2015 gearing, anyone changed theirs ?

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reducing front teeth will keep wheelbase longer, less wheelie prone, more teeth at rear will reduce wheelbase, more likely to wheelie. (+ front sprocket is cheaper lol )
 
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It lowers the gearing, -1 on the front = around +2.5 on the back

I went with -1 (16) front and -1 (44) rear so it lowers the gearing overall, if i want to go further, I have a 46 rear as well.

I see you went for the -1 F & +1 R ...how did you find it?
 
i know shortening the wheel base useually makes a bike tip in better but didnt bmw deliberately lengthen the wheel base by fitting a longer chain and this is why the 15's tip in better?
 
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Geometry

The 2015 model features different chassis geometry (steering head angle, swingarm pivot point etc) which affects handling. Shortening the wheelbase makes the bike particularly lively and a bit more of a handful on track.
 
So am i correct in assuming that the 2010 model with ABS would read speed from the ABS ring then? Im thinking of going up 1 or 2 on the rear but would rather have the speedo reading correctly. In the past on other bikes ive used a speedo healer.
 
I went up 2 teeth on the rear and did not make more twitchy or wheely any more than std and unless used in slick mode don't think will have any effect as the electrics cut in as much or as little as the settings that I have the electronics in, I raised the rear sprocket as think that putting the chain round a smaller front sprocket puts a little to much strain on it and as had been said else where the wheel and chain are already a long way back.
There are not a lot of places where we ever get them flat out in top but think the BM after my GSXR felt like it was missing abit of mid range drive so going up 2 teeth has gone some way to sorting that, my k5 did have a full system, ignition advancer, filter, p/commander and some air box mods and was well set up.

Dean
 

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