Brake Cooling Ducts

S1000RR  FORUM

Help Support S1000RR FORUM:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Out of interest, what temp would you expect to see any fade. Or is as I suspect that's going to depend on your set up.


PS I did experience brake fade at Mugello last year doing 2.08 laps. SBS DC pads and Motul 660. Hence me starting a brake fluid thread.

I never had any issues at Jerez and Montiblanco.
I did opt for 660 again but will try the castrol next time.
 
Last edited:
bmwbadboy what brake fluid are you using? I never have a brake fade problem when I use a good brake fluid (Castrol SRF) and pads (Vesrah SRJL XX or Brembo Z04). I USE my brakes and saw >650C in Misano when braking but the brake lever travel was very slightly effected. To be honest I never been in Mugello so I speak with my experience in close circuits where brakes are used more but not from 300+km/h.


screen12.jpg


your TC seems to come in very early,almost as soon as throttle is picked up, but even with gentle application
 
That could be PreCut. RS2E maps have this, its active at full lean and in that initial throttle development phase.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 
ahh ok,seems weird holding back when not needed even if your at full lean
 
ahh ok,seems weird holding back when not needed even if your at full lean
Because its fuel cut per cylinder not throttle manipulation. It performs microsecond cuts to give the tyre maximum traction on a conventional 4 stroke firing order. Much like how the flatplane R1 has naturally.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Air ducts or not air ducts? Jajajajaja


OK let me say that it is the last thing I will do to improve my brakes. I suggest after you make sure that you have not air in your brake system, use a very good brake fluid, use the appropriate brake pads, use a good brake pump, learn when and how to use your brakes (it is a really common problem) and you still have an overheating problem then you might use brake cooling ducts (I will not even try to speak about brake rotors). I suspect that if you have all the above as it should, you will not need brake cooling ducts. If you do then you are a very very fast rider.
 
I finally had a moment to fit the Brake Cooling Ducts. Fitting with or without the 2D sensor is easy. Just turn the the top bracket round and it clears the Potentiometer. Tips them slightly up but very little difference.

IMG_4303D.jpegIMG_4304D.jpegI
 
Will do once it's finished. Just trying out bits for fit before striping the bike for a full refurb. Just fitting my mint ebay bargain wheels, Fast Frank quick change tray, my ebay nickel rear underslung caliper and bracket, Aliexpress chain adjusters etc.

IMG_4305D.jpegIMG_4306D.jpegIMG_4308D.jpegIMG_4309D.jpeg
 
Yep, it?ll move the calipers outward 1mm. Go run you hand over the edge of any disc, you feel a raised portion ie an unused area of 1-2mm if the discs are old. It won?t make any difference to your braking. J
 
I finally had a moment to fit the Brake Cooling Ducts. Fitting with or without the 2D sensor is easy. Just turn the the top bracket round and it clears the Potentiometer. Tips them slightly up but very little difference.

View attachment 5845View attachment 5846I
Looking your and mine aren't the same same, because mine is longer in front, no?
Mine are DTRAD.
cc920f546c2b068a9fcc5cc6eeabd08c.jpg
 

Latest posts

Back
Top