Need help in achieving '24 K66 geometry settings somewhat identical to '21 K67 M package...

[Mrider89]

Just obtained 2024 m1000rr (K66). Still have my 2021 s1000rr M sport (k67) with 20k miles.

Im so used to, and comfortable with my K 67. When trying to get comfortable on my K66, the rear felt to jacked up for my liking, The rear eccentric came 1- from factory, swingarm pivot was set to 5 dots.

I adjusted only the eccentric strut to -3 to try and get the rear a tad lower. This was to low, so went to -2. Felt good. However the front now seems a tad higher then i would like.

I realize these are 2 very different animals. Im riding canyons/ 'track like' street and have access to very nice roads, little traffic. .....Some track days.

I feel like i can corner way more confidently and agile on my K67, not sure if this is just because its the only bike ive ridden for the past 3 years with 20k miles, or the geometry is just WAY different then my K66

Should i try lowering the front yoke a tad? Or make a swingarm pivot adjustment? im 218 ibs. With gear.

Also, at first i was getting rear chatter with my K66. the K66 has a 100nm spring compared to the k 67 60 nm spring. STOCK. both bikes according to K tech website have identical front fork spring rates.

from the factory, rear preload even was a bit stiff, so i loosened it and messed around with front suspension settings and am pretty happy now.

However this K66 still feels awkward in early corner/ mid corner. I do have to step outside my comfort level a tad to achieve identical lean angle results on my K66 compared to my K67.

Im not one for setting sag, I go off of 'feel', but am open to trying anything. I know i really should just give setting sag a shot. But am often alone. I know its easier with 2 people.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and welcomed!

 

[alex]

How much do you weigh geared up?
100nm on that geometry of shock sounds wild. Are you sure about that? Were you told or have you got evidence? The bike is still sprung for an 85kg rider.

Do you have any preload in the front?
Do you have any preload in the back?
Plenty of people raise the forks to drop the front, just know that you are reducing ride height and ground clearance at lean as you experiment.
Either remove front preload, add rear preload or pull the forks up. Would be my go to.

Though going to a suspension expert will be the best time and money you can spend.

 

[Mrider89]

https://www.ktechsuspensionusa.com/part-finder?find=BMW_M1000RR_2024https://www.ktechsuspensionusa.com/part-finder?find=BMW_M1000RR_2024

Yeah that's exactly what I thought about the hundred newton-meter rear spring. That's almost double as the k67. I have probably five turns of preload in the front from stock... wouldn't lowering the yoke lower the front completely? Or would I want to keep the triple clamp in the same exact place but raise forks? That would lower it too I guess right? Initially I did add some preload in the back until I found out the spring was almost double the rate as the k67. Then I just went back to stock settings for rear. My k67 from the factory came set on three dots in terms of the swingarm pivot. I'm not sure if I should try to match that on my k66? I'm 218 lb with gear as stated in my original post. And yes I really need a professional suspension guy to help me. But advice on these forums can also achieve pretty optimal results as I've seen in the past.

 

[alex]

Raise fork == lower yoke

 

[Mrider89]

Yeah I've never raised Forks or lowered any of my bikes and haven't really given it much thought but I've seen bikes lowered with the fork tubes sticking out of the triple clamps depending on how much it's lowered. Raising Fork basically just means lowering the yoke right? LOL I feel so silly asking this.

 

[alex]

Lets roll back, in simple terms what are you looking for? It sounds like agility.
Bum up nose down is one way to achieve that.
Tyre profile another
Swingarm (chain) length.
Proload

I've not heard of anybody changing the swingarm pivot to improve it. I'd personally start with easier items.

I'd take the preload off the front entirely at I'm a similar weight fully kitted and never needed it on the OEM front.

 

[Mrider89]

Lets roll back, in simple terms what are you looking for? It sounds like agility.
Bum up nose down is one way to achieve that.
Tyre profile another
Swingarm (chain) length.
Proload

I've not heard of anybody changing the swingarm pivot to improve it. I'd personally start with easier items.

