Remove rear wheel gen 3

[lightning_bob]

Removing my rear wheel to get the tyre fitted.
To avoid damage to the abs ring and sensor I?m thinking very easy to just remove sensor retaining screw and then put it back afterwards, sound ok?

 

[alex]

I have had a lot of tyre changes, I have never touched the ABS ring.
Axle out
Drop wheel
Roll forwards
Take off chain
Slide back brake off (you have to release the hose from the hugger)
Roll out wheel.
Hand to tyre fitter (without the cush drive)

 

[lightning_bob]

Ok thanks

 

[stuartb]

Buy a set of captive spacers [emoji106]

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[Flyingscotsman]

deleted - post referred to front wheel - need new glasses:smile-new:

 

[lightning_bob]

Buy a set of captive spacers [emoji106]

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I have a set to fit

 

[stuartb]

I have a set to fit

In no particular order . Dummy ****, Captive Spacers, and Sliced Bread.. 3 of the greatest inventions ever.



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[MrSmooth]

Getting the rear wheel out is easier than returning it.

As Alex says - especially release the brake hose first from the mudguard, and as Stuartb says, captive spacers are your best friend when replacing the rear wheel. Then I push the rear brake piston hard against the rear disk to give me more space with the rear pads floating around in the caliper as I am taking the wheel off..

When refitting the rear wheel, I've resigned myself to each time by spending half an hour working out how the brake pads fit in their caliper. Then I remove the pads by removing the locking pin and drive the centre hole pin towards the wheel - might need a tap with some float and a hammer. Make sure you photograph the pad retaining plate in the caliper so you know which way it goes as it always drops out. It can get a little confusing.

This next bit benefits from two pairs of hands - Remove captive spacers, insert cush drive, insert rear wheel and push it as far forward as you can with the caliper balancing inside the wheel ready to go onto its guide. Insert brake caliper over the guides and slide the pads over the disk before pulling back the wheel towards the rear of the bike having already inserted (captive) spacers inside the swing arm.

Slide in the freshly greased wheel shaft and then when it emerges on the other side, add a tiny smear of copper grease to the thread of the centre bolt, replace the 34mm nut on the bolt and gently pinch the nut up to the surface of the adjuster, we're yet to adjust the chain so not too tight!

Move rear pads into position, this is where studying how the caliper works really helps as there is a "shelf" on each side for the front end of the pads to sit on either side of the disk, and slide the retaining bolt through the caliper and pads from the wheel side and replace the locking pin clip on the bolt which went through those pads.

Put the bike on its side stand. Tighten the chain on the side stand. Chain tension is 45-50mm of movement when the bike is on the side stand - check wheel alignment on both sides of the chain tensioner. Tighten the 34mm wheel nut to 100Nm

I always lose skin from my hands, put loads of money in the swear tin and then decide that I will get the tyre guy to do it for me next time.

 

[MrSmooth]

Getting the rear wheel out is easier than returning it.

As Alex says - especially release the brake hose first from the mudguard, and as Stuartb says, captive spacers are your best friend when replacing the rear wheel. Then I push the rear brake piston hard against the rear disk to give me more space with the rear pads floating around in the caliper as I am taking the wheel off..

When refitting the rear wheel, I've resigned myself to each time by spending half an hour working out how the brake pads fit in their caliper. Then I remove the pads by removing the locking pin and drive the centre hole pin towards the wheel - might need a tap with some float and a hammer. Make sure you photograph the pad retaining plate in the caliper so you know which way it goes as it always drops out. It can get a little confusing.

This next bit benefits from two pairs of hands - Remove captive spacers, insert cush drive, insert rear wheel and push it as far forward as you can with the caliper balancing inside the wheel ready to go onto its guide. Insert brake caliper over the guides and slide the pads over the disk before pulling back the wheel towards the rear of the bike having already inserted (captive) spacers inside the swing arm.

Slide in the freshly greased wheel shaft and then when it emerges on the other side, add a tiny smear of copper grease to the thread of the centre bolt, replace the 34mm nut on the bolt and gently pinch the nut up to the surface of the adjuster, we're yet to adjust the chain so not too tight!

Move rear pads into position, this is where studying how the caliper works really helps as there is a "shelf" on each side for the front end of the pads to sit on either side of the disk, and slide the retaining bolt through the caliper and pads from the wheel side and replace the locking pin clip on the bolt which went through those pads.

Put the bike on its side stand. Tighten the chain on the side stand. Chain tension is 45-50mm of movement when the bike is on the side stand - check wheel alignment on both sides of the chain tensioner. Tighten the 34mm wheel nut to 100Nm

I always lose skin from my hands, put loads of money in the swear tin and then decide that I will get the tyre guy to do it for me next time.

 

[mike g]

I have captive spacers which help and obviously bike is on paddock stand, agree pushing the pads apart helps, but only takes a couple of minutes to do it all, I sit behind and use my foot or a bar to lift the wheel up and then pop the spindle in, chain adjustment isn't changed from where it was

 

[scooby]

you're making it far more complicated than it is. Alex sums it up just right.

if you're removing rear wheel often, i'd suggest chamfering the rear pads, but if it's just once in a while i wouldn't bother

 

[alex]

A plank of wood about ~10-15mm thick under the wheel helps with getting it back on.

 

[bananaman]

AAs Alex commented... Old cupboard door placed as shown before removal, when refitting the wheel will be in the same p[lace as when removed, or, can be adjusted very easily. Can't remember the part number, used since 2010 :excitement::excitement:

 

[bananaman]

AAs Alex commented... Old cupboard door placed as shown before removal, when refitting the wheel will be in the same p[lace as when removed, or, can be adjusted very easily. Can't remember the part number, used since 2010 :excitement::excitement:

 

[lightning_bob]

Thanks all

 

[lightning_bob]

update:

removed ok, not too bad more concerned of refitting.
Refitted. piece of p**s, must have is captive spacers and they look cool too out of billet ally.
Rolled wheel in as far as can go, wiggle the caliper onto its seat while manipulating the disk into the space between the pads

 

[alex]

(Relatively) Easy when you know how!

 

[Paulie]

I have had a lot of tyre changes, I have never touched the ABS ring.
Axle out
Drop wheel
Roll forwards
Take off chain
Slide back brake off (you have to release the hose from the hugger)
Roll out wheel.
Hand to tyre fitter (without the cush drive)

Any tips for gen 4/5 Alex? I've got M chain adjusters & captive spacers to ease the pain but my first wheel change attempt was a miserable experience......

 

[alex]

Yes...well actually thanks to @bananaman.

So I was finding it to be a total sh*t to put the wheel back in on the Gen5.
Added the afore mentioned piece of wood under the wheel to allow for a calmer head.
The light bulb moment was to slide the back break in from the FRONT, and pull it backwards.
Trying to get it on from the back and push it forwards I couldn't get things lined up.

It was B-man that suggested it, made it sooooo much faster.

 

[Paulie]

Yes...well actually thanks to @bananaman.

So I was finding it to be a total sh*t to put the wheel back in on the Gen5.
Added the afore mentioned piece of wood under the wheel to allow for a calmer head.
The light bulb moment was to slide the back break in from the FRONT, and pull it backwards.
Trying to get it on from the back and push it forwards I couldn't get things lined up.

It was B-man that suggested it, made it sooooo much faster.

Many thanks, I'll keep that in mind next time.... i've also heard removing the pads from the caliper before you start saves a few quid in the swearbox?