Oil filter/oil change and other liquids

[Northernsoul65]

Toga toga toga toga ! Squeeze her gazongas!


Ahhh..let's watch the clip.. one of the best comedies ever !..


https://youtu.be/7ArK_KYDeSo



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10-40 it is then!

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[stuartb]

Lol.. of course..who could resist !

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[ianbullsey]

...........ok, so we can use 10w40, does this have to be fully synthetic? (track riding only - fast group) full change every 3/4 days

 

[Northernsoul65]

...........ok, so we can use 10w40, does this have to be fully synthetic? (track riding only - fast group) full change every 3/4 days

the recommendation I mentioned from the mechanic for 10-40 was semi synthetic I think [emoji848]

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[scooby]

whe you drop your oil,it's a good idea to have a look through, gives a good indication if theres any excessive wear going on in there,you'lll always get some flake/swarf but shows any major issues going on with gearbox etc.

a tooth from your gearbox is never nice to see stuck to your sump plug,but saves money/time in the long run

 

[JamieMac]

Simply put?.put the best oil in the bike you can i.e fully synthetic, as often as you can with a new filter at the same time. Motel 300V every 3 full trackdays. Obviously if the day has been full of red flags or it was part rained off you can stretch it a little. I run rebuildable filters so i can take a good look inside plus having a black oil catch pan helps you sieve for gold.
Don?t worry so much about being 5W40 as manufacturers vary their advice per region due to winter temperatures. 5w is just thinner in winter for more protection on start up. You can go to a 10w50 for better protection of the top end during hot trackday/race conditions.

 

[ianbullsey]

Thanks for the replies [emoji106]

 

[Northernsoul65]

whe you drop your oil,it's a good idea to have a look through, gives a good indication if theres any excessive wear going on in there,you'lll always get some flake/swarf but shows any major issues going on with gearbox etc.

a tooth from your gearbox is never nice to see stuck to your sump plug,but saves money/time in the long run

thanks, much appreciated. I'm a novice to all this so any useful tips and advice is really helpful

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[Northernsoul65]

Simply put?.put the best oil in the bike you can i.e fully synthetic, as often as you can with a new filter at the same time. Motel 300V every 3 full trackdays. Obviously if the day has been full of red flags or it was part rained off you can stretch it a little. I run rebuildable filters so i can take a good look inside plus having a black oil catch pan helps you sieve for gold.
Don?t worry so much about being 5W40 as manufacturers vary their advice per region due to winter temperatures. 5w is just thinner in winter for more protection on start up. You can go to a 10w50 for better protection of the top end during hot trackday/race conditions.

thanks, much appreciated.
I've gone for the 5 - 40 motul 300v for now but good to know your take on the 10-40 (sounds like that could be good for hotter UK months - ha ha [emoji849], or a euro trip perhaps)

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[Northernsoul65]

erm...... any special tools required for filter and oil change?
and, do I need to replace sump plug or a washer etc, after changing oil?

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[fast_ryan]

Tools

No special tools required but make sure that you torque everything correctly.

 

[TheGodfather]

I bought an ex t3 d675 race bike and was told i was waisting money putting fully synth in as it was more geared towards the road market where its changed every 30k or yearly service.
Where oil and filter is changed every 2 to 3 days it has no benefits.

 

[bananaman]

erm...... any special tools required for filter and oil change?
and, do I need to replace sump plug or a washer etc, after changing oil?

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Right torx bit and a washer. May (probably will) need a filter removal tool

 

[Northernsoul65]

Re: Tools

this is what i've got - sound correct?

Oil drain plug to oil pan
M16 x 1.5
28 Nm


Oil filter to engine
Lubricate seal with engine oil
11 Nm

No special tools required but make sure that you torque everything correctly.

 

[fast_ryan]

OEM Oil Filter Wrench

If you are constantly changing OEM oil filters then the BMW tool is a cheap and worthwhile investment. The part number is 83 30 0 495 448.

 

[bmwbadboy]

whe you drop your oil,it's a good idea to have a look through, gives a good indication if theres any excessive wear going on in there,you'lll always get some flake/swarf but shows any major issues going on with gearbox etc.

a tooth from your gearbox is never nice to see stuck to your sump plug,but saves money/time in the long run

The best advise

 

[bmwbadboy]

Re: OEM Oil Filter Wrench

If you are constantly changing OEM oil filters then the BMW tool is a cheap and worthwhile investment. The part number is 83 30 0 495 448.

No

Gen2 has enough space there to use a hex socket, just buy k&n filters with a socket head

If you re itchy about k&n (no reasons to be in 2021), buy this cheap tool and use hi-flo filters

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313617415346


The rule of thumb is, never ever buy from BMW unless its a specialized took that can't be copy pasted.

 

[bmwbadboy]

Re: Tools

this is what i've got - sound correct?

Oil drain plug to oil pan
M16 x 1.5
28 Nm


Oil filter to engine
Lubricate seal with engine oil
11 Nm

Yes, worth lock wiring both plug and filter

 

[stuartb]

Not forgetting you NEED one of these life changing gadgets...

This is a great price..pick up only tho

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hydrauli...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

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[Northernsoul65]

Not forgetting you NEED one of these life changing gadgets...

This is a great price..pick up only tho

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hydrauli...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

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ah yes, you could be right.... save my back and knees! Is this yours for sale?

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