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to be fair, watching the vid again, theres no reason the starter should be energising as button isn't being pressed, so that isn't the imediate issue. could well be a relay issue , try swapping them out in the main fuse box+starter circuit (where main fuse is). there must be a short/loose wire...

dash won affect it, and if the antenna wasn't working (ignition) then you would (or should art least) get the EWS fault message on the dash

sounds like the s/motor is seized or a poor connection on the starter relay system, poor batery voltage

if cutting yourself can be a pain to get it spot on, theres loads of yt vids to help show you how to do it properly,, just needs patience

it was for me, happened quite a lot on all 5 s1k's, usually on the 1st session or so, found after a recal. it was fine, i started doing a recal every time took the bike out before 1st session, seemed to help

if it's not the original dash, then yes the odo will flash to show the mileage isn't correct, but will still work fine

make sure the area is clean, also warming the rim, or the tape a bit before hand will help it stick, unless you have **** cheapp tape? bur me, gaffa tape has to be one of the bloody hardest things to get off the rims!! (well, the residue at least)

yea,some of the stuff they sell on there is interesting to say the least :)

gaffa

if it was sensor related, then the traction light would stay on.

the amount of lever release before clutch engages, can happen when you replace lever as you ususally have to loosen via the adjuster, thibk he's just sayingto check before you flip it ;)

why not count them yourself?

t6 i think, its a tiny bugger (could be t8 though...) and a pain to get the tork to sit in it properly,make sure it is though before you try to loosen it...

i's a track bike, fan will do nothing to help cooling, unless yor held in pit lane for a long time, but thats what the ignition switch is for ;)

did you get it through dazza (dh) or source 1 yourself?

the electronics on the 2024 will be a big step up from the hp4 race, from memory, the electronics on the race are rck3 based, if not exactly same , which is only (i say only with a slight tongue in cheek) 3axis, newer gen bikes or far more tunable, 6 axis etc.

depends on which tracks tbh, but a good all round combo is 16/44. with a track with a decent straight parts wise, depends what your after, if it's just general stuff, filters, consumables etc then anywhere really.

peter hickman dragged his winglets at the senior TT

i honestly wouldn't worry about the m/c ratio tbh, yes it can make a difference, but most wouldn't notice, and/or change m/c to a 19/20 anyway.

just remembered i had a coulple of front wheel slides at oulton last week, (tyre was completly ******, at least i had the sense to come in and swap it ;) ). gonna have a look at the data tonight to see if i can pick it up on there, be interesting to see whay my bike does/did electronincs wise...