously, it has transformed the bike. He did separate set ups for motorway (Rain), fast road (Sport), and track (Race/Slick ). I did a 300 mile round trip and it was worth every mile, it's the second time I've used MCT and it won't be the last.
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Eddie
Well-known member
Cheers Nibs, everybody seems to be pointing me in the same direction and confirming some of the things I figured out. Need a bit more track time before spending any cash.
I'm around 80kg and think I'm going to go for 9.5s or 10s in the front.
Out of interest what was the total cost?
I'm around 80kg and think I'm going to go for 9.5s or 10s in the front.
Out of interest what was the total cost?
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Nibs
Member
It was ?352 and worth every penny. I've been out on it today and gave her a good go on different roads and it's near as dam it perfect. Honestly its turn a great bike into something very very special, its stable, floods me with feed back, especially from the front which i found was terrible as standard and goes exactly where it's pointed now. I cannot wait to get her on track again 
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