I'd take the preload off the front entirely at I'm a similar weight fully kitted and never needed it on the OEM front.

YES! Thats what i did yesterday, I took 2 turns of preload out of the front and what a difference! I think im getting closer and closer to how i want it to handle. Still some ways to go though.
Yea thats another thing is im so used to pirelli diablo supercorsa.....the '24 m1000rr came OEM with Michelin power cup 2. Not sure how much difference the change over would make?

So your around my weight with gear, 218 ibs. And you run your s1000rr with no front fork preload at all? what about rear?

 

[alex]

I had none in the front and couldn't use all the travel.
Rear was default too, honestly not sure. I replaced it all with K-Tech.

Everything is better when your suspension is setup for your weight...

 

[bmwian]

Do you have a cable tie on your front fork?

... you need to be 12-15 mm after heavy braking.

If the bike is new, the suspension will take some time to 'bed in' .... mine is finally 'communicating' at 4k miles, prior to that, i did not care for the handling!

 

[fast_ryan]

You do realise the geometry on the K66 is significantly different when compared to the K67. The swingarm is longer and the rear linkage is completely different. Bottom line is the settings you apply to a K66 in terms of preload etc will be different to that on the K67. They are very much different bikes. The stock suspension on the K66 is also utterly rubbish and is designed as a budget item which is intended to be replaced as the majority of buyers are racers.

 

[pauly]

I had a 99 R1 with uprated forks and yokes and a Ohlins rear shock when I bought a new K6 GSXR 1000 in 2006. All the magazines were raving about the K5/6 at the time, but the bloody thing kept running wide when it was pushed. I had to drop the yokes and fit a spacer on top of the rear shock to get it to turn in like my old R1. I thought that was a thing of the past, but now I'm wondering if dropping the yokes 5mm on my 22 Gen 4 would be an improvement. Or would it upset the semi active setup suspension?

 

[alex]

Nothing to stop you experimenting, just perform a DDC Calibration after changes.

 

[pauly]

Remind me how to do that, to save me trawling through the handbook.

 

[Mrider89]

You do realise the geometry on the K66 is significantly different when compared to the K67. The swingarm is longer and the rear linkage is completely different. Bottom line is the settings you apply to a K66 in terms of preload etc will be different to that on the K67. They are very much different bikes. The stock suspension on the K66 is also utterly rubbish and is designed as a budget item which is intended to be replaced as the majority of buyers are racers.

Yes! Thats exactly what ive heard, the stock suspension is rubbish, and is meant to be replaced with something good (which IMO the bike should of came with) however, yes, im going the full ohlins route regardless. Im slowly finding out that this suspension is garbage, Im going to try and lower the yoke 5mm. the problem im having is turn in on corners. Once i've gotten past the hard part of turn in (confidently) mid corner is fine, however sometimes i run wide. My biggest issue is turn in, in general. I think raising the suspension through the yoke, resulting in a lower front end will help that? I had no idea the swingarm on K66 was longer. I know the suspension is entirely different. And yes, I realize that even if you achieve whatever the ride eight and swingarm pivot, rake/trail from my K 67, its going to be different on the K66....I just needed a baseline to start somewhere, so i figured trying to match the K67 settings would be ok for a starting point. I'll be turning this into a track/road bike, mostly track, i have my 2021 s1000rr M for road w/ ddc and i LOVE it on the road. I guess ALL the US suppliers have no ohlins FGRT 232 forks in stock? however i think some have the TTX GP bm 569 rear.

I have to say,, I have Brembo GP4-MS calipers and corsa corta RR (the new one) w/ spiegler brake lines, brembo sintered pads, on my K 67, and the OEM brakes on my K66 are WAY better. The k66 blue calipers are a monoblock caliper which was nice to see. Not sure how they did it, but these full OEM brakes on the K66 are INCREDIBLE. I guess the 23 and 24 k 67 M package have them too.