Chain life

[Huge]

Evening all.

Sorry about the dirty bike. It?s a proper workhorse and I only lube the chain.
Garage adjusted my chain a couple months ago (was slapping the swing arm). Now needs adjusting again +60mm slack, over the recommended 45-50mm.
What?s the mechanism for this happening?
I noticed some links were sticking too. Bikes done +15k miles. Don?t do any other adjustments myself.
When do I start thinking about a new chain and rear sprocket? Presume engine sprocket gets replaced too.
Cheers, Hugh

 

[soofsayer]

Ideally you change the chain and both sprockets at the same time because the sprockets wear to the existing chain wear.

I had my oe chain for 16000 miles before it needed changing (and looked after it) so you have done well to get this far in that state.

The chain loops wear away a tiny amount from the inside over time causing the chain to appear to stretch, also the sprockets wear, hence needing to regularly check and adjust.

 

[Corkgsxr]

I can actually see the tight links. Hard use but kept clean and they do 20k miles.

Get a good quality rk chain. And steel sprockets.

 

[Flyingscotsman]

It's a fairly easy DIY job to fit a new chain & front & rear spockets. I changed mine last year just after the NC500 at around 12k miles. I went for Tsubaki xrg chain & renthal sprockets. I also changed the sprocket carrier rubbers as there was too much free play- which can cause chain/sprocket wear.

 

[bmwbadboy]

It's a fairly easy DIY job to fit a new chain & front & rear spockets. I changed mine last year just after the NC500 at around 12k miles. I went for Tsubaki xrg chain & renthal sprockets. I also changed the sprocket carrier rubbers as there was too much free play- which can cause chain/sprocket wear.

How do you link the chain? What's the best kit for that?

 

[Flyingscotsman]

Good point! You need the correct riveter/breaker depending on whether chain has a hard or soft master link. The Tsubaki chain has a hard link. I ended up buying a Whale rivet tool to fix the link (expensive but quality kit).

 

[stuartb]

I done mine last year and cush drives same as Rob... chain comes with joining link/plate..use a decent joiner splitter... loads on EB for 20 to 30 quid but their piss poor quality.

If you buy something like the Whale or DID chain tools you'll be out a ton or thereabouts, they are extremely well made and will pay dividends.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

 

[fast_ryan]

Chain Tool

I generally only use D.I.D chains so I bought one of their tools. It was expensive but a worthwhile investment nonetheless. As mentioned above make sure that you buy a chain tool which is compatible with the brand of chain that you regularly use.

 

[Kennybush]

As said above, always best practice to replace both sprockets and chain as a set.

If there is tight links I would change for new, without hesitation. The results of a chain breaking could be fatal for you and the bike.

Replacing it is straight forward, so long as you have the correct style rivet tool, and sockets etc for front sprocket. You just have to be carefull not to make the joining link too tight when riveting it.

If in any doubt, any reputable bike garage won't charge much to do it for you, and will probably be cheaper than buying the tools. A Whale tool is over a hundred quid, but will last you forever, but not suitable for DID style links.

 

[Huge]

Thanks guys. Great advice (as always).
New chain and sprockets it is.
My purchasing decision will be based on the following three parameters:
1. Safety
2. Cost
3. Naughtiness

Obviously it's got to last and not fail. I am not going to benefit from a high end / racers set. Shall I go OEM or is there a reliable alternative? Nothing fancy.

Bit skint (as ever). Should I spend my time on EBAY, any good value companies you can recommend?

Shall I change the number of teeth? I've had a read through here on old threads. Bear in mind I came a whisker from getting my bike crushed by the Gendarmerie last year. So maybe a bit less top speed might be a good thing? But then again, how am I gonna keep up with Stu next time I take the RR up to Scotland? Hmmm

Recommendations welcome.

ps. Shall I get my normal high street mechanic to do it, or someone a bit more experienced with serious motorbikes?

 

[fast_ryan]

Chains

For mainly road use stick with a 525 pitch chain for longevity. Chains from the likes of Renthal, D.I.D, Tsubaki, AFAM et al are all of similar quality and cost and may be cheaper than OEM. There are loads of online sources, such as B&C Express, who are competitively priced. To get the most life from your chain in the future, make sure you regularly lube and clean it.

 

[Oli]

I would recommend the D.I.D 525 ZVM-X chain, with a SuperSprox Stealth rear sprocket and a front sprocket from any major manufacturer (they?re all steel).

Personally, I wouldn?t bother changing the gearing.

http://www.didchain.com/streetChains.html

https://www.supersprox.com/supersprox-stealth-sprockets/


- Oli

 

[2002sportevo]

Here's my chain following a thorough clean after a 2000 mile Euro Trip - that chain has now done over 12000 miles but I always clean it with Muc-Off soluble chain cleaner / brush / rag then lubricate it.

It stretched a fair bit on that trip and to be honest it looked a bit tired and dirty but a bit TLC has sorted it - will likely replace at the end of the year as a bit preventative maintenance though.....

 

[RacersEdge]

Huge don?t mess about mate if there are tight links. Mine did fail last year after 12k miles with me and the missus on. We were very lucky to stay on in busy traffic... and I got away with sliced leathers (armour saved me) but the consequences for the bike were massive. I had a new frame, wiring loom, swing arm, wheel and engine casings etc etc under ?goodwill/warranty? from BMW. Would have been cheaper for them to offer me a new bike but that?s another story.

Don?t wait when it?s something so important. As the others have said above 525 pitch will give you longevity! Good luck with your choice.

 

[IMORTAL_Indian]

If you only lube it now and again, Buy the bits and take to a local dealer. to fit.... and look after it a little more bud.. hope to catch you out and about soon.

Failing that, my made will do it for you, he lives in Crawley so not too far away...

 

[bmwbadboy]

What grease do people use on master link of DID x-ring chains?

 

[Flyingscotsman]

What grease do people use on master link of DID x-ring chains?

Usually the link comes with some grease

 

[fast_ryan]

Chains

Whenever I have bought D.I.D race chains they have come supplied in a sealed bag with plenty of grease already. I normally just count the links, fit the chain and then apply lube. It?s a pretty simple job, so long as you have the right chain tool.

 

[Huge]

Re: Chains

...It?s a pretty simple job, so long as you have the right chain tool.

...and you know WTF you're doing. Heh heh.

Thanks Everyone.

Spoken to Chas at B&C (thanks Ry), got quotes for a touch under ?260 which isn't too bad.

Now deciding whether I go with standard 17x45 or the slightly naughty 16x46. 9.5% change in speed. What do you lot reckon?
Does the speedo become even more bollocks than it currently is? (currently 10% too fast, would it then be 20% too fast? Might just put tape over the fekkin thing)

 

[fast_ryan]

Gearing

Changing gearing has no affect on the speedo.