Suspension and brake lever feel questions for HP4

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draz

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Hey Guys i have recently bought a HP4 and i have a couple of questions before getting on track.

1. I had the brake fluid changed due to being able to pull the lever back to the bar, this has not changed although they did get some air out of it. Is this normal as previous bikes i've had do not pull back to the ba? I know some others with a s1000rr and their brakes feel the same.

2. What base settings do people use for track, i will be running slicks and have the DTC in slick mode if that helps with settings.

Many thanks in advance,
 
Lever shouldn't go back to bar. There's still air in the system. May need the ABS purging.

- Alex
 
I had a similar issue with my HP4, was never 100% satisfied with my front brakes, I had my brakes bled at last service and it sorted out the excess lever travel.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 
I had a similar issue with my HP4, was never 100% satisfied with my front brakes, I had my brakes bled at last service and it sorted out the excess lever travel.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

Thanks for the input.
The brakes had a fluid changed recently and have had the system bled several times after with still no change. does seem strange
 
Get your suspension setup properly, i still believe the DDC leaves alot to be desired.


whilst i get there are major benefits from "manual" suspension,be it standard or after market,in my experience,when set up correctly and with the addition of the front potentiometer the DDS on the beemer is very good,certainly good enough for the average trackday joe.
 
whilst i get there are major benefits from "manual" suspension,be it standard or after market,in my experience,when set up correctly and with the addition of the front potentiometer the DDS on the beemer is very good,certainly good enough for the average trackday joe.

Have to agree here, raced on mine (3) and although I'm certainly not the quickest, it was on a par with the bitubo set up in my gen 1
 
whilst i get there are major benefits from "manual" suspension,be it standard or after market,in my experience,when set up correctly and with the addition of the front potentiometer the DDS on the beemer is very good,certainly good enough for the average trackday joe.

I'm looking forward to seeing how much difference it makes...........
 
You need the potentiometer for the DDC to be of any worth, however, I still do not rate electronics yet. Trying to work with a DDC bike that has no potentiometer up front is a pain because you can not seperate the damping functions.
 
You need the potentiometer for the DDC to be of any worth, however, I still do not rate electronics yet. Trying to work with a DDC bike that has no potentiometer up front is a pain because you can not seperate the damping functions.

I found the front ok with lighter springs, a bigger air gap and the 2D pot..........the rear was my biggest issue.
 
I could list a host of issues why you should bin the DDC, the shock is worth throwing in the bin but not everybody has the funds to uprate.
 
I could list a host of issues why you should bin the DDC, the shock is worth throwing in the bin but not everybody has the funds to uprate.


i have no doubt with your knowledge and back ground you can,my opinion comes from my hands on personal experience of it riding it for over 2 years.no issues for me,once set up,and certainly wasn't a factor in holding my talents back, theres plenty other things to choose from there ;)
 
I could list a host of issues why you should bin the DDC, the shock is worth throwing in the bin but not everybody has the funds to uprate.
What's the ball park figure if I were to
1 have the funds and
2a the ability to outride the DDC or
2b I want others to think I'm faster than I am
 
Lol, its not about outriding the DDC, it just the damping that does not work well because of the design and how they control the flow of fluid in the dampers, but I would like to think that with the redesign of the damping in the new DDC system that the damping will be superior to the older gen's as they now use conventional pistons and shims which means they can be revalved properly and should provide a plusher ride vs the older DDC which you can not revalve. Your ideal damping rates will be very relative to the spring rates fitted to the bike, something you can not really achieve with the older DDC.

No bike is inheritantly unrideable, ever. Simple Mods to the fork do work to give more compliance with the older Gen's, some riders will outride the DDC, other won't and some of that comes down to how sensitive the rider is to input because we are all different. The stock damping range on DDC equipment is very narrow.

EG: No rider can feel a difference in 1-2 clicks of damping especially with stock kit because reality the difference in damping force is negligable, yet the placebo effect is huge so they may feel they can! With aftermarket kit a pro level rider who is sensitive will feel a difference in maybe 3-4 clicks. The placebo effect of having somebody even do a basic setup with minimal changes is huge regardless of skill level.

People should ride whatever they are happy with, so long as the bike gives you the confidence to do what you want it to do as and when you need it to do it.
 
EG: No rider can feel a difference in 1-2 clicks of damping especially with stock kit because reality the difference in damping force is negligable, yet the placebo effect is huge so they may feel they can! With aftermarket kit a pro level rider who is sensitive will feel a difference in maybe 3-4 clicks. The placebo effect of having somebody even do a basic setup with minimal changes is huge regardless of skill level.

Have you seen Dave Moss' recent video on the F3 review? 1/4 turn made a lot of difference on the rebound which surprised me. Thought it would take a lot more adjustment to make any noticeable change
 
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