Different pads?

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Loupe

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I have noticed that the front brake on my bike isn't as good as I think it should be.
When feathering, the brake seems to have a bit of play in the lever before it really bites. If I release and apply again with the same pressure it then becomes far sharper.
On one spirited ride the discs/pads were smoking when I stopped, the brakes weren't applied anywhere near the ABS wanting to kick in so I'm not quite sure why that happened as they weren't yanked on.
Im going to mention to my dealer next time im in but has anyone else experienced this, or will I try different pads?
 
OEM Front Brake Pads

I found that the OEM brake pads were very good but they do not last long especially when using them on track. You may want to check brake pad thickness to see if they are past the wear limit.
 
Thanks guys, pads look fine last time I looked but im going to mention to dealer in the spring.
I'll just sit on it and make noises till then. I'm bored already.
 
Have you taken the calipers off and checked the pistons are moving freely? Having to grab the brake twice to get it to bite sounds a bit like air in the system to me?
 
That's what I was thinking too, I'm going to leave it to the dealer to check over when it's back on the road.
Just sorned it tonight, never done that before!
 
The lever on my '12 is cr&p. Noticeably so compared to other RR's. It has been bled twice and has had new pads. The stealership said it appears to be the Master Cylinder on it's way out.

I have a Brembo RCS waiting to go on my out of warranty '12, the lads in the workshop of BMW said to go with the Brembo part not the OEM (in my situation). As yours is in warranty I would be expecting it to be replaced if they can't make the lever feel and behave properly with a re-bleed and a fresh set of full thickness pads.

Definitely replace the fluid before making rash decisions. Also, you can zip tie the brake lever to the bar (ie apply the brakes) overnight to let any air out of the master cylinder.
 
Thanks for the reply Alex, I will mention these things when at the dealers.
It's definitely not as sharp as it should be.
 
Have you asked your dealer to check the software release on your bike ?

I was underwhelmed by the brakes all year, especially on the track, but then I had new software downloaded and the brake is way better, and also the quickshifter is much better too.

Mine now has K001-15-07-510 (was K001-14-08-520).

Worth asking your dealer to check if yours is due an update.

BTW, I am running SBS sintered pads as these are my preferred brake pads.
 
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You're saying its done something with the ABS?
There are no other electrics involved in the Brakes, only hydraulics.
 
Integral ABS

The ABS system is integrally linked to the other electronics on the bike and its application varies between rider modes on the 2015 model. In Rain and Sport modes it is optimised for stability whereas in Race mode it is configured to aid deceleration for track use. In Slick mode ABS is deactivated when only the rear brake is applied. The software update improves its functionally and braking feels noticeably better.
 
OK good to know but that sounds off topic.

This from the OP is what I focussed on. Lever play and pressurisation of the system.
"When feathering, the brake seems to have a bit of play in the lever before it really bites. If I release and apply again with the same pressure it then becomes far sharper."
 
Have you asked your dealer to check the software release on your bike ?

I was underwhelmed by the brakes all year, especially on the track, but then I had new software downloaded and the brake is way better, and also the quickshifter is much better too.

Mine now has K001-15-07-510 (was K001-14-08-520).

Worth asking your dealer to check if yours is due an update.

BTW, I am running SBS sintered pads as these are my preferred brake pads.

That's good to know, thanks M.
 
Thanks for the reply Alex, I will mention these things when at the dealers.
It's definitely not as sharp as it should be.
Personally, I don't like a sharp lever (and never had one) because there is less feel. Had no problem with my 2010 and indeed now my 2015. My 2010 ended up with ebc hh because I was racing and lasted longer, 2015 with z04 (track only). The lever didn't and doesn't come back to the bar, ever, on track and could produce a 'stoppie' whenever. What do you mean by sharp?
 
I have the HP levers and if I'm 2 finger braking then the lever is hitting my glove when it really starts biting.
Pulling the lever further in it works fine (4 fingers)but there's too much play, and then not much feel for the first cm or so.
I have adjusted the span width with the dial on the lever to see if it made a difference, only difference being it was further away.
I found that it was the same with the standard levers too.
I don't grab my brakes, more a slow even pressure. They work fine once they bite, (rear wheel will lift in race mode)
but I feel they should come on a lot quicker than they do.
 
Braking System

The brakes will generally feel spongy if there is air in the system which seems a little unusual on a brand new bike. For piece of mind it may be worth just bleeding the system but before doing that check brake pad thickness and thoroughly clean the calipers and pistons. It is worth checking with your dealership that the software update has been done as once completed braking feel is much improved.
 
Re: Braking System

The brakes will generally feel spongy if there is air in the system which seems a little unusual on a brand new bike. For piece of mind it may be worth just bleeding the system but before doing that check brake pad thickness and thoroughly clean the calipers and pistons. It is worth checking with your dealership that the software update has been done as once completed braking feel is much improved.

I will mention all these points to the dealer and let them check it over.
Will get it done in the spring as I won't be testing them in this weather!
 

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