Brake fluid - Brake bleeding - which type

[flight]

I need to change my brake fluid on my s1000. Is it a brake fluid change like any other or does the abs complicate things?

also… what fluid do you guys use?

 

[andybarsblade]

I went to Pidcocks BMW and asked them what fluid they recommend and they sold me some BMW stuff that's standard in the bike. Used it on track a few times with no problems. It was dirt cheap too

 

[flight]

going to put some dot 5.1 (not sure if thats standard). I can bleed brakes myself but im concerned that the ABS will need doing to so may have to go to a specialist...

 

[andybarsblade]

I wouldn't get hung up on the dot rating a good Dot 4 fluid is fine. 5.1 is just a thinner viscosity than 4 it doesn't mean a higher boiling point.

 

[RossHarper]

Standard is DOT4, it's written on top of both brake reservoir lids and in manual.

I've not done my own yet, BM did it on last service and doesn't need changing yet. I've read a pressure bleeder is best (don't quote me but it's what I've read)

 

[RossHarper]

(wouldn't copy correctly. the top line should all be moved 1 column to the right)

Dry boiling point	Wet boiling point	Viscosity limit	Primary constituent
DOT 2	190 °C (374 °F)	140 °C (284 °F)	?	Castor oil/alcohol
DOT 3	205 °C (401 °F)	140 °C (284 °F)	1500 mm2/s	Glycol Ether
DOT 4	230 °C (446 °F)	155 °C (311 °F)	1800 mm2/s	Glycol Ether/Borate Ester
DOT 5	260 °C (500 °F)	180 °C (356 °F)	900 mm2/s	Silicone
DOT 5.1	260 °C (500 °F)	180 °C (356 °F)	900 mm2/s	Glycol Ether/Borate Ester

 

[andybarsblade]

(wouldn't copy correctly. the top line should all be moved 1 column to the right)

Dry boiling point	Wet boiling point	Viscosity limit	Primary constituent
DOT 2	190 °C (374 °F)	140 °C (284 °F)	?	Castor oil/alcohol
DOT 3	205 °C (401 °F)	140 °C (284 °F)	1500 mm2/s	Glycol Ether
DOT 4	230 °C (446 °F)	155 °C (311 °F)	1800 mm2/s	Glycol Ether/Borate Ester
DOT 5	260 °C (500 °F)	180 °C (356 °F)	900 mm2/s	Silicone
DOT 5.1	260 °C (500 °F)	180 °C (356 °F)	900 mm2/s	Glycol Ether/Borate Ester

Not always the case. You should always check the manufacturer specs for example:

All dot 4
Motul RBF 660 Dry = 325 wet = 204
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1078-motul-rbf-660-factory-line-race-brake-fluid.aspx

Motul RBF 600 Dry = 312 wet = 216
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-894-motul-rbf-600-factory-line-racing-brake-fluid.aspx

Castol SRF Dry = 320 wet = 270
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-740-castrol-react-srf-racing-brake-fluid.aspx

Dot 5.1

Motul Dot 5.1 Dry = 270 wet = 185
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-893-motul-dot-51-brake-fluid-long-life-100-synthetic.aspx

Gulf 5.1 Dry = 260 wet = 180
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-69377-gulf-racing-brake-fluid-dot-51.aspx

 

[andybarsblade]

RBF 600/660 is the way to go best performance for the price

 

[RossHarper]

I sit corrected Andy. Was just a table i've always kind of taken for granted from Wiki (dumb me)

 

[Niven770]

I have never changed fluid on the S1000rr but it's something i'm interested in hearing how it goes.

From what I understand it can be a real bitch due to the ABS module ?

Davy

 

[flight]

I have never changed fluid on the S1000rr but it's something i'm interested in hearing how it goes.

From what I understand it can be a real bitch due to the ABS module ?

Davy

thats what i hear...

 

[flight]

thats what i hear...

me too… happening tomorrow… wish me luck.

 

[Godzilla]

Remember to take loads of photos for a 'How To...'

Good luck.

 

[flight]

They used a machine… Looked a bit like a spray painting gun. They sucked and filled and sucked and filled and sucked…
Cleaned calipers too… Pads still binding. Im frustrated . The pads were slightly low so im hoping new pads will stop the binding… If not… I dont know what Im going to do.

 

[RossHarper]

flight... have you got the oem brake lever or an aftermarket?

I've heard some of the aftermarket levers can cause the brakes to bind because the master cylinder nipple is ever so slightly pressed in more with some aftermarket levers and as the pads get hotter and hotter from the rubbing on disc they can bind.

 

[ekdg]

flight... have you got the oem brake lever or an aftermarket?

I've heard some of the aftermarket levers can cause the brakes to bind because the master cylinder nipple is ever so slightly pressed in more with some aftermarket levers and as the pads get hotter and hotter from the rubbing on disc they can bind.

I once tried a pair of cheap levers and had this issue, they were on the bike for less than a mile

 

[Shug]

I have a pair of cheap levers and to be fair, it took a bloody age to get the nipple to seat properly in the pivot on the lever - there is a depression that seats it. If you didn't know it was there, or didn't get it quite straight, which would be easy to do, then it would definitely drag the brakes. No brake dragging with it seated right.

 

[yam-andy]

This happened on a mates bike at track, we tried a few thinks, in the end just changed pads and it was spot on.

 

[RossHarper]

I once tried a pair of cheap levers and had this issue, they were on the bike for less than a mile

I've got a pair of China ebay levers on and I had this problem. It's an easy fix, i used my dremel and ground the MC nipple down by less than a mm and its perfect.

 

[flight]

Changed pads, changed fluid… Now i HAVE a JUDDER!!!!! So many problems… never had any of these issues with my R1. What should I do now? Im going take pads out and put them back in. See if it cures the judder. My friend said that I should loosen the pinch bolts then push down on the front forks to "set the spindle" . It may be off??? Doing Cadwell monday and tuesday and I just want some peace of mind...