Positive and negative impedance values Q.

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HPlogger

HPlogger

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I've removed the battery for part of the process of winter storage.

I then wondered why when reconnecting the battery there's a spark, which means something is immediately drawing current. I haven't got an alarm fitted. So must be part of the Controller Area Network electric trickery in the bike.

So I measured the impedance across the pos and neg cables and it rose up to a value of 0.520 Mega Ohms.

I just wondered if this is normal?

I have video and will attach asap.

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Leave the battery connected, I always do. I put a charger on mine each month for a couple of hours.
 
Marzy said:
Leave the battery connected, I always do. I put a charger on mine each month for a couple of hours.
Click to expand...


I have the optimate 4 charger and always connect it when I don't use the bike for more than 4 days.

How long does the battery last subjecting it to the cold in winter?

I believe battery life can be prolonged when the battery is kept away from the harsh cold.
 
Mine is also a Optimate 4. I have never heard of the cold having a detrimental effect on batteries (Unless yer in Iceland) . (Yes, you will have slow cranking going on due to the oil thickening and a tighter engine) I haven't heard of any current drain issues with the s1000, unlike my GSXR1000 with a translogic shifter the battery would go flat within 4 weeks. My Optimate say's my battery loses 0.1 of a volt in 4 weeks which is nowt to worry about.
 
Okay, how long have you had s1000rr for?

So what should the impedance be between pos & neg cables?

Video won't upload, it's too big even for photobucket.

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I have a 2011 still on original battery, it's never been charged , never charged over winter , starts first click every spring.
 
Hey dl84 so did mine until it let me down on Fri
I'd be looking at changing it if I were you or bringing a set of jump leads with you in future
Battery's generally last between 2 and 5 years
 
cheers powders I will be keeping an eye on it for sure , it's off the road now tucked up in the garage
 
The resistance that you are measuring is 'interference' from all of the connected systems. I.e the ecu and sensors and so on are connected and grounded. The meter will try and find a circuit if you ask it to albeit the 0.5 meg ohms is a circuit that would not work unless you supplied thousands of volts and would work long enough to fry everything. Basically you've asked the meter to measure the resistance of everything that it can on the bike and it tried. Depending on the type of meter used you would see a big range of fluctuation in the reading from O/L to different levels of Mohms, you may not see this and only see the one reading but will just appear as the meter 'searching' on a decent model.
 
I used a multimeter not an insulation resistance tester otherwise known as a megger! Lol.
Next test is to use a DC ammeter and measure the current draw as soon as batt is connected obviously with key out of ignition.

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Did you get that measurement with the battery connected or not? I'm not sure if i explained myself very well there but I know you wouldn't use a megger unless you wanted to break something lol.
 
The battery was removed from the bike when I checked the impedance value.

I didn't expect a spark when I reconnected the battery to run fuel preservative into the injectors for storage.
 
So an update with battery and bikes electronics.

I connected an Ammeter in series to the positive battery post and positive bike's lead, connected the bike's negative lead to the negative battery post. There was an initial surge of approximately 1.5Amps then dropped to 0A hence the initial spark. So then I put key in ignition and turned to the engine start position. Ammeter was showing current draw of 2.6Amps.

I did not start the bike with the Ammeter connected because it only works up to 10A and it could interfere with the bikes electrics.
So I took the Ammeter off and connected bike's positive lead to positive battery post.

Using Voltmeter connected to battery posts on start up (started first time like usual) dropped to 12 Volts. I allowed the bike to warm up and was getting a good steady voltage of 13.56V on tick-over. when revved to about 4000rpm meter was showing 13.64V. When the radiator fan was turning Voltage dropped to 13.44V (0.16V) on tick-over. Also with all lights on and hazards flashing only used approximately 0.15V.
 
Possibly either programming the software to trigger fan at a cooler temperature or changing the thermostatic switch to switch at cooler temp. I not sure with the s1000rr. Be cool to reprogram it but there's no need really as I've been riding all day in temperatures above 35oC and the display temp reached 104oC and never above that.

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To measure the bikes current (I) requires a DC current transformer. Then could see how many Amperes it takes to start the engine and when engine is running. Hmmm might invest in one. To be continued!

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well where i am it gets very hot in summer, stopping at the lights or traffic will get boiling hot. better be safe than sorry, would be great if it goes on at say 85
 

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