2017 S1000RR Exhaust

S1000RR  FORUM

Help Support S1000RR FORUM:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
'Rough as f***...' is how I would describe mine running at idle cold yesterday. It's properly hunting about. So I'm glad I've kept the Bazzaz as I can see it going on, in June just in time for Cadwell.



(awaits comment from Soof)

? Er, I would put your bazzaz in the bin mate. All your troubles with your previous bike started after that was fitted I believe? Why tempt fate.

The ecu should learn and make its own adjustments with that sort of change. BMW told me that the bike ecu does do that, its not a proper remap / tune and undoubtedly a remap is going to change things more dramatically.

I'd see how it settles down over the next hundred miles or so and take it back under warranty if you are not happy with how it is running :).
 
What is classified as a 'silly MOD ' ?
One man's opinion is not another, it's open to interpretation.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
Thanks Andy!

I think the point is - use a proper system, made by a known company to standards - and not your Uncle Geoff.
 
No. The point is, get BMW to confirm in writing that they are content that the system that you get THEM to fit for you is accepted by BMW and that's why they were content to fit it. Then THEY can remove any fault and error codes with their computers, this work is then invoiced, then you guys are completely covered for both warranty and insurance purposes as its BMW modified.
Believe me, I will NOT benefit from this in any way shape or form, as i only build race bikes. but i do spend a hell of a lot of time in those circles.
But if it saves one of yet guys having to fight for your warranty then it's worth while.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
Bringing this back up.

I was all set to get the Bazzaz fitted to my 2017, by HM-Racing. Then today I get a note from them saying that it won't work, because the ECU will throw a code the moment the Lambda's are disconnected.

Hmmm...thinks I.

I've done a quick bit of research and I 'think' (waiting for confirmation) that the only option is the Rapid Bike Evo/Race. And it's for 1 key difference on the usage of the OEM Lambda's.

From the Radpid Bike blurb: Instead trying to eliminate the effect of the lambda (like others) Rapid Bike takes full advantage of the lambda sensor to improve engine efficiency while optimizing fuel consumption. This is achieved by performing a dynamic modulation of the signal sent by the lambda sensor feeding this to the bike's OE ECU and then in turn manipulating the signal sent from the ECU to the injectors. By operating in this closed loop this allows Rapid Bike to be unique in offering re-mapping in the low to medium rpm ranges, the most critical section of the power delivery curve where the lambda sensor is in full control of the fuelling parameters and most of the time a road rider is riding with the throttle in this closed loop range.

This is a different behaviour and I think its key to tuning 2017/Euro 4 bikes whilst the RCK4 is still, vapourware, I believe (either way it introduces a whole other world of issues)

Waiting on a couple of calls back but assuming that's the case. I'll be selling the Bazzaz and getting the Rapid Bike system which, usefully I've seen for sale at Bahnstormers so I know they will be cool with it.
 
Last edited:
I ran rapid bike on my race bikes as it does ignition aswell and the box can be used on any bike with the correct loom, downside is there are limited amounts of people that can map this system well. . However my question is... Why are you even fitting this? The bike can be fuelled enough without add on hardware.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
I ran rapid bike on my race bikes as it does ignition aswell and the box can be used on any bike with the correct loom, downside is there are limited amounts of people that can map this system well. . However my question is... Why are you even fitting this? The bike can be fuelled enough without add on hardware.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

I'd like to fix the 'hunting' it does, baffle out, and improve the midrange pull. (I have the Akra system if you recall).
 
Alex, at the risk of sounding unadventurous why are you messing about with the exhaust and fueling on a new bike? I can't believe you need the extra performance, why compromise the warranty and reliability at this stage mate.
 
Is it possible that fitting simply header pipes will improve it more than any fiddling and the expense of a full system?

Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
 
Just to confirm I have the full Akra S-B10R3-CZT system already fitted, as I had to decat to fit race fairings in April...

A BMW dealer did that work, there was no issue with warranty.
 
If get up and go is what you want then throwing a 16T front sprocket is worth a thought. Makes cruising at speed less happy obviously...
 
I fitted an Akra full ti system to my 2017 last week so that I can fit race fairings. To ensure engine is operating within safe parameters, I decided to fit a fuelling controller and after reading Jays thread, I opted for a Rapid Bike Racing.

I purchased this from Performance Parts and they supplied the unit with Jays map on it. I intended to then dyno the bike to check the fuelling but had a trackday booked first so planned to do that first then go on the dyno after.

The trackday was wet and I ran the bike in rain mode so was not able to get a feel for the pull through the range and top end power. However what I did discover was a few issues with the bike.

There were two occasions where the bike stalled trying to pull away - when I asked for revs, the bike spluttered and died. A switch off and back on rectified the issue both times.

Exiting the pits, I changed to second and after rolling on a neutral throttle, I asked for power and there was a lull before the power kicked in. This occurred on two seperate occasions. The bike ran fine after on both sessions.

The bike stalled when entering the pits and pulling in the clutch as I came to a standstill.

Needless to say, I was a bit concerned after the trackday and eager to get the bike on the dyno.

My bike spent three hours on the dyno yesterday primarily to diagnose these issues and ultimately to get the best map for my bike.

Unfortunately, the dyno testing did not improve anything due to a problem at high RPM. On the first run, when the bike hit 12000 rpm, the limiter kicked in rather violently causing the bike to buck and lurch. It appeared as though the rev limiter on the bike was kicking in too early. It was decided to try another run with the RB bypassed using the RB bypass module. This time the bike went all the way to the redline(well a needle width under the redline which I was told is typical) before the limiter kicked in smoothly. So it looked like a faulty RB. The garage had another RB Racing module so we switched that one onto the bike and tried again but got a similar result - a limiter kicking in early, this time a little lower at 11800 rpm but just as violently.

We did a few more runs, changing to the standard map, baffle in, baffle out, resetting the RB etc but got this false limiter everytime.

If Jay had not had such a great result with his RB I would have said that it does not work with the 17 S1000RR. However in light of his success it looks like both RB modules might be faulty.

So not much gained in terms of fixing the bike but we have concluded that the RB is either faulty or does not work with some 17 RRs.

The stalling issue occurred twice on the dyno too, ust after starting and engaging first gear. The a/f ratio was high idling on both occasions and went high off the scale when power was asked for and then the stall happened.

One thing we did discover is that from 10800 revs upwards without the RB but with the full system, the bike runs incredibly rich - so rich in fact that the tuner was concerned about running the bike with this exhaust without fixing the fuelling. The power curve drops considerably at this point too which could be clearly seen by comparing the curve to other stock and mapped RRs.

The tuner suggested we use a Power Commander instead to fix the richness at high revs and recover the lost power/take advantage of the full system.

I mentioned that I had read on the Internet that the ecu on a 17 would develop a fault if the lamda sensors are disconnected ( a requirement for a PCV). So we decided to test this by disconnected both sensors and doing a dyno run. No errors were reported and the dyno run was as before, revving up to redline.

I have therefore decided to fit a PC and set it up on the dyno. If stock is available in the UK, this will be done this week and I'll report back here.
 
Last edited:
I am happy for those that have been successful in this area. However I just can't see why I'd bother....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You need to feel the standard power delivery is holding you back to make power mods, if you're that fast a rider then its worth the trouble otherwise you're better off 'investing' in improving your riding.
 
But for the road, it's fast enough for anyone in standard form... but everyone to their own... but for me, at this stage, not worth the hassle....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top