Kinnel Alex. How?d that happen?
You should?ve mentioned it to your Scottish visitor:
?Jim?ll-Fix-It?
Alex - 2017 S1000RR - Grey/Black
- Thread starter alex
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You should?ve mentioned it to your Scottish visitor:
?Jim?ll-Fix-It?
I am guessing it didn't have any anti-seize on the thread and bonded the bolt to the bracket, came undone but snapped the plastic first.
And yeah - if only I'd gotten to it before Jimmy left
I have some plastic araldite so I guess I can have a go...but with that and stone chips...
And yeah - if only I'd gotten to it before Jimmy left
I have some plastic araldite so I guess I can have a go...but with that and stone chips...
fast_ryan
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JimmyMac
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I thought that saying was banned Hugh along with Rolfs ?can you tell what it is yet??
The stresses put on that little tab after gluing probably wouldn?t last Alex unless it had a little splint on the outsides of it, bit fiddly if a new panel is cheap enough.
Looks like I bailed just in time, lol.
JimmyMac
Not sure I have any luck.
3 of the bolts were mashed when they were installed (over torqued with red loctite) by someone else.
This one though, just couldn't survive.
- Alex
3 of the bolts were mashed when they were installed (over torqued with red loctite) by someone else.
This one though, just couldn't survive.
- Alex
Blimey Alex. The person who did that makes even ME look like a competent mechanic.
Thats after I tried to undo it, you'll have to trust me it wasn't healthy before hand.
All of them were a b**tard to undo.
- Alex
All of them were a b**tard to undo.
- Alex
Yeah thats why I mentioned it as I was sure you'd confirm it was not optimal. So thanks for doing that. [emoji106]
- Alex
- Alex
fast_ryan
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Torque Setting
For HP forged wheels the torque setting for the front brake disc bolts is 24 Nm tightened in a diagonally opposite sequence. The sensor ring bolts are 5 Nm. If you do use Loctite (which isn?t listed in the Service Manual but most use it) then only use Blue Medium compound sparingly. For other brand wheels (BST, Titax etc) it?s worth just checking the fitting instructions as the torque values may be slightly different.
For HP forged wheels the torque setting for the front brake disc bolts is 24 Nm tightened in a diagonally opposite sequence. The sensor ring bolts are 5 Nm. If you do use Loctite (which isn?t listed in the Service Manual but most use it) then only use Blue Medium compound sparingly. For other brand wheels (BST, Titax etc) it?s worth just checking the fitting instructions as the torque values may be slightly different.
Re: Torque Setting
- Alex
These are Titax...cast fitment...hmmm...not sure I have that info
- Alex
fast_ryan
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Interestingly the DLC pistons are nearly 3x the weight of OEM. They glide super smoothly. But pad/piston knock back with head shake is more of a possibility.
(Advice from HM to be cognizant of it)
- Alex
(Advice from HM to be cognizant of it)
- Alex
Ready to race.
Dunlop D212 E Rear and M Front treaded for Brands Hatch. Decided against the V02's as @Bananaman felt they may struggle for heat in the front if its cool...and it is the UK after all.
There's a few small changes.
1. Used Galfer floating front discs, because I scored the ORO's I had on when the pad failed.
2. PFC95 pads
3. Reflushed brake system w/lcf600
4. Alpha DLC brake pistons
5. Ohlins NIX30 cartridges 10.25 spring
6. Ohlins TTX GP BM468 95 spring
7. PP-Tuning Clipons
8. HP4-RACE Throttle and matching left grip 58degree roll.
9. Alpha Clutch Cable
10. New DID chain
11. 16/46 Sprockets
Now there are a couple of issues to sort out...
At some point during the work the exhaust servos got disconnected and now I have the ENGINE! warning. The DDC delete couldn't be done before the Ohlins went in. Both of these I hope to rectify at Parklane on weds. The garage I used couldn't clear Euro4 RR errors with their GS911.
