Damping setting recommendations for road.

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Airman

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gents..
(should really get this black art done professionally, but in the meantime...)
I'm heading off on a decent spin next week and was just reading up on the "do it yourself" damping settings in the book.
Everything on this bike is set to "normal" 5.
My prob is.. my back can't take a hammering, and the last time I done this trip, i ended up with enough pain killers to knock a small horse

So.. I'm about 65-70Kg, and staring at the "comfort" setting of position 3.
I'm tempted to turn the front and the rear from the stock 5.

Can someone explain, the consequences of what I am about to do, or will it just be more forgiving on the shite roads.
(no tracks involved). and will it effect any of the other setting.

Also, (part two... well 1 actually) when I set the ride height for the front, i suspect it won't move a mm !.... do I keep clocking it down until I get the 10-15mm when putting normal posture on the bars ?

In my defence.. I can strip an engine down to the shell, shocks.. nudder story :concern:

Ta.
 
IIRC I used to run my suspension set at 9 all round.

I guess 'set the ride height for the front' you mean trying to get the correct sag levels by adjusting the preload. If so yes, but I'm not sure if you will get there as you need to eat a few pies.
 
Well as the book says drop all the settings down to the comfort settings, so 3 all round (compression and rebound front and rear) then go ride, you have the tool kit under the seat to alter it further if its not enough or change it back if its too much. It takes less thann 5 mins with the tools provided to alter the settings.
As your so light Im sure you will benifit from the comfort settings. Im no expert so dont blame me if you dont like it.

Have you thought of taking the pain killers the night before your ride? if im going to do a long day I sometimes take em before I go to bed then again after breakfast in the morning, works a treat. Co-codamil are tops....

Phil
 
Get the front and rear resprung for your weight, makes a big difference, the stock springs will be a bit firm for your weight.
 
Thanks,
For interest, I put tie wraps on the front forks up against the sleeve. Gently hopped on. Ties were down 15mm when I got off. I know it's not ideal, but for now I've dropped the settings to 3.... we'll see, (unless someone screams not to)

Thanks for the vid link, I've no bodies to hand though.
Typical... leaving this on the long finger, but week after, I'll take it to get it properly set up (Springs an' all)
 
I am 70kg changed the following, which works for me.

Front
Static sag 28mm
Rider sag 29mm
Rebound 1
Compression 1

Rear
Static sag 14mm
Rider sag 30mm
Rebound 9 clicks
Compression low 3
Compression high 5
 
Airman –what I find with my 2013 S1000 set on comfort is its much more compliant on theroad. You are not altering the geometry with the damping settings (but you arewith the sag) so the bike will steer and handle almost the same. It will rideover pot holes and bumps much better but might bounce a bit if tramping on. Thebike will dive a bit more when braking and wallow in corners at speed. I setmine to comfort as the roads around me are knackered and my eyeballs don’t bounceso much now!
 
Hi
Just back from having my bike setup by Perry at HM Racing. I'm 84Kg in my kit and I found the ride too harsh for my liking. The bikes settings are listed below and the transformation is absolutely amazing and quite possibly the best VFM £100 you could spend...

Static sag before: 33mm
Revised sag after: 30mm

Rider sag before: 48mm
Revised sag after: 45mm

Comp before: 6 clicks out
Comp after: 8 clicks out

Rebound before: 6 clicks out
Rebound after: 1 click out

Rear shock static sag before: 16mm
Static sag after: 14mm

Rider sag before: 35mm
Rider sag after: 31mm

Hi speed comp before: 5 clicks out
Hi speed comp after: 10 clicks out

Low speed comp before: 6 clicks out
Low speed comp after: 8 clicks out

Rebound before: 6 clicks out
Rebound after: 4 clicks out


To put it simply, before I was looking at every pothole and drain cover to dart in between and really wasn't enjoying the ride, after the first few hundred yards I could tell the difference and then was choosing my lines without worrying about getting bounced out of the seat and wondering if i was going to end up with crushed nuts when i got home! This difference is extraordinary and i would recommend it to anyone who finds their bike too hard on the road and their bodies!!
 
Hi Dave– that’s really helpful thanks. What surprises me is the sag setting before it was adjusted. At 85K in your kit you’re not a heavyweight but the sag is obviously too much. I would have thought the sag from standard pre load would not be enough at 85Kg. The assumption most bike manufactures make is the rider is 90Kg plus with a pillion.
I need to get mine checked.
 
Oldwabbler, dont know what you have done to your font but its white on a white background!
 
Hi Oldwobbler

I went through the process with Perry, 20 mins chat before we even looked at the bike and then after that he got his tape and tools and worked his magic. The whole process about 1hr 40mins I recall with me on the bike a couple of times. Then more discussions at the end and he gave me a number of options to consider when funds allowed. The ride home was a revelation.....all for less than a hundred quid!

Dave
 
I am 70kg changed the following, which works for me.

Front
Static sag 28mm
Rider sag 29mm
Rebound 1
Compression 1

Rear
Static sag 14mm
Rider sag 30mm
Rebound 9 clicks
Compression low 3
Compression high 5

This was on a 2012
 
back yesterday after 340 odd miles home from the NW200 that didn't happen :(
huuuge difference, didn't think I'd notice it that nmuch, only 2 fuel & coffee stops. Last time I was crying for services with the pain (good choice for a crocked back, the S1000rr :)
Still doesn't like cats eyes, and shit ... the more I tried to avoid them changing lanes, managed to bump every one, so off to my local suspension guru to wind it down properly.... after I get new rubber, never feckin' ends.
 
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