2016 QS issues between 1st / 2nd (up and down)

[cobo]

Any one else have issues with the QS between 1st and 2nd gears (both ways?).
Keep hitting neutral, even at high rpm / speed.
It's seemingly getting worse.

I am fully willing to accept it could be user error and will start being more aggressive with my shifting (all other gears are a non-issue), but thought I'd ask the question for others' experience...


Cheers

 

[Oli]

Things to check would be chain tension and clutch free play to ensure all are in spec.
Furthermore, you could disconnect/reconnect the battery terminals and ride the bike through each gear for at least 10 s using the clutch. This resets the adaptive values.

Re rider error, in my experience the throttle is particularly sensitive, so ensure the throttle is open and not closing prior to initiating the shift.

What is the mileage on the bike?

 

[Damo]

Any one else have issues with the QS between 1st and 2nd gears (both ways?).
Keep hitting neutral, even at high rpm / speed.
It's seemingly getting worse.

I am fully willing to accept it could be user error and will start being more aggressive with my shifting (all other gears are a non-issue), but thought I'd ask the question for others' experience...


Cheers

I have same model with the same problem. I changed it to race shift and still not 100 % but 80% better.


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[FreudianSlip]

I had exactly the same problems on my 2015. BMW had it back a few times and adjusted various bits. Taking the slack out of the clutch cable had a good improvement but it didn't cure it 100%. The thing that did cure it, was fitting some HP levers. I'm not saying the levers made the difference, but in fitting them, I probably found & fixed the problem accidentally.

 

[Steadynow]

electrical gremlin maybe. I had full unit replaced under warranty due to random working / not working issue that came on suddenly around year 2 of ownership. Now back to 100% every shift. A lightfoot is all you need

 

[Huge]

That's annoying Cobo. QS up to 2nd is useful for hard straight line acceleration.

Don't press too hard, something sounds out of kilter.

FYI, on the road, I never blip down to 1st, it feels like it's stressing the bike too much (mechanically). Also, for me, the clutch is important in controlling the bike at low speeds, and on the rare occasion I have blipped down to 1, the bike feels momentarily unstable.

On track (my regular is Brands Indy) 1st doesn't come into it for me, although probably different if you're racing. Any of you track-heads use 1st gear much?

 

[Felix]

This is why I don't wear motorcycle boots as bad as it is.
I have the EXACT same problem when I wear boots the quickshifter won't work as your explaining. When I wear other forms of shoes it works with no problem.

 

[Huge]

Many bends are first gear bends in racing buddy.

Interesting. Do you do Brands? If so which corners do you do in first? I've tried Druids in 1st but it sounds like the engine is gonna hop out of the frame and give me a slap...
Do you fettle the engine yourself?

ps. Well said to our dutch friend...

 

[cobo]

AFAIK chain tension is within specs, but how sensitive is the QS and chain tension? I need to get one of those chain alignment checking rod tool things now I think of it...

I recently fitted the HP levers, but issue was existing with the factory levers (no worse, no better) - microswitches working fine btw, cruise control is working fine and QS in other gears is almost flawless. I also try to avoid using the QS if rpm is less than ~4000rpm.
Clutch cable is good, I have ~1-2mm free play, when cold, at the lever pivot point which I believe is within specs? Also approximately matches what the OEM lever had and it recently has its annual service.
When the bike is hot however, the free play is quite a lot more...roughly 5mm or more...???

Bike has ~9000km (~5600 miles).

Re force required; It was a bit of a learning curve, being first bike with QS, but I've found I have to 'push' the shifter with a bit of force, rather than tap it like I would on an older bike if I was doing a clutchless shift for example.
1st to 2nd, and vice versa, definitely needs a stronger input, more than the other gears, which I put down to things I no nothing about! gearbox design/arrangement, something to do with protecting from hitting neutral accidentally, and so on...but I'm hitting too many neutrals and in some scary moments which prompted this thread.

I might have a go at resetting the QS on a paddock stand like mentioned and see how that goes. Failing that it might be best to take into BMW and get them to have a looksee. Hard to replicate though so I can see where that visit will likely head

 

[cobo]

Might be a safe bet yeah, get it in the books at the very least.

The higher gears (4,5,6) the QS is so easy and soft to use, but the lower gears the QS is a bit rougher and need more force to work. Is that the same as everyone else?

 

[Oli]

Might be a safe bet yeah, get it in the books at the very least.

The higher gears (4,5,6) the QS is so easy and soft to use, but the lower gears the QS is a bit rougher and need more force to work. Is that the same as everyone else?

To me this sounds like the adaptive values seeing as the QS works well consistently in the higher gears.
If your dealer is local I?d take it over to them as Jay says.

It?s important to note that the shift quality going from 1st to 2nd is always more ?agricultural? than in the higher gears as requires a longer cut to the fuelling in order to shift through neutral.
It?s also to be expected that the lever offers greater resistance when using a QS then doing a manual shift. This is important to allow some pre-load in order to prevent false neutrals/botched shifts

 

[bananaman]

Never use 1st unless it's pulling away, mind you my gearing changes circuit to circuit for that reason. It can be much too lively in 1st when on the cusp of power in 2nd is a smoother drive out of a tight turn.
Throttle open for changing up and bang shut for changing down.

@ Felix.... you really must get the adjustment right for a boot buddy, we wear them for a reason lol.

 

[Felix]

Never use 1st unless it's pulling away, mind you my gearing changes circuit to circuit for that reason. It can be much too lively in 1st when on the cusp of power in 2nd is a smoother drive out of a tight turn.
Throttle open for changing up and bang shut for changing down.

@ Felix.... you really must get the adjustment right for a boot buddy, we wear them for a reason lol.

I think the adjustment is correct, I think it's just a factor of wearing the boots in. I'll wear them for work soon

 

[cobo]

Thanks all, really.

I'll try to get it in to the local Motorrad dealer when I can and go from there.
Was out on the old old girl (ZXR250) today so couldn't get another "test ride" in [emoji6]
Those bikes are so different jeez


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