Said garage were left to their own devices over the chain, I didn't supply a replacement as I didn't think what I had was dead. They told me it was, fair enough. They run 16/43 for their race bikes. So they defaulted to the chain length for that. They put in a 118 link when the gen3 came with 120. Combined with the 46t rear (which I supplied) means the wheelbase is something like 586 instead of 600-608. That wheelbase, plus the 46T, is potentially wheelie city.
I have 44T sprockets for both wheel sets as well as 45/46's so I am going to go to Brands, see what happens and the change to the 44T if I want to. If I use the 44T I can make a call on going to 43 later...
By fitting a 44T the axle will go back about 8mm, maybe more, so it will still be short. It will stretch in time as well. I am a bit narked over this. Part of the point of going to 46T was to reduce the long wheelbase a few mm whilst still being long enough to not wheelie too much. This has thrown that in the bin, for no reason other than a lack of thought about what I want not what they 'do normally'.
Fwiw they run 16/43 and just forget about 6th on UK tracks...we've 200hp after all.
Anyway, she looks mega, has new springy bits and is setup to help me in the turn with front end confidence. She'll just be a bit lively with the new throttle and the short wheelbase!
- Alex
Dunlop D212 E Rear and M Front treaded for Brands Hatch. Decided against the V02's as @Bananaman felt they may struggle for heat in the front if its cool...and it is the UK after all.
There's a few small changes.
1. Used Galfer floating front discs, because I scored the ORO's I had on when the pad failed.
2. PFC95 pads
3. Reflushed brake system w/lcf600
4. Alpha DLC brake pistons
5. Ohlins NIX30 cartridges 10.25 spring
6. Ohlins TTX GP BM468 95 spring
7. PP-Tuning Clipons
8. HP4-RACE Throttle and matching left grip 58degree roll.
9. Alpha Clutch Cable
10. New DID chain
11. 16/46 Sprockets
Now there are a couple of issues to sort out...
At some point during the work the exhaust servos got disconnected and now I have the ENGINE! warning. The DDC delete couldn't be done before the Ohlins went in. Both of these I hope to rectify at Parklane on weds. The garage I used couldn't clear Euro4 RR errors with their GS911.
Said garage were left to their own devices over the chain, I didn't supply a replacement as I didn't think what I had was dead. They told me it was, fair enough. They run 16/43 for their race bikes. So they defaulted to the chain length for that. They put in a 118 link when the gen3 came with 120. Combined with the 46t rear (which I supplied) means the wheelbase is something like 586 instead of 600-608. That wheelbase, plus the 46T, is potentially wheelie city.
I have 44T sprockets for both wheel sets as well as 45/46's so I am going to go to Brands, see what happens and the change to the 44T if I want to. If I use the 44T I can make a call on going to 43 later...
By fitting a 44T the axle will go back about 8mm, maybe more, so it will still be short. It will stretch in time as well. I am a bit narked over this. Part of the point of going to 46T was to reduce the long wheelbase a few mm whilst still being long enough to not wheelie too much. This has thrown that in the bin, for no reason other than a lack of thought about what I want not what they 'do normally'.
Fwiw they run 16/43 and just forget about 6th on UK tracks...we've 200hp after all.
Anyway, she looks mega, has new springy bits and is setup to help me in the turn with front end confidence. She'll just be a bit lively with the new throttle and the short wheelbase!
- Alex
Last edited:
Oli
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That is one superb looking and very high spec machine Alex, enjoy!
I would get 2x servo buddies, so as to remove the servo motors completely without fear of fault codes
https://www.speedycom.co.uk/shop/product.php?productid=19880&cat=905&page=1
That being said if you?re getting the RS2E flash then I would imagine they?ll deactivate the servos from the ECU side?
- Oli
I would get 2x servo buddies, so as to remove the servo motors completely without fear of fault codes
https://www.speedycom.co.uk/shop/product.php?productid=19880&cat=905&page=1
That being said if you?re getting the RS2E flash then I would imagine they?ll deactivate the servos from the ECU side?
- Oli
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