2015 hard suspension feeling

[B33fys]

Hi guys,

started taking my bike out again, but the suspension feels really hard and bumpy, anyone else experience the same thing? Feels almost like it would chuck me off.

im not sure if playing about with the DDC would help, I've went in the settings and configured it but there's also a "calibrate" option and when I select it, it comes up saying "fail"? Lol

cheers.

 

[soofsayer]

Hi. The calibration is for when you have made changes to the preload and need the bike to readjust the ddc. Its in the manual, from memory you need to be off the bike with it on its side stand, engine running. You shouldn't need to mess with recalibration unless you have made changes.

If you change your ddc settings to the max minus and see how soft it is (you should be able to push the front down when stationary on the bike with the engine running). If it is still hard then it could need a dealer visit.

 

[GixxerChuck]

If it refuses to calibrate it needs a software update. Changes don't fully "take" until you calibrate after adjusting.


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[B33fys]

Thanks guys. So I only need to recalibrate if I mess around with preload? Preload meaning actually adjust with spanners / tools?

So when I adjust the ddc settings on the dash and save them, it should have an effect on how the suspension responds eg softer or harder?

Thanks

 

[soofsayer]

Thanks guys. So I only need to recalibrate if I mess around with preload? Preload meaning actually adjust with spanners / tools?

So when I adjust the ddc settings on the dash and save them, it should have an effect on how the suspension responds eg softer or harder?

Thanks

That is correct. + on the ddc will firm it up and vice versa. You can also have different ddc settings saved in different modes so it can be changed by changing modes on the fly instead of having to go through the menus each time. Hope that makes sense.

 

[Thefridge1980]

What mode did you have it in? Race kicks me out of the seat,, sport is better suited for road.. Standard settings wise

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[fast_ryan]

DDC Suspension

You may find the following thread useful:

https://s1000rrforum.co.uk/showthread.php?6369-2015-ddc-settings

 

[fast_ryan]

DDC Calibration

Calibration is required whenever adjustments to preload are made which result in ride height changes. The calibration is required so the DDC system can take into account these changes so it can accurately calculate suspension travel and adjust accordingly. Follow Chapter 5, pp. 77-78 of the rider's manual for simple instructions on how to recalibrate the system.

 

[B33fys]

What mode did you have it in? Race kicks me out of the seat,, sport is better suited for road.. Standard settings wise

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Hey dude, I've always got it in slick usually, or race. Might start putting in sport tho. I'm assuming between the modes the suspension behaves different?

 

[B33fys]

Re: DDC Calibration

Calibration is required whenever adjustments to preload are made which result in ride height changes. The calibration is required so the DDC system can take into account these changes so it can accurately calculate suspension travel and adjust accordingly. Follow Chapter 5, pp. 77-78 of the rider's manual for simple instructions on how to recalibrate the system.

Cheers dude, I'll also take a look at the thread too. I trust with regards to all modes the suspension will also behave differently? Last question, I don't use "user" mode but this might be the best option for me, could I have it set to sport or race mode for example and still have the bike wheelie? Or can you only wheelie in slick? Maybe I should just study the riders Manual but just fine to have quick response too. I will also study the manual

 

[RRoss]

Have a look at this
https://medium.com/armins-blog/2015-bmw-s1000rr-understanding-user-mode-1a9016e7c430#.bn6i6z6a4

 

[Kennybush]

That article says it allows surprisingly big wheelies in race mode on the gen 3 models.

Do you guys agree, as mine only feels like it comes up a few inches, before feeling a quite aggressive drop in power to bring it back down.

One of the very few things I've not gelled with, yet. I find when going over crests where I would normally let a bike wheely and drift back down, it tends to slam front down quite hard

 

[Billo01]

Yeh I get the same too, over a crest the front can come up on the gas and then abruptly drop down with TC light flashing away pitching me forward and almost out the seat. Would this be reduced by limiting the level TC interference?

 

[Kennybush]

Yeh I get the same too, over a crest the front can come up on the gas and then abruptly drop down with TC light flashing away pitching me forward and almost out the seat. Would this be reduced by limiting the level TC interference?

I think part of it might be me rolling off slightly, without thinking about it, at the same time as the bike cuts the power

 

[RacersEdge]

It took me a while to get used to it definitely, but even sport allows decent wheelies, and race certainly so. I find it's very sensitive to your seating/riding position, but get it right and it'll come up and stay up...at least for long enough!

 

[B33fys]

Cheers lads, yeah I can relate to the power cut when front is up in sport / race. Reason I run slick is so I can have the front right up and keep it up, it's just so fun and so easy to do with that power at ur wrist lol

 

[Westy]

It took me a while to get used to it definitely, but even sport allows decent wheelies, and race certainly so. I find it's very sensitive to your seating/riding position, but get it right and it'll come up and stay up...at least for long enough!

Are we riding the same bike? 2016?

WOT 2/3 in Race mode the wheel barely comes up (maybe a foot) even trying it's just instant acceleration forward. Keeping it pinned and it doesn't lurch

Sport mode means it comes up about half an inch Before stopping the wheelie. Only over a crest and descent can I keep any wheel motion up.

 

[B33fys]

Yeah I have to agree, sport and race mode allows it to come up, like a tiny bit. User mode with DTC in slick mode seems to be the way to go for me with DDC set to race makes for a more comfy ride now. Awesome!

 

[mibridger]

I use slick on the track (with slicks) but for the road I use user mode, the suspension settings in slick or race mode are too hard for me on the road, so I set the engine to slick and the suspension/braking to sport, then you can fine tune the suspension to suit.

If you want big wheelies, just turn the DTC off

 

[RacersEdge]

Are we riding the same bike? 2016?

WOT 2/3 in Race mode the wheel barely comes up (maybe a foot) even trying it's just instant acceleration forward. Keeping it pinned and it doesn't lurch

Sport mode means it comes up about half an inch Before stopping the wheelie. Only over a crest and descent can I keep any wheel motion up.

Westy - Absolutely. the Key I think is not to be too abrupt with the throttle (not that I'm an electronics expert or riding god by any means), which I think causes the electronics to jump in and cut power very quickly. Are you clutching up or just bringing it up on the power? In second gear just sit back a bit from your usual riding position and roll it on. As the power comes in as revs rise just give a pull on the bars and up it comes. It'll do this in sport and race, and definitely comes right up. It wont stay up for ever because the electronics do bring it down eventually (not sure if its five seconds or what), but more than satisfying fairly vertical wheelies (depending on mode). In fact, I would go so far as to say that the anti wheelie has saved my ass on one particular cack handed experimentation, i was literally that vertical. If you just crack the throttle in first for sure the electronics will cut in quick and hold in down, but try my suggestion above and you can have some beautiful second gear overtakes on the rear (on the track of course).