First experiment with race pro mode

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masho46

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Hi guys having watched the Dave moss you tube vid I decided I have to start somewhere at tinkering with the settings for road riding.So I went 9 front and 4 and 4 on the rear to see what difference if any it makes.Firstly not the best on the crap roads bumps wise about the same as in dynamic.Turn in on corners improved it drops in without much effort and holds the line better not as much diving under braking.Prior to going out I did the cable tie thing but have to say I have not set the sag as yet which I'm led to believe is the first port of call.I have took a pic of how far it is from the bottom after a spirited ride but can't seem to upload it.So I have measured it from the bottom of the cable tie there is 17 mm left I've not touched pre load as of yet just needed a starting point and then hopefully some wisdom from you guys.

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Can?t remember off hand but does the fork bottom out at 12mm? Seem to recall it doesnt quite reach the fork bottom.
 
Can?t remember off hand but does the fork bottom out at 12mm? Seem to recall it doesnt quite reach the fork bottom.
If it does then I'm way off where I need to be.Im 13 and a half kitted up surely I don't have to go down the re spring route for that weight.As I say just trying to get my head round it all and started today so any input for the next step is appreciated.K Tech are only 12 miles from me might be worth dropping in see if they have any experience on the 2020 set up yet.

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The Dave Moss settings wont work for you on UK roads, it?s way too harsh even for me at 16 stone (not ready to ride).

As Soof states, the forks have bottoming blocks so won?t reach the bottom of the stanchions.

Comparing to the DM settings, I suspect you?ll feel better with less damping in the forks, less compression at the rear and maybe a bit less rebound in the rear.

If K-Tech are really close then I?d say that is money well spent to get the standard kit setup properly for you. In my opinion you?ll probably benefit massively from a re-spring.
In my experience with the bike, Race Pro modes, when properly setup, were transformative.
 
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pointless doing anything tbh without getting sag set 1st off or you'll just be going in circles
 
pointless doing anything tbh without getting sag set 1st off or you'll just be going in circles

+1

I would even say more, pointless to do anything without installing datalogger and front+rear pots :) otherwise it will be like shooting in the dark
 
9! That is seriously stiff on the road. To put it into perspective i have recently been tinkering with my settings on track and have found 4 front 4/4 or 4 4/5 works well. I was running 7 all round and found it reluctant to turn and the rear was getting over excited over bumps. I weigh 85kg with kit, sag set and on a good day run mid pack inters.
 
9! That is seriously stiff on the road. To put it into perspective i have recently been tinkering with my settings on track and have found 4 front 4/4 or 4 4/5 works well. I was running 7 all round and found it reluctant to turn and the rear was getting over excited over bumps. I weigh 85kg with kit, sag set and on a good day run mid pack inters.
It's a starting point for me not being that savvy with suspension.The concern is set at 9 the cable tie left 17 mm after a good run.If I back it off to say 6 surely I'm risking it bottoming out.Or is that where pre load comes in as I say trying to get my head around it all.

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Suspension

Before you make any changes you first need to adjust preload and set sag. If you don?t you are going to be continuously chasing suspension set up and have no baseline from which to work.
 
Re: Suspension

Before you make any changes you first need to adjust preload and set sag. If you don?t you are going to be continuously chasing suspension set up and have no baseline from which to work.
Ok thank's for the info I want to take it to someone that knows what their doing.Ive been given mct as a place to go.I am going to call them see if they are up near the derby area anytime soon if not will have to try and find an alternative

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As Rys says the Sag and Preload is where to start. Adjusting anything else prior isn't going to benefit the rider as the bike isn't set for your weight. (Bikes are set for 85KG riders) and from what I have understood and read elsewhere the bikes run on the heavier side of the damping.

In very basic terms, adding preload doesn't effect the bottoming out of the spring. Adding more or less pre-load adjusts where the fork/shock sits in it's travel.

Sag and preload can be done with basic tools and a friend. The user manual does explain how it can be done in a fairly comprehensive way (Starts from page 108). And plenty of vids on youtube like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtzTyCKh5fY
 
Suspension

Ok thank's for the info I want to take it to someone that knows what their doing.

There are plenty of suspension specialists across the UK who will be able to provide you with a basic set-up service.
 
Hi
I only use my bike on track in Fast Group mid table. Took a while to get set up I put an extra turn of rear pre load and three turns pre load on forks as the Bike was bottoming out. I weight 93KG kitted settings 8/5/5 more pre load = more damping (Im told) TBH trying to find a real expert is not easy and the Dave Moss youtube vid just confused me it was bollocks from what I could tell. Good Luck and if anyone has any pearls of suspension wisdom please share in detail and dont assume we all know the jargon. Just saying
 
Hi
I only use my bike on track in Fast Group mid table. Took a while to get set up I put an extra turn of rear pre load and three turns pre load on forks as the Bike was bottoming out. I weight 93KG kitted settings 8/5/5 more pre load = more damping (Im told) TBH trying to find a real expert is not easy and the Dave Moss youtube vid just confused me it was bollocks from what I could tell. Good Luck and if anyone has any pearls of suspension wisdom please share in detail and dont assume we all know the jargon. Just saying

Most of this info i am giving learnt (by no means an expert) from my MX days and working with a couple of well known suspension specialists.

Pre-load has no effect the damping. It very simple terms it controls how much the spring is compressed while the fork is extended. Adding more or less will change the height of where the bike sits. Adding more will not make the spring stiffer.

Compression control. (Setting 8 on your set up) controls how quickly your suspension can compress. Think of compression as the control over how quick the spring is compressing. (And rebound the rate it extends back)

Ideally you do not want to be compensate a fork or shock bottoming out with compression control where it starts to restrict how the suspension reacts. When you are doing this it is when you should look at going up a spring rate. (Heavier spring) With your speed and weight I would guess a heavier spring is the answer. Then you can dial back the compression to make it react quicker.

I am not sure where you live but I am taking mine to HM Racing to have it setup. https://www.hmracing.co.uk/ Or MCT is another option, both come highly recommended.
 
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