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I still think people over think this, given BMW engineers do know a bit about suspension.


Sag is only to ensure the spring (front and rear) doesn?t top or bottom out and maintains the centre section of its travel during a ride.


I?m no feather weight and have no issue with the standard springs. I must admit that some of you light weights may need less stiff springs. Or just eat drink more.....


The clever bit is how settings effect the control of the suspensions movement with the damping systems.   That?s where your ability / talent and how the movement of the standard system adjustment effects handling and feel.


My advice is don?t set it up based on someone else?s advice.

Find a favourite bit of road and ride it in a mode which feels best rain/ sport / race or slick. Then alter the settings one at a time 2points from zero and repeat the ride. Repeat this in both neg and positive directions of adjustment.

You will then start feeling the effect of each change. And understand what suits you.


I was given this years ago and found it useful.



ROUTE CAUSE ANALYSIS....


REAR...


TOO MUCH REBOUND (REAR)

- Wheel tends to hop in turns with small bumps

- Wheel skips too much when braking on rippled pavement. Does not develop good braking power

- Poor rear traction when accelerating over small bumps or rippled pavement

TOO LITTLE REBOUND (REAR)

- Bike wallows when exiting corners or in long rolling dips in sweepers

- Bike feels soft or vague

- Rear pogo or chatter on corner exits, general loss of traction, and tire overheating

TOO MUCH COMPRESSION (REAR)

- Suspension is harsh over small bumps

- Very little squat - Loss of traction/sliding

- Tire overheating

TOO LITTLE COMPRESSION (REAR)

- Shock bottoms out on Medium-sized bumps

- Rear squats under acceleration

- Bike doesn't want to turn upon corner entry

FRONT...

TOO MUCH REBOUND (FRONT)

- Front end feels 'Locked Up,' Harsh Ride Quality

- After first bump, the bike skips over following ones and wants to tuck front

- Bike prone to Headshake and Tankslapping upon hard acceleration

TOO LITTLE REBOUND (FRONT)

- Bike wallows and tends to RUN WIDE EXITING turns

- Front end CHATTER, loss of Traction

- Wheel KICKS BACK on large bumps

TOO MUCH COMPRESSION (FRONT)

- Front End tends to ride high through corners

- Suspension is harsh over small bumps

- Forks never seem to bottom out, even on large hits

TOO LITTLE COMPRESSION (FRONT)

- Front end DIVES SEVERELY

- Front feels Soft or Vague

- Clunk can be heard upon bottoming

GENERAL RULES

1) Set Sag and do the preload / steering test; adjust as necessary

2) SLIGHTLY harder rear compression helps the bike to turn in faster

3) AFTER the bike does nothing bad, balance damping so both ends work together

4) If wheel bouncing & you can't feel it through the bars add rebound; if you can reduce compression

5) Problem occurs from steer-in to midpoint, adjust front-end; from mid-point to exit adjust rear

6) Bike sits too high at front takes more effort to steer; raise forks through headstock

7) Bike too low at front, it will become unstabel; lower forks through headstock

8) Swingarm too flat, bike squats, runs wide, feels too light; add ride height to rear/lengthen shock

9) Swingarm too steep, bike won't squat, poor traction, wheelspin exits; lower rear height/shorten shock

10) Bike isn't balanced; adjust until it is - REGARDLESS of initial setup adjustments; this is vital








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